 If you're in town then come and visit us at: The Antique Connection Mall 12815 Central NE Albuquerque New Mexico, 87123 USA See More | Jewelry Design Art
| Some jewelry designers first developed their ideas on paper, thereby using material that was meant to be temporary. Because of that, we are fortunate to have any of these miniature art works remaining. They demonstrate the development from an original idea to the finished product, and lend insight into the creative process. The art work and designs on paper shown below are from the DeRosa, Haskell and Barclay companies. The first rows show actual jewelry made from each design, and the other rows show jewelry that is similar or in the same style. |
BARCLAY brooch of green enameled leaves, red enameled ladybug and clear rhinestone pave pods, 3-5/8" by 3", Barclay by Rice-Weiner Alvin and Robert Rice, Louis Mark, circa 1950, Rhode Island. This brooch comes with the BARCLAY original design art work for this brooch. It is interesting to see that the original idea was for the pods to be green enamel, but in the finished brooch leaves are green instead. The process of jewelry design is documented here. To see more jewelry design art work, click HERE. View #X23718 | BARCLAY original art work for a brooch design. | BARCLAY unsigned blue and white enameled gold tone 2-7/8" fawn pin. View #X23598 | BARCLAY original art work for a fawn brooch. |
DeROSA bouquet of violets fur clip, 2-1/2 inches. View ViewView #d18705 | De Rosa original art work design for the clip shown at right… the note at the bottom reads "violets", and the clip was indeed done in violets instead of the forget-me-nots originally illustrated. #140 | DeROSA sterling cream and green enameled floral fur clip, 2-1/2". View #d23488 | De Rosa #103 |
The real but unsigned De Rosa brooch made from the design at left. #d20435 | The De Rosa original art work design for the bird brooch shown at the right. #174 | DeROSA arrowroot floral clip. View #d21160 | De Rosa Arrowroot design art work for the clip shown at left. #146 |
BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. It’s not the brooch at the right, but it is similar. | DeROSA sterling vermeil bow fur clip with red and clear rhinestones and artificial pearls. View #d23729 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. It’s not the brooch at the right, but it is similar. | DeROSA sterling vermeil 3" bow fur clip. View #d21837 |
BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. It’s not the brooch at the right, but it is similar. | FLOWER 3-1/3" brooch in gold tone with green enameled leaves and glass ball stamen. View #Y21843 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. It’s not the brooch at the right, but it is similar. | GOLD TONE leaf with silver tone accents and clear and red rhinestone flowers, a large 4" brooch. View #Y23339 |
BARCLAY art work for a brooch, earrings and rings designs. | BARCLAY art work for a necklace design. | NECKLACE sterling vermeil clear and green rhinestones 15-1/3" necklace with 2-1/2" drops. View View #Y18972 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.
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BARCLAY art work for a brooch, earrings and rings designs. | UNSIGNED large purple and clear rhinestones brooch, 3-1/2". View #Y22107 | De Rosa design for a fur clip. | De Rosa 2-1/8" fur clip with aqua rhinestone center. View View #d19070 |
CORO green emerald-cut and clear rhinestones fur clip in gold tone, 2". View #C23602 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. This is similar to the art work at the left here. | DeROSA fur clip with aqua and clear rhinestones set in sterling vermeil. View #d19782 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.
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Clip marked only "sterling". Courtesy of Deborah Kosnett | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. | RETRO sterling vermeil and purple rhinestones brooch, 2-1/2". View #Y23610 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.
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CLEAR rhinestones 1-1/2" retro style pin set in silver tone. It also has a loop on the back so that it can be worn as a pendant. View #Y21751 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. | DeROSA sterling fur clip retro swirl with clear rhinestones, 2-5/8". View #d22405 | BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.
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BARCLAY art work for a brooch, earrings and rings designs.
| RETRO sterling vermeil brooch with purple rhinestone center, red rhinestones on each ray tip, and clear rhinestone accents. View #Y23610 | BARCLAY art work for a ring design. | BARCLAY art work for a ring design. |
De Rosa design for a fur clip. | BARCLAY art work for a ring design. | RETRO rose gold toned pin with pink and blue rhinestones, 2-1/4″. View #Y22999 | De Rosa design for a fur clip. |
BARCLAY art work for a ring design. | RETRO 14k yellow gold ring with rubies and diamonds. View Courtesy of Ann Crandall | BARCLAY art work for a ring design. | DE ROSA 2-1/3" fur clip with a large oval faceted red rhinestone center and clear rhinestone accents. This clip also came in another color, VIEW here. View #d19834 |
DEROSA retro purple rhinestone and artificial pearl brooch, 2" by 2-3/4". View #d23931 | DeRosa design art work. Marked in pencil "Done 3-13-44" #230 | RETRO aqua-blue rhinestone clip, 2-1/8". View View #Y8143 |
Jewelry Advertising Art
| Jewelry makers also used artists’ renderings of finished jewelry as advertisements in stores and magazines. The Miriam Haskell original watercolors shown here were hung in shops and distributed to buyers at department stores. Most of these are thought to have been painted by Larry Austin, an illustrator about whom little is known other than this wonderful work. |
HASKELL Hess chartreuse, burnt sienna and tan glass beads and gold tone leaves expansion bracelet, 3-1/4" front, and matching clip. See Gordon & Pamfiloff’s "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" page 130. #H26051 | HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clip, numbered "815" on back in pencil, 8" by 10". View #H26053 | HASKELL early unsigned Frank Hess design from circa 1940. This 4" dress clip is made up of chartreuse, coral and tan glass beads. View #H23939 And this HASKELL is a brooch, not a clip. View #H21112 |
HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass bead and artificial pearl dress clips, set of 2. (See "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff, page 160.) View #Y23940 | HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clips/necklace, lady in furs, written in pencil on the back #1160. #H27270 | HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass bead and artificial pearls on fabric metal coil bracelet, circa 1940, 1/2" thick each, side motif 2-1/2". (See "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff, page 160.) View #H26809 |
HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clip/necklace of pastel blue glass leaves and beads, marked in pencil on the back "930A" and "left", 8" x 10". #H27268 | Entire group of HASKELL blue glass bracelets and clips. View See Gordon & Pamfiloff’s "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" page 31. | HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell pink glass beads and leaves bracelet and clip, foil "Miriam Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10", written in pencil on the back #615. #H24366 |

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MIRIAM HASKELL jewelry designed by Frank Hess in this Larry Austin art work advertisement illustrating a coil bracelet and lariat necklace made of artificial pearls, glass beads and gold tone leaves, circa 1940. The lovely lady is wearing a coral colored dress and fur hat. Marked "#1227A" on the back of the 8" by 10" illustration board, there is also glitter on the front to highlight the jewelry. #H37723 | HASKELL Hess dress clips with glass pearls, aqua and cranberry transparent glass beads set in antiqued silver tone flowers with clear rhinestone accents, set of two pieces circa 1940, 2-1/2" each. More pieces of this set and the art work that illustrates it can be seen in Cera’s book "Jewels of Miriam Haskell" on page 90-91. These can also be seen in "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff, page 137 and the advertising art work for it on page 94. View View #H36493 | |
JEWELRY DESIGN In November 2004, Brenda, a long-time jewelry dealer and collector, wrote: My husband and I are just back from at trip to New York City. We had the opportunity to see two fabulous jewelry shows in progress at the American Folk Art Museum. Both are of fine jewelry. The first show we saw was "Seaman Schepps – A Century of New York Jewelry Design." Much of this jewelry was designed from the early 1930s to the late 1950s. He catered to a celebrity clientele from Hollywood to royalty. The jewelry was often pictured in glamorous photos in old Vogue magazines. Over and over, I saw how fine jewelry was the direct inspiration for our vintage costume jewelry, particularly in Trifari, Coro and even K.J.L. I had to keep reminding myself that what I was looking at was REAL, as I have almost line for line copies in vintage costume jewelry. I realized that my beloved Lucite jelly bellies were copied from figurals originally done in gold and rock crystal. One example is the Trifari jelly belly bird brooch, shown at right. |

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| TRIFARI “jelly belly” bird brooch in brushed gold tone with rhinestones. View #T6116 |
 | The same is true of pearl bellies, tuttie fruity (which we call fruit salad), and invisibly set stones. Many of K.J.L.’s (Kenneth J Lane’s) designs look very similar to Schepp’s jeweled menagerie. Even the stylized Hattie Carnegie figurals done with orange and green lucite saw their origination from the designs by Seaman Schepps The second show (right across the street) was "Masterpieces of American Jewelry". These fine jewels were by the best of the best – Tiffany, Cartier, etc. Tiffany did a series of enamel and diamond orchid brooches in the 1890s, and Coro mimicked them in the enamel and rhinestone orchid pins done in the 1940s, like the one shown at left. |
CORO sterling vermeil orchid brooch with purple and yellow enamel and clear rhinestones, circa 1945. View #C21466 | |
These lovely designs were shared with us courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover of "Milky Way Jewels". Which company or designer created them is still a mystery. |
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