DeRosa Jewelry & Artwork

Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

DeROSA
JEWELRY,
ART and ILLUSTRATION
1934 to the 1970s

Note: DEROSA jewelry that is available
for sale can be accessed

HERE.

Ralph DeRosa
jewelry is known for its three-dimensional design, high quality
components, and translucent enameling. Ralph DeRosa
jewelry designs tend to be floral, figural, and retro motifs,
and also from designs inspired by the precious jewelry of the era. DeRosa jewelry is not
easy to find but is certainly worth the search. Not many pieces of each
style seem to have been made. This New York City firm
made jewelry from the mid-1930’s until the 1970’s, but like many jewelry
makers, their 1940’s jewelry is the best.

Hand painted illustrations from the De
Rosa Jewelry Company were the first step in the design process. These
small pieces of art (most 5" by 7" or thereabouts) are from a collection
of over 300 illustrations we own. Several are dated in
the 1940’s, and many have hand written notes about how each piece would
be produced. They seem to have been done by several different artists,
as the painting styles and designs vary. Where possible, finished
jewelry pieces made from these or similar designs are also shown here.
Many jewelry designers never worked on paper first, but for those who
did, these illustrations are illuminating as to the thought processes
and design sense that went into the jewelry itself. After years of
collecting and selling this wonderful brand, I have found that the
majority of their pieces were signed, so beware unsigned attributions
where there is no material to substantiate them.

My thanks to the many jewelry lovers who
have shared their De Rosa jewelry, both signed and unsigned
examples. I have tried to match the actual jewelry with the closest
illustrations and advertisements I currently own, and would be glad to
received more De Rosa information to share on this page. I cannot confirm
that all the unsigned pieces are indeed de Rosa, but comparisons to the
illustrations are certainly interesting and has helped me identify several
unsigned pieces.

Note: DEROSA jewelry that is available
for sale can be accessed

HERE.

DeROSA FLORAL MOTIFS

DEROSA unsigned
2-1/2" fur clip with lavender enameled violets on a crystal circle.
View #d21154

De Rosa original art work design for the clip shown at right… the note at the bottom
reads "violets", and the clip was indeed done in violets instead of
the forget-me-nots originally illustrated. #140

DeROSA
bouquet of violets fur clip, 2-1/2 inches.
View
View View
#d18705

DeROSA matching
violet earrings.

View #d20433

DeROSA
unsigned clear rhinestone links necklace with tiny pastel
porcelain roses and matching signed clip.
View
View
View
View
#d22193

DeROSA 2-7/8"
floral basket dress clip with tiny pastel porcelain roses.
View
View #d21672

DeROSA art work design #307

DeROSA large 4-1/3" floral bouquet fur clip in pastel enamels and
rhinestones. View
#d21673

DEROSA fur clip with orange
and green enamel, clear rhinestones and artificial pearls, 3-1/2".
View #d34650

DEROSA original design art work
for a brooch or clip similar to the clip shown at left.

FLOWER enameled thistle brooch with clear and purple tiny
rhinestones, light enamel wear, 3-5/8". This is not signed and may
not be a DeRosa at all, but it is interestingly similar to the Derosa
art work shown at right.
View
View
View #Y34547

DEROSA original design
art work for a brooch.

De Rosa
#102

DeROSA sterling
cream and green enameled floral fur clip, 2-1/2".
View #d23488

De Rosa #103

De Rosa #57

De Rosa design art work #89

DeROSA purple
enameled lily 1-1/4" earrings.
View
#d21703

De Rosa design art work #90

DeROSA red roses 3-1/8" clip with enameling and rhinestones.
View
View
#d21162

DeRosa #1

DEROSA red glass bead grapes fruit fur clip with green enameled leaves
and clear rhinestone accents all set in gold tone, circa 1940, 2-3/4" by 2".
This is in excellent condition and looks a bit like a DuJay, but it’s marked
"DeRosa" on the clip back. Just gorgeous and in excellent condition.

View #d36063

DeRosa #24

DeRosa signed pink enameled flower clip with faux pearl stamen and
rhinestone accents.
View
#d20434

The De Rosa original art work design for the flower
brooch shown at the left. #202

DE ROSA huge
3-dimensional rose bud 4" fur clip with invisibly set rose colored glass,
rhinestones and faux pearl. View
View View
View #d19517

DeRosa #58

DeRosa #426

DeROSA red "carved" petals 2-3/8" floral clip with a glass opalescent center.
View
View #d21163

DeROSA 3" flower fur clip with
blue enameled petals, free-standing pink crystal stamen, and a faux pearl
center. View
View
#d20622

De Rosa #231
This illustration shows the same unsupported rhinestone flower petals like
those
are used in the flower clip shown at left.

FLORAL brooch in the
style of DeRosa or Dujay, but with no signature, 3-1/2" long. Lovely purple glass beads as stamen,
transparent green enameled leaves and clear rhinestones.
View #d20383

De Rosa
#104

DeROSA
re-enameled fur clip with rhinestones and faux pearl center, 3-3/4".
Shown in the ad at right.
View #d23570

De Rosa ad courtesy of Pat Seal.

DeROSA bleeding heart floral 3-3/4" fur clip with enameling and rhinestones.
View #d21158

De Rosa #201

DeROSA arrowroot
floral clip.
View
#d21160

De Rosa Arrowroot design art work for the clip shown at left.
#146

De Rosa design art work for the clip shown at right. #128

DEROSA sterling vermeil
aqua and clear rhinestones fur clip, 3-1/4″.
we have had this same piece as a brooch and as a fur clip.
View #d24925

DeROSA 3-7/8" floral clip with aqua rhinestones.
View
#d21161

De Rosa design art work very similar to
the clip shown at left. #130

DeROSA 4-5/8" floral fur clip in gold tone with red and clear
rhinestones. #d19809

DeROSA 146

DeROSA
sterling vermeil bouquet fur clip, 3-1/2" by 2-1/2" and stands 3/4" deep.
It has glass pearl flowers and the petal edges are accented by clear
rhinestones with rich red emerald-cut rhinestone buds.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

De Rosa #142

DeROSA red and clear
rhinestones floral pin, 2-7/8".
View #d23051

DEROSA
original design art work for jewelry. #377

DE ROSA red
and clear rhinestones 2-1/2" brooch, re-made from a fur clip
View
#d19792

De Rosa #127

De Rosa #122

DE ROSA 3 inch gold
washed sterling brooch with green glass cabochons and tiny clear
rhinestones.
View View
View
#d19201

De Rosa #175

DeROSA
fur clip
Courtesy of Tammy Hellberg

DeROSA topaz-colored and
clear rhinestones 3" three dimensional rose fur clip.
View #d21701

DeROSA sterling
4" stylized flower fur clip with green rhinestone petals.
View #d21700

De Rosa #263

DeROSA green and white enameled fur clips with multi-colored
rhinestones. View
View
View #d23551

DeROSA gold tone
large three-dimensional 4" wild rose fur clip with green rhinestone center
and faux pearl accents.
View #d22076

De Rosa #132

DE ROSA gold tone wild rose 2-5/8" fur clip with a very
three-dimensional design. #d19671
View

De Rosa #143

De Rosa
#10

DE
ROSA pink rhinestone and enameled bracelet and fur clip.
View
View
#d19062

De Rosa
#7

DeROSA FIGURALS

DeROSA face motif fur
clip made from the design shown at right, 2-11/16". It has an unfoiled
pink rhinestone face and a pastel pink, blue and topaz colored
rhinestones crown, and all in a gold tone metal setting.
View #d20623

Original art work design for the face clip shown at
left.

De Rosa unsigned
bird brooch made from the design art work at the right. The blue
glass cabochon wings are accented by clear rhinestones, and they are all
in a gold tone setting, circa 1940 #d20435

The
De Rosa original art work design for the bird brooch shown at the left.
#174

The DeRosa art work shows what looks like a fly that might detache from a
leaf brooch.

DEROSA fly clip with plique wings marked on the back DeRosa and
sterling, 1-1/3".

View

View #d37735

DEROSA enameled pheasant fur
clip with clear rhinestone accents set in silver tone, circa 1940,
4-1/3". Wonderful painted detail and the large size makes this very special.
View
View #d35732

DeROSA gold tone
poodle 2-1/4" clip with clear rhinestones.
View
#d21157

DeRosa #215

De Rosa
#17

De Rosa
artificial pearls clip.

De Rosa #151

DE ROSA very
three-dimensional enameled
3" fish fur clip. Some of the finish is missing from the tail, but this is still cheerful and lovely! View
#d19516

De Rosa #153

De Rosa #154

DeROSA RETRO

DEROSA flower
fur clip with pink center of grooved glass and clear rhinestone accents, 3-1/4"
by by 2". View
View #d37323

DEROSA swirl fur clip
with grooved aqua tips set in gold tone with clear rhinestone accents,
all set in gold washed silver, marked on the back "R. DeRosa", circa
1940, 2-1/4". The finish does show wear at close examination.
View
View #d37371

DEROSA large brooch with red,
blue and clear rhinestones set in gold tone with green enameling, 4-1/3".
View #d37320

DeRosa art work for the clip shown at right.
#99

DeROSA retro-style 3-1/3" sterling vermeil fur clip with red baguettes,
faux pearl and blue rhinestone.
View #d22511

De Rosa fur
clip

Reinad brooch which looks almost exactly like the DeRosa fur
clip shown at left.
Courtesy of Bobye Syverson

De
Rosa advertisement from 1941. Note the similarities to the two pieces at
left.

DeROSA 3" long by
2" wide fur clip matching the advertisement at left. The center 1" aqua
rhinestone is highly faceted, and this entire clip is very
three-dimensional and substantial.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

De Rosa design art work #366

UNSIGNED retro purple and clear rhinestones brooch, 3-1/2".
While this may not be a DeRosa at all, it is similar to some of their
design art work.
View #Y22107

De Rosa art work #400

De Rosa #29

De Rosa #365

Clip marked only "sterling".
Courtesy of Deborah Kosnett

DE ROSA 2-1/3"
fur clip with a large oval faceted red rhinestone center and clear
rhinestone accents. This clip also came in another color,
VIEW here.
View #d19834

De Rosa #205

De Rosa
#12

De
Rosa fur clip, identical in design to the pin back brooch shown at
right. View
#d19782

DeROSA brooch
with
both rose colored and regular gold wash, 2-3/4" long by 1-3/4" wide. This
is interesting as it shows that DeRosa made the exact same designs in both
pin backs and fur clips.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

De Rosa
#2

De Rosa
#8

De
Rosa 2-1/8" fur clip with aqua rhinestone center. View
View
#d19070

De Rosa
#9

DeRosa Retro style art work. #330

DeROSA Miscellaneous

De Rosa #533

DeRosa #306

DeROSA necklace and earrings advertisement.

DeRosa #530

DeROSA leaves
and strawberries jewelry.

DeROSA
rhinestone and enameled 3-1/8" strawberry fur clip.
View #d23233

DeROSA leaves
and strawberries jewelry.
View

De Rosa #519

DeROSA strawberry
15" necklace and earrings.
View
View
View
View
View View
View #d20199

DeROSA blue and clear rhinestones necklace.
View
View #d21250

DeRosa art work for the necklace shown at left.
#542

DEROSA sterling vermeil
and faux pearl 14-1/2" necklace and 1" earrings with rhinestone accents.
View
View #d21239

De Rosa #

DEROSA clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 15" necklace.
View
View #d23415

De Rosa #530

DEROSA unsigned
sterling clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 7" by 3/4" bracelet.
View
View
View #d23417

De Rosa #11

DEROSA sterling
and clear rhinestones 6-3/4" by 3/4" bracelet.
View
View
View #d23416

De Rosa #503

DEROSA clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 1-1/4" earrings.
View #d23418

De Rosa #8

DeROSA clear rhinestones and
faux pearls brooch with a feather motif, 1-7/8".
View #d23050

DEROSA green
rhinestone earrings with clear rhinestone accents.
View
#d22148

De Rosa #517

De Rosa #170

De Rosa #523

DE ROSA
bracelet with green enameled leaves and an aqua rhinestone with faux pearl
accents, all on a gold tone band, 7" x 1-1/3".
View
View
View
View
View #d19512

DeROSA clip with
pale aqua enameled flowers and red and clear rhinestone accents.
View
View
#d21152

De Rosa #210

DeROSA
8" by 1-7/8" antiqued gold tone bracelet with blue and red cabs.
View
View #d21702

De Rosa design art work #466

De Rosa
#28

DE
ROSA enameled and rhinestone fur clip.
View
View
#d18851

De Rosa #164

The hand written note at the bottom says, "tres en relief", meaning very
three-dimensional.

DE ROSA 1-3/4 inch clip
in antiqued gold tone with pomegranate glass beads tucked into the
petals. View
View
#d19141

DeROSA
sterling vermeil 2" by 1-1/2" fur clip with faux pearls.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman

DeRosa gold tone
petals earrings with faux pearls.
View
#d20625

De Rosa advertisement
Courtesy of Pat Seal and Cathy Gordon

DeRosa 2-1/4" fur clip with
gold tone petals and red bead center.
View
#d20624

De Rosa sterling fur clip
Courtesy of Linda Kripke

De Rosa illustration somewhat similar to Linda’s
brooch shown at left. #188

De Rosa #160

De Rosa #177

De Rosa ad
Courtesy of Pat Seal

De Rosa #180

De Rosa #193

DE
ROSA pink rhinestone fur clip.

De Rosa #397

DeROSA sterling
vermeil 3" bow fur clip. View
#d21837

DeRosa #3

1946 De Rosa advertisement
Courtesy of Pat Seal

De Rosa #159

De Rosa #113

De Rosa advertisement from Harper’s Bazaar February 1947.
Courtesy of Pat Seal

De Rosa necklace #233
De Rosa earrings #238

DeROSA sterling vermeil
fur clip with artificial pearls, 2-1/2", circa 1945.
View #d24924

De Rosa advertisement from Harper’s Bazaar 1946.
Courtesy of Pat Seal

De Rosa #232