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DeROSA
JEWELRY,
ART and ILLUSTRATION
1934 to the 1970s
Note: DEROSA jewelry that is available
for sale can be accessed
HERE.
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Ralph DeRosa
jewelry is known for its three-dimensional design, high quality
components, and translucent enameling. Ralph DeRosa
jewelry designs tend to be floral, figural, and retro motifs,
and also from designs inspired by the precious jewelry of the era. DeRosa jewelry is not
easy to find but is certainly worth the search. Not many pieces of each
style seem to have been made. This New York City firm
made jewelry from the mid-1930’s until the 1970’s, but like many jewelry
makers, their 1940’s jewelry is the best.
Hand painted illustrations from the De
Rosa Jewelry Company were the first step in the design process. These
small pieces of art (most 5" by 7" or thereabouts) are from a collection
of over 300 illustrations we own. Several are dated in
the 1940’s, and many have hand written notes about how each piece would
be produced. They seem to have been done by several different artists,
as the painting styles and designs vary. Where possible, finished
jewelry pieces made from these or similar designs are also shown here.
Many jewelry designers never worked on paper first, but for those who
did, these illustrations are illuminating as to the thought processes
and design sense that went into the jewelry itself. After years of
collecting and selling this wonderful brand, I have found that the
majority of their pieces were signed, so beware unsigned attributions
where there is no material to substantiate them.
My thanks to the many jewelry lovers who
have shared their De Rosa jewelry, both signed and unsigned
examples. I have tried to match the actual jewelry with the closest
illustrations and advertisements I currently own, and would be glad to
received more De Rosa information to share on this page. I cannot confirm
that all the unsigned pieces are indeed de Rosa, but comparisons to the
illustrations are certainly interesting and has helped me identify several
unsigned pieces.
Note: DEROSA jewelry that is available
for sale can be accessed
HERE.
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DEROSA unsigned
2-1/2" fur clip with lavender enameled violets on a crystal circle.
View #d21154 |
De Rosa original art work design for the clip shown at right… the note at the bottom
reads "violets", and the clip was indeed done in violets instead of
the forget-me-nots originally illustrated. #140 |
DeROSA
bouquet of violets fur clip, 2-1/2 inches.
View
View View
#d18705 |
DeROSA matching
violet earrings.
View #d20433 |
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DeROSA
unsigned clear rhinestone links necklace with tiny pastel
porcelain roses and matching signed clip.
View
View
View
View
#d22193 |
DeROSA 2-7/8"
floral basket dress clip with tiny pastel porcelain roses.
View
View #d21672 |
DeROSA art work design #307 |
DeROSA large 4-1/3" floral bouquet fur clip in pastel enamels and
rhinestones. View
#d21673 |
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DEROSA fur clip with orange
and green enamel, clear rhinestones and artificial pearls, 3-1/2".
View #d34650 |
DEROSA original design art work
for a brooch or clip similar to the clip shown at left. |
FLOWER enameled thistle brooch with clear and purple tiny
rhinestones, light enamel wear, 3-5/8". This is not signed and may
not be a DeRosa at all, but it is interestingly similar to the Derosa
art work shown at right.
View
View
View #Y34547 |
DEROSA original design
art work for a brooch. |
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DEROSA hand painted design art work of an aqua basket for a circle
shaped fur clip. The basket
itself is a beveled unfoiled aqua
rhinestone with beautifully enameled violet and lavender flowers and green
leaves. They are set on a clear rhinestones shelf and then into a gold tone
metal double circle with ruffles spilling over the frame. Also
shown here to the right is the original clip.
View
View #d37820
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DEROSA purple rhinestone bouquet basket in a circular fur clip, marked
"DeRosa" on the back and made in the 1940s, 3" by 2-1/4". The basket itself is a
faceted unfoiled purple rhinestone with beautifully enameled violet and lavender
flowers and green leaves spilling out of it. They are set on a clear rhinestones
shelf and then into a gold and rose gold colored metal double circle with
ruffles cascading over the frame. There is
some slight wear on the finish as often happens on DeRosa of this era, but I do
not find it distracting. Also
shown is the original design art work for this clip, shown at the left.
View
View #d37820
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DeROSA
huge pink enameled flowers brooch with green enameled leaves, clear
rhinestones, and artificial pearls, a really large size at 5-1/4".
View
View #d25205
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DEROSA original design art work for the brooch shown at the left,
hand drawn and painted circa 1940.
View #d38646
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De Rosa design art work #89 |
DeROSA purple
enameled lily 1-1/4" earrings.
View
#d21703 |
De Rosa design art work #90 |
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DeROSA red roses 3-1/8" clip with enameling and rhinestones.
View
View
#d21162
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DeRosa #1
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DEROSA red glass bead grapes fruit fur clip with green enameled leaves
and clear rhinestone accents all set in gold tone, circa 1940, 2-3/4" by 2".
This is in excellent condition and looks a bit like a DuJay, but it’s marked
"DeRosa" on the clip back. Just gorgeous and in excellent condition.
View #d36063 |
DeRosa #24
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DeRosa signed pink enameled flower clip with faux pearl stamen and
rhinestone accents.
View
#d20434 |
The De Rosa original art work design for the flower
brooch shown at the left. #202 |
DE ROSA huge
3-dimensional rose bud 4" fur clip with invisibly set rose colored glass,
rhinestones and faux pearl. View
View View
View #d19517 |
DeRosa #58 |
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DeRosa #426 |
DeROSA red "carved" petals 2-3/8" floral clip with a glass opalescent center.
View
View #d21163 |
DeROSA 3" flower fur clip with
blue enameled petals, free-standing pink crystal stamen, and a faux pearl
center. View
View
#d20622 |
De Rosa #231
This illustration shows the same unsupported rhinestone flower petals like
those
are used in the flower clip shown at left. |
DeROSA 4-5/8"
fur clip, stylized flower with red beads and red and clear rhinestones.
View
#d24359 |
DeROSA #248 |
DeROSA unsigned
6-3/4" by 1" bracelet with green enameled stems and red and clear
rhinestones.
View
View
View
#d24360 |
DeROSA #80
DeROSA #60 |
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FLORAL brooch in the
style of DeRosa or Dujay, but with no signature, 3-1/2" long. Lovely purple glass beads as stamen,
transparent green enameled leaves and clear rhinestones.
View #d20383 |
De Rosa
#104 |
DeROSA
re-enameled fur clip with rhinestones and faux pearl center, 3-3/4".
Shown in the ad at right.
View #d23570 |
De Rosa ad courtesy of Pat Seal. |
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DeROSA bleeding heart floral 3-3/4" fur clip with enameling and rhinestones.
View #d21158 |
De Rosa #201 |
DeROSA arrowroot
floral clip.
View
#d21160 |
De Rosa Arrowroot design art work for the clip shown at left.
#146
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De Rosa design art work for the clip shown at right. #128 |
DEROSA sterling vermeil
aqua and clear rhinestones fur clip, 3-1/4″.
we have had this same piece as a brooch and as a fur clip.
View #d24925 |
DeROSA 3-7/8" floral clip with aqua rhinestones.
View
#d21161 |
De Rosa design art work very similar to
the clip shown at left. #130 |
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DeROSA 4-5/8" floral fur clip in gold tone with red and clear
rhinestones. #d19809 |
DeROSA 146 |
DeROSA
sterling vermeil bouquet fur clip, 3-1/2" by 2-1/2" and stands 3/4" deep.
It has glass pearl flowers and the petal edges are accented by clear
rhinestones with rich red emerald-cut rhinestone buds.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman |
De Rosa #142 |
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DeROSA red and clear
rhinestones floral pin, 2-7/8".
View #d23051 |
DEROSA
original design art work for jewelry. #377 |
DE ROSA red
and clear rhinestones 2-1/2" brooch, re-made from a fur clip
View
#d19792 |
De Rosa #127 |
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De Rosa #122 |
DE ROSA 3 inch gold
washed sterling brooch with green glass cabochons and tiny clear
rhinestones.
View View
View
#d19201 |
De Rosa #175 |
DeROSA
fur clip
Courtesy of Tammy Hellberg |
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DeROSA topaz-colored and
clear rhinestones 3" three dimensional rose fur clip.
View #d21701 |
DeROSA sterling
4" stylized flower fur clip with green rhinestone petals.
View #d21700
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De Rosa #263 |
DeROSA green and white enameled fur clips with multi-colored
rhinestones. View
View
View #d23551 |
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DeROSA gold tone
large three-dimensional 4" wild rose fur clip with green rhinestone center
and faux pearl accents.
View #d22076 |
De Rosa #132 |
DE ROSA gold tone wild rose 2-5/8" fur clip with a very
three-dimensional design. #d19671
View |
De Rosa #143 |
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DEROSA sterling vermeil
crown brooch with red and clear rhinestones and artificial pearls, circa
1945, 2-1/4". This is signed "R DeRosa" on the back. An
illustration for a
similar DeRosa crown brooch shows how this piece would have been
fashioned, drawing the design for approval before having the brooch
made.
View #d34505 |
DEROSA
crown pin with glass pearls set in gold colored metal, marked on the back "
DeRosa, 1-1/2" by 1". It’s an easily wearable regal piece, circa 1950.
View
View The art work shown just for fun, but it is not included.
View #d41177 |
DEROSA red, blue and clear
rhinestones dress clip, a lovely patriotic piece, circa 1940, 1-5/8".
This could also have been half of a Duette style brooch/clip
combination. This is signed "R DeRosa" on the back.
View #d34366 |
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DeROSA face motif fur
clip made from the design shown at right, 2-11/16". It has an unfoiled
pink rhinestone face and a pastel pink, blue and topaz colored
rhinestones crown, and all in a gold tone metal setting.
View #d20623 |
Original art work design for the face clip shown at
left. |
De Rosa unsigned
bird brooch made from the design art work at the right. The blue
glass cabochon wings are accented by clear rhinestones, and they are all
in a gold tone setting, circa 1940 #d20435 |
The
De Rosa original art work design for the bird brooch shown at the left.
#174 |
|
The DeRosa art work shows what looks like a fly that might detache from a
leaf brooch. |
DEROSA fly clip with plique wings marked on the back DeRosa and
sterling, 1-1/3".
View
View #d37735
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DEROSA enameled pheasant fur
clip with clear rhinestone accents set in silver tone, circa 1940,
4-1/3". Wonderful painted detail and the large size makes this very special.
View
View #d35732 |
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DeROSA gold tone
poodle 2-1/4" clip with clear rhinestones.
View
#d21157 |
DeRosa #215 |
De Rosa
#17 |
De Rosa
artificial pearls clip. |
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De Rosa #151
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DEROSA large fish fur clip with translucent
orange and green enameled head and fin, red and cream enameled lips, and
glass pearls and clear rhinestone accents, 4" by 2-3/4". Circa 1940s, it is
in very good vintage condition with only some cloudy clear rhinestones. This is
really cool and unusual and shows why I collect DERosa. Beside it here is an
original design art work for a very similar piece.
View
View
#d40788 |
DEROSA gold tone fish clip
with red and green enameling, 3". Some of the finish is missing from the tail, but this is still lovely.
This is signed "R DeRosa" on the back. View
View #d19516
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De Rosa #153
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DEROSA flower
fur clip with pink center of grooved glass and clear rhinestone accents, 3-1/4"
by by 2". View
View #d37323 |
DEROSA swirl fur clip
with grooved aqua tips set in gold tone with clear rhinestone accents,
all set in gold washed silver, marked on the back "R. DeRosa", circa
1940, 2-1/4". The finish does show wear at close examination.
View
View #d37371 |
DEROSA large brooch with red,
blue and clear rhinestones set in gold tone with green enameling, 4-1/3".
View #d37320 |
DEROSA leaf fur clip with deep
red and clear rhinestones in rose and yellow gold tone setting, circa 1945, 3-5/8".
View #d33634 |
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DEROSA sterling gilt flower
brooch with single purple rhinestone, clear rhinestone accents, 3".
View #D36387 |
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DeRosa art work for the clip shown at right.
#99 |
DeROSA retro-style 3-1/3" sterling vermeil fur clip with red baguettes,
faux pearl and blue rhinestone.
View #d22511 |
De Rosa fur
clip |
Reinad brooch which looks almost exactly like the DeRosa fur
clip shown at left.
Courtesy of Bobye Syverson |
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De
Rosa advertisement from 1941. Note the similarities to the two pieces at
left. |
DeROSA 3" long by
2" wide fur clip matching the advertisement at left. The center 1" aqua
rhinestone is highly faceted, and this entire clip is very
three-dimensional and substantial.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman |
De Rosa design art work #366 |
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UNSIGNED retro purple and clear rhinestones brooch, 3-1/2".
While this may not be a DeRosa at all, it is similar to some of their
design art work.
View #Y22107 |
De Rosa art work #400 |
De Rosa #29
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De Rosa #365 |
Clip marked only "sterling".
Courtesy of Deborah Kosnett |
DE ROSA 2-1/3"
fur clip with a large oval faceted red rhinestone center and clear
rhinestone accents. This clip also came in another color,
VIEW here.
View #d19834 |
De Rosa #205 |
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De Rosa
#12 |
De
Rosa fur clip, identical in design to the pin back brooch shown at
right. View
#d19782 |
DeROSA brooch
with
both rose colored and regular gold wash, 2-3/4" long by 1-3/4" wide. This
is interesting as it shows that DeRosa made the exact same designs in both
pin backs and fur clips.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman |
De Rosa
#2 |
|
DeRosa Retro style art work. #330 |
DEROSA fur clip with deep blue,
pale yellow and clear unfoiled and foiled rhinestones set in gilt silver
metal, signed "R DeRosa" on the back, circa 1940, slight finish wear, 3"
by 2-1/4". View
#d37174 |
ART WOK #329 |
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De Rosa #533 |
DeRosa #306 |
DeROSA necklace and earrings advertisement. |
DeRosa #530 |
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DeROSA leaves
and strawberries jewelry. |
DeROSA
rhinestone and enameled 3-1/8" strawberry fur clip.
View #d23233 |
DeROSA leaves
and strawberries jewelry.
View |
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DeROSA blue and clear rhinestones necklace.
View
View #d21250 |
DeRosa art work for the necklace shown at left.
#542 |
DEROSA
sterling vermeil and glass pearl 14-1/2" necklace and 1" earrings with rhinestone accents.
View
View #d21239 |
De Rosa # |
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DEROSA clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 15" necklace.
View
View #d23415 |
De Rosa #530 |
DEROSA unsigned
sterling clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 7" by 3/4" bracelet.
View
View
View #d23417 |
De Rosa #11 |
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DEROSA sterling
and clear rhinestones 6-3/4" by 3/4" bracelet.
View
View
View #d23416 |
De Rosa #503 |
DEROSA clear
rhinestones set in silver tone 1-1/4" earrings.
View #d23418 |
De Rosa #8 |
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DeROSA clear rhinestones and
glass pearl brooch with a feather motif, 1-7/8".
View #d23050 |
DEROSA green
rhinestone earrings with clear rhinestone accents.
View
#d22148 |
De Rosa #517 |
De Rosa #170 |
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DEROSA original design art work. #271 |
DEROSA Deco clear crystal "O"
and rhinestones dress clip, 2".
View #d20629 |
DEROSA Deco green crystal "O"
and rhinestones dress clips, set of two, 2" each.
View #d24358 |
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De Rosa #523 |
DE ROSA
bracelet with green enameled leaves and an aqua rhinestone with faux pearl
accents, all on a gold tone band, 7" x 1-1/3".
View
View
View
View
View #d19512 |
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DeROSA clip with
pale aqua enameled flowers and red and clear rhinestone accents.
View
View
#d21152 |
De Rosa #210 |
DeROSA
8" by 1-7/8" antiqued gold tone bracelet with blue and red cabs.
View
View #d21702 |
De Rosa design art work #466 |
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De Rosa
#28 |
DE
ROSA enameled and rhinestone fur clip.
View
View
#d18851 |
De Rosa #164
The hand written note at the bottom says, "tres en relief", meaning
"very
three-dimensional". |
DE ROSA 1-3/4 inch clip
in antiqued gold tone with pomegranate glass beads tucked into the
petals. View
View
#d19141 |
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DeROSA
sterling vermeil 2" by 1-1/2" fur clip with faux pearls.
View
Courtesy of Christi Chapman |
DeRosa gold tone
petals earrings with faux pearls.
View
#d20625 |
De Rosa advertisement
Courtesy of Pat Seal and Cathy Gordon |
DeRosa 2-1/4" fur clip with
gold tone petals and red bead center.
View
#d20624 |
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De Rosa sterling fur clip
Courtesy of Linda Kripke |
De Rosa illustration somewhat similar to Linda’s
brooch shown at left. #188 |
De Rosa #160 |
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De Rosa #177 |
De Rosa ad
Courtesy of Pat Seal |
De Rosa #180 |
De Rosa #193 |
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DE
ROSA pink rhinestone fur clip. |
De Rosa #397 |
DeROSA sterling
vermeil 3" bow fur clip. View
#d21837 |
DeRosa #3 |
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1946 De Rosa advertisement
Courtesy of Pat Seal |
De Rosa #159 |
De Rosa #113 |
De Rosa advertisement from Harper’s Bazaar February 1947.
Courtesy of Pat Seal |
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De Rosa necklace #233
De Rosa earrings #238 |
DeROSA sterling vermeil
fur clip with artificial pearls, 2-1/2", circa 1945.
View #d24924 |
De Rosa advertisement from Harper’s Bazaar 1946.
Courtesy of Pat Seal |
De Rosa #232 |
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