Articles Archive - Page 33 of 34 - Morning Glory Jewelry & Antiques

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

“Boucher” Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Amourelle
JEWELRY

Made by
Kramer in the 1960’s, AMOURELLE jewelry looks like a cousin…
and sometimes a twin… to Miriam Haskell jewelry. That is because it was
designed for Kramer by former Haskell head designed Frank Hess. Wonderfully designed,
delicately worked, and easy to wear, it can unfortunately be very difficult to find.

AMOURELLE lush
brooch of cloudy opalescent cabochons and red rhinestones.
View #X23031

AMOURELLE
pinecones motif topaz- and honey-colored glass beads and rhinestones 17"
necklace with 4" pendant.
View View #X23033

AMOURELLE
topaz-colored rhinestones and art glass cabochon 3" pin.
View #X23034

AMOURELLE white glass beads,
yellow rhinestones and
enameled leaves with beaded dangles brooch, 3". Pieces in this set
can be seen in "Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff on page 114.
View #X312971

AMOURELLE white
glass seed bead flower brooch with green enameled leaves and yellow
rhinestone centers, circa 1965, 3-1/2". Pieces in this set can be
seen in "Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff on page 114.
View
View
View #X26796

AMOURELLE blue art glass
and rhinestones set in gold tone 2-1/2" brooch and 1-1/4" earrings,
circa 1965.
View #X2607

AMOURELLE honey-colored
glass beads brooch set as a gold tone flower.
View #X21854

AMOURELLE artificial glass pearls, clear rhinestones and gold tone
chains set. It includes 4 pieces: a necklace 15-1/2", a brooch 2" with a
5/8" loop that can attach it to the necklace, and clip back earrings 1".
This set can be worn as a separate necklace and brooch, or as a larger
necklace by attaching the brooch to the bottom of the necklace with the
decorated loop included ( see the photos). The pendant/brooch and
earrings are beautifully layered with two different styles of leaves, a
real Frank Hess 1960 masterpiece in every way, circa 1960s when he this
line with Kramer. View

View

View #X37437

The same Amourelle set taken apart so that it can be worn as a
necklace, brooch and earrings.

AMOURELLE golden pinecones
necklace with gold tone leaves and pinecones, pale yellow and topaz colored
glass beads and tan, gray and topaz rhinestones, 18-1/2" long with a 4-1/4"
two part pendant. This is a Frank Hess design from right after he left
Haskell and it is a forte effort, a real treasure of beautiful glass beads
and golden chains. View
View #X35336

AMOURELLE Austro-Hungarian
revival style pendant with amazing aqua and white enamel encasing red, blue,
purple, green and topaz colored rhinestones all set in gold tone filigree.
View
View #X35352

AMOURELLE silver artificial
pearls necklace, hinged bangle bracelet and earrings circa 1960, necklace wearable
length 15", bracelet 7" by 1", dangle earrings 2". This
is an unusual design and more rare with the inclusion of the original price
tags.
View
View
View
View #X35367

AMOURELLE brooch in orange
and green glass beads and clear rhinestones nestled into gold tone
leaves, 2-1/4". View
#X35791

AMOURELLE coral
and green glass beads set in gold tone brooch and earrings.
View #X23032

AMOURELLE brooch of topaz-colored
glass cabochon and rhinestones set in gold tone petals on a filigree back, circa 1960, 1-7/8". Designed
by Frank Hess, the former head designer for Miriam Haskell, this has the
artistic sensibility and matte gold tone finish like his Haskell
jewelry. Made by Kramer in the early 1960’s, Amourelle jewelry looks like a
cousin… and sometimes a twin… to Miriam Haskell jewelry and that is
because it was designed by Frank Hess for both makers. View
#X33239

AMOURELLE
red rhinestones brooch in japanned setting, circa 1965, 2-3/4".
View #X26795

AMOURELLE green glass bead
necklace and earrings with gorgeous swirled glass beads, knotted between
each, and tiny blue and clear rhinestones accented with artificial half
pearls, signed on earrings, necklace 24", clasp 1-1/4", earrings 1".
View #X35654

AMOURELLE clip with orange
glass beads, green enameled leaves, gold tone textured beads and filigree,
3-1/2". The Amourelle line was made by Kramer and designed by Frank Hess, former
head designer for Miriam Haskell.
View
View
View #X35271

AMOURELLE brooch, with tiny
gold tone flowers centered with bright pink rhinestones in a cross motif,
lovely detail, 2-3/4". View
#X34981

AMOURELLE Frank Hess designed
green, aqua and blue brooch and earrings set in gold tone, brooch 4-1/4"
earrings 1-1/3". The leaves are green glass seed beads and the flowers are
beads and rhinestones. View
#X35580

AMOURELLE
pinecones motif topaz- and honey-colored glass beads and rhinestones 17"
necklace with 4" pendant.
View View #X23033

View together
View

HASKELL
topaz-colored glass beads and rhinestones with gold tone chains 16"
necklace with pinecone motif clasp.
View #H22664

According to those who worked in the jewelry industry, the practice of designers using each other’s pieces as inspiration
was common, as was the "borrowing" of ideas for the use
and combinations of beads,
findings and designs. The sets shown directly above, one by Haskell and one
marked Amourelle, were designed by Frank Hess, but for
different companies at slightly different times.

AMOURELLE white and
yellow glass beads and green enameled leaves necklace and earrings.
View View
View #X20112

AMOURELLE earrings with
white glass pearls, yellow center and green enameled leaves.
View #X20091

AMOURELLE black faceted glass beads necklace and earrings by
designer Frank Hess, who had been the head designer at Miriam Haskell.
The necklace wearable length is 15" with 5 strands and it is not marked
but matches the earrings perfectly. The 1-1/4" clip back earrings only
are marked "Amourelle". Circa 1960 and in excellent condition.

View

View #X39282

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

For more information about JET and other Victorian
black jewelry we recommend the excellent book ‘Jet’ by Helen Muller
and "Whitby Jet" by Katy & Helen Muller.

"Jet" by Helen Muller

Helen Muller

VICTORIAN jet jewelry with painted portrait and floral centers.

JET JEWELRY BOOK
on Victorian Jet Jewelry
By Katy Muller & Helen Muller
available on Amazon

VICTORIAN Whitby jet
hand carved brooch and earrings with painted porcelain ovals of cherubs
and flowers, a rare set with wonderful detailing. #VHM3

JET is black fossilized wood, and is associated with
the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into
jewelry and accessories, especially in the 1800’s.

VULCANITE was an early plastic made by combining and heating India rubber
and sulphur.

HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized peat

FRENCH JET is black glass, and not truly jet at all.

VICTORIAN jet worker’s tools as shown in Helen Muller’s book "Jet". I was
surprised to see how primitive some of the actual tools were, homemade and
well used. The artistry in the best hand carved jet jewelry is amazing.

VICTORIAN jet
pen and pencil set with matching hand carved designs and Whitby Abbey, 5"
long. Sets are rare and this set is particularly lovely. The third piece is
a red pencil with the name "Whitby" on the handle.
View
View
View
View
View #V33165

VICTORIAN jet worker’s tools as shown in Helen
Muller’s book "Jet". A shop in Whitby still has an original display very
much like this showing a complete workshop and original tools from over 100
years ago.

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved brooch with a pietra dura inset of flowers. #VHM2

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved pendant with a pietra dura floral inset of daisies, forget-me-nots, a
strawberry and
green leaves. #VHM1

VICTORIAN shell
cameos set in jet brooches and earrings. #Victjetcams

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved hand brooch. #VHM6

VICTORIAN Whitby jet
hand carved segmented snake bracelet. #VHM5

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved matching brooch and earrings with delicate floral pierced and carved
design. #VHM4

VICTORIAN antique Whitby jet hand carved necklace, a very intricate
geometric design that is 18" long with a 5" front drop. Note the
intricate detail of the pierced edging and applied carved domes that would
have been hard work with the hand made tools used in that era. The masterful
and detailed hand carving in this is magnificent, and it is a
one-of-a-kind necklace. The catch is even hand carved and all original, exactly
as it should be. It is one of the very best jet necklaces I have ever seen and
it has been a joy to own all these years.

View

View

View

View

View #V31293

VICTORIAN lady wearing
elaborate necklace and earrings set. Note the wonderful necklace and
earrings that she is wearing.
View

VICTORIAN antique Whitby jet necklace that was hand carved with decorated links and
stations, a one-of-a-kind piece. The size is 20-1/2" wearable length with a 4"
front drop. Note the detail on each drop, with both carved and applied
decorative elements. It is all original and exactly as it was when newly made.
An interesting note is that this necklace was loaned by request to be in the "Antiques & Collecting Magazine"
on page 49, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called
"Black
Magic" by Anna Marie Roos, PhD.

View

View

View

View

View

View

View #V29822

VICTORIAN Whitby jet
earrings, hand carved drops with faceted applied ovals and detailed edges, jet
portion 1-1/3" and total length 1-3/4". These are rare, complete with original
Victorian fittings just as they were made circa 1880. #V33920

VICTORIAN Whitby jet earrings
with banded agate centers beautifully carved with saw-tooth edges, the jet
portion is 1-3/4" by 1". These are all original including the kidney
wires, amazing for 150-year-old earrings.
View
View #V29292

VICTORIAN Whitby jet
earrings, hand carved faceted teardrops suspended in larger open faceted open
teardrops, jet portion 1-1/3" total length 1-3/4". There is one tiny flea bite
chip at the very top of one earring, not visible except under
magnification. These are rare, complete with original Victorian fittings just as
they were made circa 1880. #V33922

VICTORIAN Whitby jet strung on elastic bracelets, matching
pair, tiny dings, 7" adjustable by 1-1/4". View
View
#V28790

Article from the
England’s
"Yorkshire Post", April 2021, announcing the Whitby Jet Museum
where many of the pieces from the Morning Glory jet jewelry collection have
a new home now. The bracelets at the left and the cameo at the right
are shown in the newspaper photo.

VICTORIAN cameo
brooch of Nyx, Goddess of the Night in "Night with her Children". Hand
carved pink shell is set in jet, circa 1860, 2-1/8" by 1-3/4".
Beautifully hand carved to
depict ‘Night’ after a relief done by Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen in
1815. She carries her twin children
Hypnos, god of sleep, and Thanatos, god of death. Her wings spread over the
earth to create the dark of night. The owl, bird of the night, is one of her
attributes. This brooch was seen in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine"
page 52, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called
Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.
View
View #V33163

VICTORIAN
unusual pressed animal horn links Prince Albert watch chain, 12" long with a bar for the
buttonhole on one end and a hook for a watch on the other. This is the
piece seen on page 121 of Helen Muller’s book "Jet".

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and
Helen Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged
to have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet
Jewellery & Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the
subject.
View #V28868

VICTORIAN Whitby jet bracelet with engraved flowers, strung on elastic
so it fits 6-1/2" to 7" arm and is 1-3/4" wide at front. #V26451

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved necklace circa 1880,
16-3/4" long with graduated disks from 1-1/8" down to 7/8". Each link is a
convex circle with saw tooth edge. Every piece including the closure is all
original. View
#V33965

VICTORIAN Whitby jet snake necklace with
a heart dangle and
graduated sized beads. It is 18" long with beads ranging from 1/3" to 2".
Snakes were often seen as the symbol of eternal love for the Victorians. See a similar version of a snake necklace on page 122 of Davidov &
Dawes "Victorian Jewelry". This same necklace was loaned to be seen in "Antiques &
Collecting Magazine" page 49, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet
jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.
View
View #V31294

VICTORIAN Whitby
jet necklace with three teardrop-shaped drops, faceted centers, 16-1/2" by
3-1/4". There is a repair on one link. A copy of a carte
de visite shows a lady wearing a necklace like this.

View

View

View
View
#V29820

VICTORIAN jet Roman style snake necklace
with segmented body, 17" long and from 1/2" down to 1/3" wide bead
body. The head is 1" by 5/8" and the heart is 5/8". See
a snake necklace in Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" on page 123.
View
View #V31839

VICTORIAN Whitby jet round
hand carved drop earrings, 5/8" beads on original kidney wires ornamented
with clear rhinestones on each. #V29116

VICTORIAN Whitby jet faceted
beads, 56" long with graduated beads from 3/4" down to 1/3".
Included with this will be a copy of a
carte de visite showing a
lovely lady wearing beads much like this strand. This is a long, rare and
versatile
length of all original beads, a really nice find. View

View
View #V32623

A lovely Victorian era lady wearing her triple strand of jet beads, similar
to the ones at the left here.

VICTORIAN jet cherub 1-7/8"
by 1-1/2" locket with photo and hair on back suspended on a 20" faceted
black glass beads chain. Raphael (Raffaello
Sanzio, 1483-1520) was a great, late Renaissance Italian artist. Raphael’s
Cherub is part of his early 1500s Sistine Chapel murals in the Vatican. Many
Victorian pieces were made with this as their inspiration, including this
one. A similar piece can be seen on page 167 of Bell’s "Collecting
Victorian Jewelry".
View
View #V29917

VICTORIAN Whitby jet with plaited hair locket, 1-1/2" by 1-1/3" locket with
1/3" loop, fittings and plaited hair inside.
View
View #V32221

VICTORIAN jet pendant with
hand painted porcelain green Tyrolean boy portrait, 2-1/2" by 1-1/4" pendant
on graduated strand of hand carved jet beads 18" necklace.
View
View
View
#V29918

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Jewelry
Copies
& Look-alikes
pieces that
have been fashioned by more than one jewelry maker

DeNICOLA blue
and green poured glass and clear rhinestone 2-1/2" brooch.
View
#X21054

MARKED ‘Depose’
so it is French.
Versions were made by Chanel, Carnegie, DeNicola and Andamodes New York, and
probably others as well.

CARNEGIE
poured glass bracelet and earrings. #C25032

DeNICOLA
blue pink and green poured glass set in gold tone 2" domed brooch.
View #X24920

POURED glass brooches.

DeNICOLA poured glass
pink and green pin, 2 3/4" wide by 2-5/16".
View #X24784

While these are not identical overall, the tiny enameled flowers are
very similar, as are the crystal elements.

DEROSA unsigned
2-1/2" fur clip with lavender enameled violets on a crystal circle.
View #d21154

MB BOUCHER crystal
circle brooch with rose and pale yellow enameled flowers, 2-1/2".
View #M27568

DEROSA
style
flower brooch with red
faceted glass beads centered with clear
rhinestones and clear rhinestone petal and leaf edges, all in a gold
plated setting, 2-3/4" by 2-1/8". An almost illegible
mark on the back of this says something like, "F_ _ RS".

View #d37300

The flower fur clip at the far right is signed "Deja", yet it looks just
like the DeRosa flower clip. Because the design art work for this clip
came from a large group of DeRosa working drawings, I suspect DeRosa
made it first and then Deja copied it.

DEROSA cupped flower fur clip with pale tan baguettes on the stem, clear rhinestones
lining the petals and leaves and enameled red tipped stamen, a bit
of red missing. It is in a gold plated setting, which has some signs of
wear upon close examination. It is signed "R DeRosa" on
the back and it was made in the 1940s, 2-7/8" by 2".

We
have in our collection the DeRosa design art work for a very similar
flower, shown

HERE, and find it interesting that they were offered by at least two
different companys, DeRosa and Deja.
View

View

View

View

View #d42737

This design was made as a dress clip, a fur clip and a brooch.

DEJA
signed flower fur clip with lovely aqua faceted glass beads, each with a
clear rhinestone in the center and each portion lined with
clear rhinestones for extra brilliance. It is all set in
gold plated sterling silver, signed
on the back "Deja", made in about 1940, 3" by 2". We have in our
collection the DeRosa design art work for a very similar
flower, shown

HERE, and find it interesting that these were offered by at least two
different companys, Deja and DeRosa.
View

View

View

View

View
View #d42397

Jewelry companies did copy jewelry designs from one another. Coro did a similar piece as well, and
their piece was patented
Coro patent 140,016
and dated January 1945. Coro was known to copy other companies
designs.

And if the three versions in the row above
here aren’t enough, here is the Coro version of this flower! >>>

COROCRAFT gold plated sterling silver cupped flower
brooch with topaz colored marquis stamen and clear rhinestone accents, signed on
the back "sterling Corocraft" with the Pegasus logo. It is large at 3" by 2" and
a marvelous piece from the 1940s. I suspect this was a copy of the DeRosa flower
clip shown

HERE.
View
View
View
View
View
View
View
#C42970

Coro patent

140,016 dated 1945,

This shows the back of these pieces.

Clips like these were also seen signed by REINAD.

DeROSA 4-5/8" floral fur clip in gold tone with red and clear
rhinestones. #d19809

UNSIGNED
4-5/8" fur clip in gold tone with green and clear rhinestones, identical to
the one at left, but this one is
unsigned. #d20825.

DEROSA floral dress clip
with cream, blue and green enamel, red glass bead centers and clear rhinestones
accents, light enamel wear, 3-5/8".
View View #d34536

GOLD TONE flower bouquet brooch with clear
rhinestones and artificial pearls, 3-5/8". This is similar to
the DeRosa at the left, but it is far less desirable. It has a
flatter look and lower quality stones, but it’s still a pretty brooch. #Y29529

Pieces as similar as these make me wonder who made the
original and who copied it!

George Jensen sterling brooch (left) and Coro sterling brooch
(right). View

BACKS

MARK

AMOURELLE
pinecones motif topaz- and honey-colored glass beads and rhinestones 17"
necklace with 4" pendant.
View View #X23033

View together
View

HASKELL
topaz-colored glass beads and rhinestones with gold tone chains 16"
necklace with pinecone motif clasp.
View #H22664

According to those who worked in the jewelry industry, the practice of designers using each other’s pieces as inspiration
was common, as was the "borrowing" of ideas for the use
and combinations of beads,
findings and designs. The sets shown directly above, one by Haskell and one
marked Amourelle, demonstrate this. In this case though, Frank Hess designed both
necklaces, but for
different companies.

HC Carnegie gold
tone with green and clear rhinestones exotic head two-pronged fur clip,
3-5/8". Both
the earrings and necklace on this clip dangle.
View #C23928

HC
Carnegie gold tone with aqua and clear rhinestones exotic head
two-pronged fur clip, 3-1/3". Both the earrings and necklace on this clip dangle.
Some finish wear present. View
#C23929

EXOTIC
unsigned lady
brooch in gold tone with red and clear rhinestones, 3-5/8".
View #Y24316

These same ladies have been seen with the REINAD mark as well.

ROSENSTEIN
portrait brooch with artificial pearls set in textured gold tone with
clear rhinestone accents.
View #X22409

FLORENZA
portrait brooch/frame. It is interesting that this is so similar to the
Rosenstein portrait brooch shown above, and that the portrait is the same
as the Haskell/Vrba brooch at the right.
View
#X21469

HASKELL/VRBA this fabulous portrait pin was made for a Broadway play
by Larry Vrba when he was the designer for Miriam Haskell Jewelry. There was more regal-looking jewelry made for the same
play, and I dream of finding other pieces.
View
View
#H10012

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

Morning Glory Antiques &
Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Jewelry
Symbols

Symbols, myths, tokens and mysteries… the things of which stories are
made. Personal adornment began when man first walked upright, and the
methods and meanings of that adornment has had a certain constancy through
the centuries. While shapes and patterns may call to mind different meanings
in various cultures, there is enough similarity to make interpreting them
add an interesting dimension to jewelry collecting.

The
ACORN
is a symbol of fertility and immortality, probably because they are the
seeds of the "mighty oak".

OAK
trees can live over 100
years, and are considered a symbol of strength and stability. The oak
tree was also the mythical home of the god of thunder, so the acorn was
thought to be a charm against lightening.

VICTORIAN locket with acorn and leaf motif, circa 1890, 1-1/2" long. View
#V23363

BAKELITE apple juice and root beer colored logs and leaves pin, circa
1940, 4-1/2".
View #B11360

STERLING acorn
1″ screw back earrings.
View #N23945

VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold
earrings, each a foil-backed closed collet set dark citrines suspending an
acorn-shaped hair pendant, 1-1/2". #V32067

AQUA cabochons, clear rhinestones
and gold tone acorns pin,3". See "Adrian Classic" by Whalton, page 22-B.
View #Y23552

VICTORIAN earrings,
moonstone shaped as acorns, 7/8". #V32052

The
BUCKLE
is a symbol of self-defense, strength and protection. It is sometimes
associated with the
GARTER, the symbol of
binding loyalty and brotherhood.

VICTORIAN 9ct buckle ring dated 1898.
View #G24203

VICTORIAN sterling hinged
bangle with floral engraving, hallmarks inside, circa 1885, 6-1/2" by 1".
(Similar piece seen in Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, 2nd Ed, page
62.)
View
View
View #V24970

VICTORIAN gold garter
pin, 1-1/4".
View #V24442

VICTORIAN Scottish silver with royal blue enameling buckle bangle, patterned
all round and hinged in four places, solid silver and very heavy with safety
chain, 7" by 3/4", buckle front 1". See a similar piece, a brooch, in Davidov &
Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" page 33.
View
View
View
View
View
#V31967

VICTORIAN silver buckle
bangle with etched design , 7" by 1".
View
View #V26083

VICTORIAN agate and sterling
silver buckle bracelet, total length 10-1/2" by 1" wide, wearable by a
7-1/2" to 9" wrist.
View
View
View
View
View
View
View
View
View #V31562

CORAL
jewelry was thought in Victorian times to
promote good health, and was often worn by young children. Coral is also
associated
with the boundless sea and longevity.

CORAL 10k
yellow gold ring with coral cameo, 1-1/8" by 1/2" front, circa
1900. A ring like this can be seen on page 65 of Romero’s Warman’s
Jewelry, Ed. 3 on page 65.
View #G50651

A young girl wearing a sentimental photo locket and her coral
bead bracelet, and two sisters wearing coral necklaces.

CORAL and
seed pearl 1-3/4" pin.
View #Q13052

VICTORIAN coral carved segments bracelet
with square rosette and carved bar stations, yellow gold fittings, 7-1/3" by 7/16". In
the Victorian era, wearing coral was thought to promote good health.
View #V32107

VICTORIAN stick coral
in eternity knot
brooch, extra large sized at 2-1/3" across. A similar but much
smaller brooch can be seen in this
carte de viste. In the
Victorian era, wearing coral was thought to promote good health.
View #V32108

VICTORIAN parure of coral
beads set in yellow gold. The bracelet is four strands, 7" long with a safety
chain. The larger brooch has a watch hook on the back, 1-1/2"; the smaller
brooch, 3/4"; earrings are screw back, 7/8"; the ring is size 7, all circa
1890. In the Victorian era, coral was thought to promote good health. A
set almost identical to this can be seen in "Jewelry in America, 1600-1900" by
Martha Gandy Fales on page 245.
View
View
View
View
View
View
View
View
View
View #V3800

The
CROSS
comes in many shapes and has meanings, spanning both time and place.
Elegant and symmetrical, it is a perfect motif for jewelry.

For a history of the Maltese cross symbol, click here

For a history of the Celtic cross symbol, click here

MALTESE cross brooch in blue and
amber cabochons and blue and green rhinestones, 2-1/4".
View #Y23179

VICTORIAN
vulcanite Maltese shaped cross with flowers and design, 1-1/2".
View #V25885

LES BERNARD cross brooch with
tiger-eye glass and topaz-colored rhinestones. #X21880

CUPID, cherub,
cherubim, putto… all refer to a similar child with wings, a member of
the order of angels. Illustrated in art, impishly pagan, symbolic of
love, romance and the guardians of the sacred, they are also a common motif in
jewelry.

CUPIDS hand painted on ivory
in soft delicate colors set into a gold colored metal frame with hinged
stand.
View
View
View #a50473

LAVA
2-1/3" by 1-3/4" cameo brooch depicting cherubs using early
instruments of astronomy to view the stars.
View
View
View
View
View
View
View

CARNEGIE
enameled cast metal angel child brooch, 4". This is a large and heavy
piece with lustrous enameling, and unlike any Carnegie I have seen before.
View #C23043

A PUTTO (plural PUTTI) is
a charming chubby nude child often depicted in art from the 15th century
on, especially in Italy. Also called an amorino, a cherub
or Cupid. "Eros" to the Greeks, or "Cupid" to the Romans, was the
pagan god of love in all its many forms. Armed with his bows and arrows,
he is always depicted with wings.

Though we now associate Cupid as a
somewhat frivolous symbol of Valentine’s Day, in classical times he was
seen as one of the most powerful of the gods… irresistible,
mischievous, and often a trouble maker. Where Cupid is, love will
follow.

Edwardian 14k and enameled
pendant watch set with an old mine cut diamonds, a ruby, 5 pearls and one
central fresh water pearl. Cherubs decorate the watch, and fantasy
animals decorate the pin. Engraved on the inside from a father to his
daughter on Christmas 1904.
View
View
View
View #V24861

DRAGON MYTHS
are found in almost every country. While he is a fantasy creature, most
like a reptile or serpent, he has a real place in stories and ceremonies
round the world. Some of them are ever said to be fire breathers!

CHINESE Blumenthal style dragon brooch with a cloisonne ball in
green, cinnabar red, navy blue and aqua, brooch 3" by 2", Chinese marks
on the back.

View #X38620

BLUMENTHAL chatelaine pins with dragons and cloisonne balls and gold tone
tassels, total length 9-1/3. each end 4" long, marked on the back "Blumenthal &
Co Inc.

View

View

View

View #X38630

DRAGON brooch with
enameled egg, 2-1/3", illegible mark on the back.
View
View
View #Y22141

BUCKLE Asian three-toed dragon
two-piece buckle, hallmarked, total 3" by 1-7/8".
View
View #Q32637

JAY STRONGWATER winged
dragon brooch. His pieces always have a different look, and this is my all-time
favorite! Circa 1998.
View
View #K14568

BEN MELTZER Inc NY pendant necklace with a dragon motif and aqua
glass cabochons set in antiqued gold tone on the pendant, and both
peacock colored and aqua glass beads and open filigree beads on the
chain. Spectacular! The pendant is 3" by 2-1/8" and the chain is 26"
long. On the back you can see silver tone solder points, but they do
seem to be original to the piece. And separating the pendant and the
chain is a faux Asian coin element.

View

View

View #X39283

The
FLEUR-DE-LIS,
a stylized IRIS or LILY, is the symbol of light and hope and shares it’s
meanings with the flowers it represents. Associated with the
trinity, it has also been a sign of royalty.

ART NOUVEAU 14k Art
Nouveau enameled and pearl iris pin, 7/8".
View #Q25912

LORGNETTE sterling Art Nouveau Iris motif, 5" by 1-1/4".
View
View #L20909

Brooches and chatelaine pins, among which are the popular
fleur-de-lis pins.

FLEUR de LIS gold
tone and artificial pearl brooch.
View #Y19803

FORGET-ME-NOT
flowers are used to symbolize constant attachment and affection and a
wish that love would not die.

VICTORIAN
chalcedony, enamel and turquoise brooch with forget-me-not motif, 2".
View
View
#V14952

MOSAIC Made in Italy mosaic
mini frame with flower motif including violets, forget-me-nots and tiny pink flowers, 2-7/8" by 2-1/2".
View #a32170

HAND PAINTED on porcelain
1-1/4″ round forget-me-not pin.
View #Y25828

The GRIFFIN
(or Gryphon)
is a mythological creature that combines the attributes
of both lion and eagle and symbolize wisdom and strength.

VICTORIAN brown velvet
purse with tiny cut steel beads in a regal griffon and snakes motif, faceted
steel brads on frame, 9-1/2" by 9" with a 32" chain handle. The griffon is a
mythological creature that combines the attributes of both
lion and eagle and symbolize wisdom and strength. See other cut steel purses in Haertig’s "More Beautiful Purses" on page
256-7. View
View
View
View #P32280

SWAROVSKI clear
rhinestone pave in gold tone griffin brooch
circa 1988, a huge 3-1/8" brooch. View #K17699

IVY
is the sign of immortality and
everlasting life. A plant affiliated with the gods Osiris and Dionysos,
it can also symbolize constant attachment and affection.

VICTORIAN silver locket with etched ivy design, fitting and cover on one
side inside, 1-7/8" by 1-1/3".
View #V32208

VICTORIAN silver etched ivy with beaded edge pierced earrings, total length
7/8" by 3/4" wide. View #V32206

VICTORIAN thin silver bangle with etched leaves design on front, slight
ding on back, 6-1/2" by 1/2".
View
View #V32214

VICTORIAN sterling 2" ornate bows and ivy leaves bar pin hallmarked
Chester, England, 1900-1. #V13432
View
View #V13432

VICTORIAN
vulcanite hand holding bird surrounded by a wreath of ivy pin, 2".
View #V26449

VICTORIAN ornate bows and ivy leaves
bar pin. View #V13421

The
MOON
is sometimes thought of as female, mate
to the male Sun. Keeper of the cycles and rhythms of time, nocturnal
animals are associated with it. The archangel Gabriel is said to have as
his abode the moon, and the crescent moon is one of the symbols of the
goddess Isis. The moon also symbolizes death and rebirth in it’s waxing
and waning.

10k SEED
PEARL and ruby moon and star pin, 7/8".
View #Q22085

Seed
pearl crescent moon jewelry

TRIFARI
‘Diane Love’ man in the moon brooch circa 1971, 2-1/2".
View #T26611

The word
PANSY
came from the French word for "think of
me", pens�e. A symbol of
remembrance, it is a lovely design for any piece of jewelry.

PANSY lady face silver tone metal buttons, set of
12, 1" each.
View
View
View #a50614

VICTORIAN vulcanite
2-5/8" pendant with pansies hand painted on porcelain, circa 1870.
View #V27373

ENAMELED pansies bracelet
with rose colored glass cabochons and purple, green and yellow enameling,
wonderful detail, 7" by 1".
View
View
#Y19269

The
PEACOCK
represents beauty, dignity and immortality as well
as pride and vanity. It is
the symbol of Goddesses Juno and Hera and of St. Barbara, and can also
symbolize royalty. The peacock motif was often used in both Art Nouveau
and Arts & Crafts jewelry. In ancient times, the peacock was the
symbol of rebirth and eternal life.

SWAROVSKI peacock brooch in clear rhinestone pave with blue and
green rhinestones and blue cabochon set in gold tone, 2-3/4".
View #K26723

STERLING vermeil
peacock brooch with cream, red and black enameling and clear rhinestone
accents, 2-5/8".
View View
#Y26699

SWAROVSKI peacock pin,
3-7/8". View
View
View #K19220

The
POPPY
is sacred to deities of the moon and represents obliviousness and sleep.
A white poppy is the symbol of peace.

14k ENAMELED 7/8" poppy pin. View #Q12735

JUSTIN
Arts & Crafts leather purse with poppy motif, back strap, 7″ by 5-1/2″.
There is a top toggle and drop missing form the frame of this purse, but it
is still useable and operates perfectly.
View
View
View
View
View
View #P26689

TRIFARI red poppy 3" fur clip circa 1941. #T12295

The
ROSE, in addition
to being a joy in the garden and a treasure in jewelry, is one of the
most complex symbols in history. Depending on the context, it can stand
for perfection, passion, secrecy, desire or virginity.
In the Victorian language of flowers, the wild rose symbolizes
simplicity, the white rose worthiness and innocence, the red rose
charity and love, the yellow rose friendship and the pink rose grace and
beauty.
In Egyptian times roses were scared to Isis, goddess of love and magic,
and in Greek times to Aurora, goddess of dawn. As a funeral flower, it
symbolizes eternal life.

ROSE bouquet. This enameled wonder needn’t be signed…
it’s a three-dimensional treasure with no known maker.
View
#Y19268

MAZER Bros
silver tone with clear and aqua rhinestones rose brooch, 3-1/4".
View #M25060

HAND
PAINTED porcelain brooch of yellow roses, symbolic of friendship.

The SHAMROCK
is an emblem of both Ireland and St. Patrick, as well as of trinity.
Purported to bring good luck, it was given as best wishes to a friend or
loved one. The shamrock is also said to have magic powers.

Enameled
SHAMROCK and seed pearls jewelry.
Enameled
SHAMROCK and seed
pearls pin. #Q12737

SHAMROCK enameled and seed pearls
brooch, crica 1900.
View #Q24388

EDWARDIAN 14k and
seed pearl shamrock pin, 1".
View #Q17686

The
SNAKE
or serpent in Victorian jewelry was often
entwined to symbolize infinity and eternal love.

VICTORIAN
Whitby jet
snake bracelet with beautifully carved head, about 18" long and 1-3" to 1-8"
wide. See page 83 of Helen Muller’s book "Jet". Similar piece seen in
Helen Mueller’s "Jet" on page 83; in Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, 2nd Ed" page 32
and 3rd edition page 51; and in Becker’s "Antique & Twentieth Century
Jewelry" on page 54. #V29886

VICTORIAN 14k yellow
gold snake bracelet with Persian turquoise head and garnet eyes, snake
1-1/2" by 3/4", total 7".
View
View
View #V32252

VICTORIAN gold filled snake brooch
with green and red rhinestones,
1-3/4". View
#V29250

SNAKE silver tone and clear
rhinestones snake wrap bracelet, marked "Patented" and approx 7-1/2" but
is adjustable. #Y24892

VICTORIAN hair
brooch, tiny two-sided glass covered compartments, snake frame, 1". In
Victorian times, the snake was the symbol of eternal love.
View #V27356

MAZER Joseph Mazer
textured gold tone hinged snake bracelet with rhinestone eyes and tail tip,
7" by 1".
View #M25950

STARS
are
symbols of light in the darkness, hope, the highest point man can reach.
Sparkling, brilliant and mysterious… a perfect shape for jewelry.

Seed
pearl Edwardian starburst brooch, circa 1900. #Q22923

Trifari star series
as seen in the 1966 catalogue.

RHINESTONE 4-3/4" comet brooch,
circa 1945. View
#Y23038

The
SUN
is the giver of life, supreme power and light. Male symbol to the moon’s
female, it is the heart of the cosmos.

EISENBERG gold tone and red
enamel lady faces 1" earrings, marked on the back with the script "E".
View
View #E21863

SWAROVSKI
sunshine pin, 2-3/4" and matching earrings.
View View #K19295

FLORENZA unsigned but
with original tag 2-3/4″ brooch rich honey-colored cabochons, rhinestones
and aurora. All done in a pewter-colored setting with both pin back and a pendant hook,
this has an unusual smooth back finish. View
View
#L19312

BIRDS can symbolize
many things depending on the type of bird. A swallow or dove can mean
home, or the soul winging it’s way to heaven. It can also mean hope, as
in Noah’s dove with the leaf in it’s mouth.

VICTORIAN sterling
silver bird, heart, flowers and leaves pin, hallmarked circa 1890, 1-5/8".
View
View #V27908

VICTORIAN sterling silver hallmarked 1894 bird brooch with floral and leaf
design, 1-7/8". View
View #V29132

VICTORIAN sterling
bird bar brooch hallmarked Chester 1892, 1-7/8".
View #V28800

The
SWAN
is symbolic of purity and grace, and is the familiar of the goddess
Leda.

WHITE and black enameled swan brooch with hinged
wing, 2-1/3".
View View
#Y24340

DEUTZ brown wool 7-1/2" by 8" purse with 2" wide gold tone frame, 2-3/4"
detachable swan brooch, double chain 10" handle.
View
View
View
View
View #P26705

STERLING swans brooch, 1-7/8".
View #N24789

The
VIOLET
is the symbol of shy modesty and quiet virtue. It is the flower of the
Greek god Ares.

14k ENAMELED and pearl
1-1/8" violet pin, marked on the catch with an arrow through a heart mark,
circa 1910. This pin has very slight enamel loss.
View #Q11738

ENAMEL Horner sterling lavender
and white Guilloche enamel pin with violet, 2-1/8".
View #Y26243

Hand painted
porcelain brooch, 1-3/8". #Q23868

A
WREATH
is a symbol of victory, merit and of
anything venerated. Originally a wreath of olives leaves was presented
to the winners at the Olympics. The wreath is also a sign of holiday
festivities.

EDWARDIAN 14k wreath watch pin
with pearl, 3/4".
View #Q23561

DeROSA
gold tone with red and clear rhinestone fur clip, 2-1/3".
View #d22677

TRIFARI wreath pin with clear
rhinestones set in silver and gold tone. View
#T19863

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

Morning Glory Antiques &
Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry
References

JEWELRY REFERENCES

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry E-zine

JEWELRY MARKS & DATES
Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry

JEWELRY DEFINITIONS

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN

You can see the Austro-Hungarian hallmarks on the wonderful reference
site at
http://www.925-1000.com/Faustria_02.html "Hallmarking in
Austro-Hungary" www.925-1000.com and
on

http://www.silvercollection.it/austriansilverhallmarks.html

ENCYCLOPEDIA of SILVER
MARKS
Silver Marks

GREEK GODS & GODDESSES
and their symbols

Silver
Standards
A wonderful web site with marks and information,
www.925-1000.com

BRITISH HALLMARK
IDENTIFICATION

CHAINS

JEWELRY QUALITY

VINTAGE
JEWELRY ADVERTISING
Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry

Jewelry Value & History

Jewelry
Symbols

Jewelry by the Decades

RHINESTONE
DEFINITION

Jewelry Design Art

GEM STONE
REFERENCE

COLORED STONES
Identification
ATGA

JEWELRY HISTORY
Style & Design

PURCHASING POWER|
Money in the US, 1774-2008

https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesLZ/Victorian2/vict36642.jpg

ABOUT PEARLS

DATING VINTAGE LOCKETS

GEM SYMBOLISM

RED STONES
Identification

GREEN STONES
Identification

BLUE STONES
Identification

JEWELRY GLOSSARY
Bernardine Fine Art Jewelry

DIAMOND CUTS

GEM STONE
Glossary

GOLD PLATED

ROLLED GOLD
GOLD
PLATING DEFINITIONS

GOLD FILLED

RING SIZES
for different countries

CHATELAINES
and their tools

THE MEANING OF
FLOWERS

PLANT & HERB SYMBOLS

PINCHBECK

MEASURING
Metric vs. Inches
On line conversion

NATIVE
AMERICAN JEWELRY MARKS

GEORGE JENSEN Marks/Dates
JensenSilver.com

GALALITH

SPRATLING SILVER
spratlingsilver.com

CHICAGO SILVER
CHICAGO SILVER MARKS
Arts & Crafts Jewelry, especially Kalo
Paul Somerson

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

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JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Jewelry
Findings

PIN BACKS

"C" CATCH pin back fastener,
used starting in the 1800s.

"C" CATCH pin back fastener, 1800s.

."C" CATCH pin back fastener, 1800s.

Victorian brooch
BACK with tube hinged pin
and c-catch fastener

Victorian brooch with
TUBE HINGE back fastener, used first in
the1800s.

Victorian brooch with
TUBE HINGE back fastener, 1800s.

Victorian brooch with a

TUBE CATCH,
probably European late 1800’s.

TROMBONE catch patented circa
1850 and often used by European jewelry makers.

RIVETED HINGE pin back began to be use circa 1900.

ENAMELED
14k violet pin with seed pearl, 2/3". This pin has a
LEVER CATCH on the back.
View #Q10025.
The LEVER CATCH was patented in about
1901 and was often used on these tiny Edwardian pieces. It opens "backwards"
as the knob up means it is closed.

SAFETY CATCH invented in about 1910 and
variations are still used today.

RIVETED BACK brooch.

F.E. FARNHAM , 1937
No. 2,066,969
Safety catch for pins and the method of making the same.

One piece pin mechanism with safety catch, similar to that shown in the
patent at right.

E. Morehouse, 1945
No. 2,383,012
safety catch
Eugene Morehouse

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950 Edition

Vintage jewelry findings of the 50s, including safety catches, pin stems and
joints, ear wires and nuts. Pin stems, screw-back earrings findings, safety
and plain catches.

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950

Vintage jewelry findings including keyless padlocks, sister hooks,
clutches and necklace clasps. Hexagon clutches, hide-knot bead tips.

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950

Vintage 1950s jewelry findings including guard chains and ring guards. Dual ring
guards, child’s ring chains, earrings guards, safety chains, cord bracelet
guard chains,

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950

Vintage 1950s jewelry findings including snap catches for neck
clasps and bracelets, necklace and bracelet clasps.

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950

BRACELETS

Tongue and groove catch,
also called v-spring and box, used beginning in the 1800s.

Tongue and groove catch
circa 1800s.

Tongue and groove catch
still being used in the 1960s.

SPRING HOOK bracelet catch on a circa
1930s bracelet

HASKELL blue and pink glass
bead and faux pearl double hinged bracelet, 1-1/4" wide. This uses the
patent shown at the right.
View #H23638

G.K. LOWE, 1935
No. 1,994,826
Bracelet
George K. Lowe

NECKLACES

SPRING RING first
used
1840s, also called a BOLT RING. Often seen
on 1880s Victorian lockets and collars.

JEWELER’S findings, split rings, spring rings, jump rings.

Becken’s Catalogue 1902

VICTORIAN silver beaded
edge chain with an etched design on each link, 17-3/4" by 3/4" chain. At the
bottom is a round link called a SPRING RING that opens so that a locket can be
attached. Also called a BOLT RING.
View
View
View
View
View
View
VICTORIAN View #29476

BOLT RING first used
circa 1840. These were larger than the later spring rings.

SPRING RING first
used circa
1840s.

SPRING RING, starting in the early 1900s.

Victorian PIN & BARREL catch.

Patent 1,386.746
Wackenheimer Spring ring
!921

HOOK AND BOX catch for a
necklace circa 1920-30.

BARREL clasp

S.F. Myers & Co. Annual Illustrated Wholesale Price List,

1863-1893
New York, USA
Necklace clasp findings: note tube catch and hook and eye fastener.

VICTORIAN 9 carat yellow gold chain with lightly faceted links and a
tube catch marked "9ct", 19-1/2" and .28 ounces.

View #V37872

EARRING BACKS

LOOP or EAR WIRES
on silver and malachite earrings, circa 1880.

HINGED EAR WIRE
earrings for pierced ears, usually associated with European jewelry, circa
1880. The wire would be inserted from the back of the ear and fastened at
the front in this style.

VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold
and woven hair earrings with a HINGED EAR WIRE findings, circa early 1800s
but they may have been used later too. #V32067

VICTORIAN hair
earrings with kidney wire findings, circa 1880.
View
#V27335

BIRD Victorian 12k and turquoise bird-motif pierced earrings with
KIDNEY WIRES, 3/4" with dangle.
View

Smoky quartz earrings showing the findings.

CLEAR paste dangle pierced
earrings marked "sterling" silver, gold SHEPARD’S
HOOK wires, 1-5/8".
View View

RODDIN 1888 Catalogue, earrings
Roman and bright finish, polished ornaments, engraved tops, onyx, gold wires
and engraved real stone settings.

The SCREW BACK shown here was patented in
about 1894, though these earrings originally had a different style back for
pierced ears. The ends of the original ear wires can be seen at the top of
each earring.
VICTORIAN faceted smoky
quartz with
14k yellow gold
tested fittings earrings, KIDNEY WIRES
for pierced ears.

Vintage jewelry findings of the 50s, including safety catches, pin stems and
joints, ear wires, earrings findings and nuts.

Vintage jewelry findings including keyless padlocks, sister hooks, clutches
and necklace clasps.
Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950 Edition

Vintage jewelry findings including snap catches for neck
clasps and bracelets.

THREADED
POST post for a pierced earring circa 1880.

POST & CLUTCH circa
1920-present.

The CLIP BACK mechanism for earrings was
patented circa 1934 and used in different forms for many years thereafter.

EARRINGS marked
"pat 1649187", circa 1928.
View
View #Y23443

Safety back device for ear ornaments, 1927
No. 1649187
P. REITER

EARRING ,
"pat 1649187", circa 1928.
View
View #Y23443

M. JELLINEK, 1946
No. 2,400,513
clip jewelry
Markus Jellinek

Screw back
and clip earring clip
In the 1950’s, as a result of complaints that the other style was too
uncomfortable, Haskell changed to the use of the "screw back-clip"
earrings.

French earring clip In the 1940’s the switch was made to the "French clip", the
thinner wire clip back we see on many older Haskell earrings.

Combination contemporary clip-back and pierced earring combination for extra
security, sometimes called a "French clip". THis aprticular set of
earrinsg is from the 1980s.

Side

View.
French clip earring

CLIP STYLES

TWO-pronged FUR CLIP
circa 1930-40s.

BACK of a
DRESS CLIP circa 1930-40.

COROCRAFT
DUETTE bow brooch that converts to two
dress clips. "Duette" is a Coro trademark, and describes two fur clips that
can be worn separately or attached to a pin backing.

View

CORO Duette large blue faux star
sapphire and clear rhinestones marked with patn. 1798867, 3-5/8".
View #Y21861

G. CANDAS, 1930
No. 1,798,867
brooch
Gaston Candas

CORO Duette clear rhinestones and
green baguettes marked "patn 1852188" and "1798867",
3". View #C21860

Cartier patented a mechanism for double brooches in about 1927, and Coro
patented theirs in about 1931.

E. PENNINO, 1937
No. 2,119,178
combination clip and brooch structure
Oreste Pennino

A. PHILIPPE (TRIFARI), 1936
No. 2,050,804
Brooch (Duette style)
Alfred Philippe

E.A. PHINNEY, 1931
No. 1,852,188
brooch or clasp
Elisha A. Phinney

R. DeROSA, 1935
No. 2,028,593
ornament (butterfly clip)
Ralph De Rosa

BUTTERFLY pin…
when the wings are squeezed, the pins open to be fastened. Marked on
the back with the letters "EB?" in a bell.
View
View #Y1546

MISCELLANEOUS

Becken’s Catalogue 1902

JEWELER’S findings, slides, spirals, swivels, hooks, settings.
Becken’s Catalogue 1902

BRITISH 9 carat gold mark

CONTEMPORARY EXTENDERS

CONVERTER to use with a brooch, allowing it to be worn on a chain.
This one is in gold tone and it is 1" wide and 1" long, The pin stem slides
into the barrel and a chain goes through the loop.

View

EXTENDER silver tone necklace extender. Fully extended it is 6" long.
Each end fits onto the ends of a necklace and the barrels slide up and down
the chain, allowing for different lengths.

1850- trombone safety catch patented

1849- safety pin invented

1875- celluloid jewelry produced

1893- cultured pearls first developed in Japan

1894- screwback earring findings patented

1901- lever safety catch for brooches patented

1909- Bakelite patented (earliest was in black only, colors came later)

1927- Cartier patented spring system for double clip brooch

1931- Coro patented mechanism for double clip brooches

1934- clipback earring finding patented

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Jewelry Definitions

GARNET
CABOCHON ring with embossed sides. Cabochons
are smooth, not faceted, stones. Garnet
cabochons were also called CARBUNCLES in
the 1800’s.
View
View

The two
BROWN stones toward the top of the brooch shown are called
CABOCHONS, they are smoothly rounded
domes with no facets. The orange and green stones are
FACETED, like a diamond would be.

PURPLE, pink and
blue FACETED rhinestones in
TEARDROP and
MARQUIS shapes.

RETRO sterling vermeil
brooch with purple rhinestone CUSHION CUT
center.

JOSEFF hand
holding a bouquet brooch with SQUARE rhinestones which are COLLETTE or BEZEL
set.

PINK MOONGLOW Lucite cabochons feather
brooch with clear rhinestone accents and black
ENAMELING.
View

AURORA
BOREALIS rhinestones in three colors. Aurora borealis stones have
an iridescent or rainbow finish, and this process was developed in 1953.

DECO clear rhinestone
rectangular brooch. These clear long rectangular rhinestones are called
BAGUETTES.

TRIFARI
pink and aqua DEMI-LUNE rhinestone bracelets.
Demi-lunes are shaped like half moons or half circles.

PINK
MARGARITAS or marguerites set in gold tone1-3/4″ round brooch. Margaritas
have scalloped edges, and are made both with and without a center hole.
View

GREEN
RIVOLI stones have facets that extend from the center
of the stone to the outside edges in an even fashion. Rivolis do not have
scalloped edges.

LAVENDER Juliana "crinkle" art glass, rhinestone and aurora borealis earring.
PINK "crinkle" stones,
possibly called "buff top
doublets" (pointed bottom and cabochon top) with a textured surface,
aurora and rhinestones bracelet and earrings.

JULIANA style unsigned
gold tone hinged bangle with
pink, green and blue striped rhinestones (called
IRIS stones), one with an inset iris rhinestone,
several with multiple decorative prongs in more than one style, 6-3/4" by 1-3/4" front. View
View #J28245

JULIANA style gold
tone HINGED BANGLE with red, purple and peacock rhinestones, margarites and rivoli, 6-3/4" by 1-3/4"
front. This bracelet opens on one side to slip over the wrist. View
View #J28246

JULIANA
style gold tone COIL BRACELET with green and topaz rhinestones and margarites, adjustable
7-1/2" to 8", 2-1/3" front. A coil is not hinged,
but slips on like a spring.
View #J28243

JULIANA
brooch with "watermelon" or VITRIAL MEDIUM larger oval
stones which are green with pink highlights, and green and aurora rhinestone accents,
1-3/4".
View #J27445

JULIANA brooch with BERMUDA BLUE larger
blue, aqua and green oval rhinestones with faceted beads and
rhinestones,
2-1/3".
View #J26900

JULIANA style gold tone hinged
bangle with two large rhinestones that are called
WATERMELON or CUBA stones,
with blended transparent colors in the same stone.

A GIVRE
(or paperweight) stone is a semi-transparent colored rhinestone or bead with "ribbons" of opaque
color
swirling through
it. The ribbon is often white in color. This

Brooch has
Givr� stones as the top five large oval
stones and the drop below them.

TRIFARI
red, blue and green 2-1/4" FRUIT SALAD pot of flowers fur clip, circa
1941. Originally fruit salads were only in the red, green and blue colors,
but sellers have extended that description to other colors as well
View
#T12543

PINK and clear
UNFOILED rhinestones bracelet and
screw-back earrings. Unfoiled stones are transparent, with no foil backing.

STERLING bar brooch and a REGENCY bracelet with
SAPHIRET (also called SAPPHIRINES) brown/blue oval rhinestone
cabochons. Saphiret glass was made in the Bohemian city of Gablonz,
Czechoslovakia, in the mid-19th century. It was made by mixing melted gold
into sapphire-colored glass. Moew can be seen in the book, "Baubles, Buttons & Beads- the Heritage of
Bohemia" by Sibylle Jargstorf, page 139.

The three oval shaped center stones in this crescent brooch are
called
OVAL MATTE PILLOW rhinestones.

JULIANA set of black and golden-colored ART
GLASS cabochon center stones, aurora borealis and black glass beads. View
View

SCHREINER NY aqua
KEYSTONES, lavender
cabochons accents and art glass center ruffle brooch, 3-1/4" by 2-3/4".
Keystones are long narrow stones that are a bit wider at one end than the
other. View #S29401

GREEN
ARROW SHAPED and aurora borealis, rhinestone and
aurora borealis 7" by 1" bracelet, 2-1/2" brooch and 1-1/8" earrings.
View
View
View
View #J27959

JULIANA glass
REVERSE INTAGLIO cameo brooch with red and clear rhinestones
and pendant loop on the back, 2-1/3". A reverse intaglio is carved
into transparent or translucent stone or glass from the back as opposed to
carving from the front like a cameo.
View #J27958

Trifari briolette jewelry
"Round faceted stones in golden or platinum toned Trifanium with sapphire,
Golden toned Trifanium with crystal, fuchsia, topaz, jet or olivene."

TRIFARI
fuchsia "BRIOLETTE" set.
Courtesy of Janet Lawwill

TRIFARI
OLIVINE BRIOLETTE brushed gold tone nosegay pin with faceted crystals,
2" long and lovely, circa 1966.
View #T16648

TRIFARI
BRUSHED FINISH gold tone and rhinestone rose pin.
View A brushed finish is
textured as though a stiff brush had been dragged across it.

STERLING
VERMEIL
and clear rhinestones rose brooch. Sterling vermeil is sterling
with a gold plating over it.
View

MAZER clear
rhinestone PAVE rose brooch. A piece
that is pave has rhinestones set very closely in an area or areas.

GOLD PLATED
electroplated gold coating.

ROLLED GOLD a veneer of gold over base metal.

GOLD FILLED gold laminated to base metal.

PINCHBECK metal is an alloy of zinc and copper used in jewelry of the
1800’s to mimic karat yellow gold.

SLIDE bracelet with enameled,
seed pearl and diamond links all set into 14k yellow gold. A
SLIDE BRACELET is made up of slides off long
chains like the one shown at the left>>>>

EDWARDIAN SLIDE or LONG CHAIN with enameled slide and
a watch or lorgnette hook at the end.
View #V21748

COROCRAFT DAY AND NIGHT blue cabochon and pave floral 4" brooch.
View
View. A "Day and
night" brooch has a mechanism that allows it to be worn in more than one
position, with the flowers open or closed.
#C20223

The petals on the central flower
OPEN
and CLOSE around
the center blue cabochon,
giving the brooch a different look in each position. The
MECHANISM that
allows this is amazingly complex. Day and night pieces can also be
reversible, with a plainer side for day and a fancy side for night wear.

ENAMELED blue, yellow and red 3" bird TREMBLER brooch circa 1940. View
View

Springs allow the wings to tremble. Springs are often used to make
flowers tremble on a floral brooch, too.

https://www.morninggloryantiques.com/imagesLZ/unsigned2/rh42150.jpg

SILVER brooch, 2-1/8" with carved ROCK
CRYSTAL center and MARCASITE
accents, trombone catch.
View View

CINER Deco black enamel and marcasite LAPEL WATCH, which would be worn upside-down
from how it is shown in the picture. It is hinged, so that the wearer could
tip it up to read the time.
View
View

BAR PIN circa 1900 with five
PEACOCK EYE stones. Peacock eyes are
stones that simulate the eye of a peacock tail, and they are a raised blue
glass surrounded by green enameling. The eye is foiled blue and green glass,
probably from Gablonz, Czechslovakia.

SILVER tone
FILIGREE hinged bangle with deep aqua center rhinestone and black and yellow
enameling.
View

SILVER tone

FILIGREE pendant with citrine-colored rhinestone.
View

DOVERCRAFT gold tone
MESH band bracelet with purple rhinestone center.
View
View #X24207

VICTORIAN round silver brooch
with beaded edge, APPLIED SURFACE layer of rose and yellow gold rose and leaf design,
deep open hair compartment in the back with glass cover, c-catch and tube
hinge, circa 1880, 1-1/3".
View #V26458

VICTORIAN silver oval brooch with BEADED EDGE and leaves and flowers
motif, open hair
compartment on back with no cover, c-catch and tube hinge, circa 1880, 1-5/8".
View #V26456

VICTORIAN round silver brooch
with beaded edge, applied surface layer of rose and leaf design, deep
OPEN HAIR COMPARTMENT
or locket
on the back, c-catch and tube hinge, circa 1880, 1-1/3".
View #V26410

STERLING LORGNETTE, eyeglasses
in an attached decorative case with a spring-loaded latch, usually worn on a
ribbon or long chain.
View

SILVER etched
bird CHATELAINE HOOK with ruby eye, emerald and pearl collar.
This would have hooked over a lady’s belt to hold a purse.
View

Back view of CHATELAINE HOOK.

CHATELAINE PURSE Marked "F&N Co" inside., with a silver plated frame,
silver faceted beads and a leather back, originally worn on a chatelaine
or a hook at the belt,
circa 1900, 5" by 8". A purse almost identical to this can be seen in Roseann Ettinger’s "Handbags" on page 32.
View
View
View

GORHAM sterling purse CHATELAINE HOOK, 2-1/8".
View
View
View

Purse shown with CHATELAINE
HOOK or belt clip attached.

GREEN
MOLDED GLASS leaf jewelry component.
View

Costume jewelry companies began using the "c in a circle"
COPYRIGHT MARK in about 1955.

PATENT PENDING mark meaning a patent
has been applied for but not yet granted.

You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.

Jewelry that we have available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE

Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry
presents
~

JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

Jewelry
Design Art & Advertising

Like any other artist, each jewelry designer is inspired
in a different way. For some it might be a color of Czech beads or a line of rose montees, for others, a flower from nature. Often a line was requested by the
marketing department who took into account the styles and colors of each
season, the beads, rhinestones and findings available, and the cost of
manipulating these into a 3-4 lines each year.

How the
designer takes his inspiration from idea to materials to finished product is a
journey rarely thought of when we enjoy the jewelry we wear.

DeROSA arrowroot
floral clip.
View
#d21160

De Rosa Arrowroot design
art work for the clip shown at left. #146

ROSENSTEIN
Oriental lady brooch with glass "coral" roses and cabochons and clear rhinestone headdress.
View #X23986

Rosenstein design pencil sketch for the bejeweled headdress brooch
shown at right.

Costume
Jewelry Art
… how jewelry
was designed

We are lucky to have jewelry design art work to reference the process of
designing jewelry. Most of these design paintings are gouache and/or ink on
parchment. They demonstrate the development from an idea to the finished
product and lend insight into the creative process. Because some jewelry
designers manipulate their materials to form an original piece of jewelry from which other pieces could be
duplicated, art work for some pieces never existed. But others first develop
their ideas on paper, thereby using material that was meant to be temporary,
so it is amazing that any of these ephemeral pieces have survived.

In
many of these illustrations, an under-drawing in graphite can been seen, which was then colored
with gouache. Some illustrations also have notes
indicating changes to the designs or dates of manufacture. The amazing
detail and color belies the short life span these illustrations were meant
to have.

The art work and designs on
paper shown here are from the DeRosa, Haskell, Rosenstein and Barclay
companies. While some of these pieces actually went into production, some did
not, and some had changes made to the original design as the marketing
departments and sample makers made the desired adjustments.

DeROSA
bouquet of violets fur clip, 2-1/2 inches.
View
View View
#d18705

De Rosa original design art work for the clip shown at right
here. The note at the bottom
reads "violets", and the clip was indeed done in violets instead of
the forget-me-nots originally illustrated. #140

DeROSA sterling
cream and green enameled floral fur clip, 2-1/2".
View #d23488

De Rosa #103 cream
enameled lily bouquet clip.

BARCLAY
enameled leaves, ladybug and paved pods brooch.
View
View #X23718

BARCLAY original art work for a brooch design.

DEROSA retro
purple rhinestone and artificial pearl brooch, 2" by 2-3/4".
View #d23931

DeRosa design art work.
Marked in pencil "Done 3-13-44" #230

Costume Jewelry
…inspired by
the real thing

Fine
jewelry was another the direct inspiration for vintage costume jewelry.
Trifari and Coro are good examples of costume
jewelry makers who recreated fine jewelry designs in the less expensive
materials of costume jewery. Lucite jelly bellies were copied from brooches that may have been created in
originally rock crystal set in karat gold. The
Trifari jelly belly bird brooch for example, shown at the right below,
could be one of these.
The same is true of Cartier’s "tuttie fruity" which, like the Trifari clip shown below,
used richly colored and shaped red, green and blue fruit-shaped elements as a
part of the design.
Tiffany did a series of enamel and diamond orchid brooches in the 1890s, and Coro mimicked them in the enamel and rhinestone orchid pins done in the
1940s, like the one shown below left.

Much of this jewelry was designed from the early 1930s to the late 1950s for
a celebrity clientele from Hollywood to royalty. The jewelry was often
featured in glamorous photos in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar other magazines of
the era. Any research of jewelry will show motifs repeated in both fine and
costume jewelry, and many of the motifs go back as much as 200 years or more.

CORO sterling vermeil orchid
brooch with purple and yellow enamel and clear rhinestones, circa 1945.
View #C21466

TRIFARI
red, blue and green 2-1/4" tuttie fruity or fruit salad pot of flowers fur clip, circa
1941.
View
#T12543

TRIFARI “jelly belly” bird brooch in brushed gold tone with
rhinestones.
View #T6116

Jewelry
Advertising Art
… to promote
the product

Artist’s renderings of finished jewelry were used as
advertisements in both shops and magazines. The Miriam Haskell original
watercolors shown below were hung in boutiques and distributed to buyers at
department stores. Many of these are thought to have been painted by
Larry Austin, an illustrator about whom little is known other than this
work.

If you were to see the ad and not be familiar with the jewelry itself, you
might think he took artistic liberties. Once you compare them side-by-side,
however, you can see how accurately he represented the details of each
lovely piece designed by Haskell head designer Frank Hess. Since these illustrations were done during the period when
Frank Hess was the head designer and
Haskell did not mark their jewelry, the are invaluable in identifying early
Haskell pieces.

HASKELL Hess
chartreuse, burnt sienna and tan glass beads and gold tone leaves expansion
bracelet, 3-1/4" front, and matching clip. See Gordon &
Pamfiloff’s "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" page 130. #H26051

HASKELL Larry Austin
original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clip,
numbered "815" on back in pencil, 8" by 10".
View #H26053

HASKELL early
unsigned Frank Hess design from circa 1940. This 4" dress clip is made up of
chartreuse, coral and tan
glass beads. View
#H23939

HASKELL
26"
lariat necklace with 2" clips at each end, 15" necklace and 3-3/4" fur clip.
See the ad for this set in Deanna Cera’s "Jewels of Miriam Haskell" on page
29, bottom right. the ad states, "Miriam Haskell makes costume jewelry and
Harvey Nichols have it!".

HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration
for Haskell flattened bead and metal leaves bracelet and clip with foil "Miriam
Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10", framed so back is not visible.
#H24365

HASKELL
early unsigned Frank Hess chartreuse and green glass beads and wooden
leaves brooch with gold tone lily pads, circa 1935-40, 4".
View #H26052

HASKELL Larry Austin original
watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and
clip/necklace of pastel blue glass leaves and beads, marked in pencil on
the back "930A" and "left", 8" x 10". #H27268

Entire group of
HASKELL blue glass bracelets and clips.
View
See Gordon & Pamfiloff’s "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" page 31.

HASKELL
Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell
pink glass beads and leaves bracelet and clip, foil "Miriam
Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10", written in pencil on the back
#615. #H24366

HASKELL white glass leaves and
beads necklace, clasp marked "sterling", 16-1/2" with 4" front drop.
View
View
View #H29971

HASKELL Larry Austin original
watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell white glass bead and leaves
bracelet and clip with foil "Miriam Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10", written in pencil on the back "
#1032". #H23629

HASKELL early unsigned
Hess 3-1/2" white beads and glass leaves pin.
View #H22889

HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass bead and
artificial pearl dress clips, set of 2. (See "Miriam Haskell Jewelry"
by Gordon & Pamfiloff, page 160.) View
#Y23940

HASKELL
Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell
bracelet and clips/necklace, lady in furs, written in pencil on the
back #1160. #H27270

HASKELL early unsigned
aqua glass bead and artificial pearls on fabric metal coil bracelet, circa
1940, 1/2" thick each, side motif 2-1/2". (See "Miriam
Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff, page 160.)
View #H26809

Jewelry
Identification
from art and advertising

It is common for dealers and collectors try to attribute unmarked jewelry
for both historical interest and perceived increase in value. In the early
days of Miriam Haskell jewelry, for instance, when Frank Hess was the head
designer, Haskell put no identifying marks on their jewelry. It was not
marked at all until about 1947. Today, the early
unsigned pieces are recognized by their wonderful detailing, materials, hand work and
design, and by comparison to these early advertisements.

Original art work and vintage advertisements often offer a more reliable method to
confirm these attributions than do findings or general style. The bird
brooch on the left below, for instance, had all the attributes of a DeRosa
piece, but it was not until I found the original art work that I could
definitely confirm it.

Conversely, I own the cupid and hearts clip (below right) that I attributed
to DeRosa for years, only to discover my mistake when the original magazine
advertisement came my way, identifying it as a Kreisler piece.

When art work is dated it is another affirmation of the styles that were
popular during a particular period.

The real but unsigned De Rosa
brooch of deep blue cabochons and clear rhinestones set in sterling vermeil made from the design at left. #d20435

The De Rosa original art work design for the bird brooch shown at the
left. #174

KREISLER
unsigned cupid double
pronged fur clip with red heart-shaped cabochons and an aqua center stone,
date 1946.
View
View
#Y21153

Jacques KREISLER ad 1946

BARCLAY
art work for a brooch, earrings and rings designs.

BARCLAY art work for a
necklace design.

BARCLAY art work for a
brooch, earrings and rings designs.

BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

DRAWING probably for dress
clips or brooches circa 1930.

DRAWING stamped in French
"Henri Hoffmann, 29 Mai, 1925, 63 Rue de Bretange, Paris. These
drawings are of rings and brooches.

ORIGINAL ART work for a brooch to be made by a jeweler,
11" by 7-1/2". The cat, mouse and
ball designs are laid out for selection and a letter denoting prices,
and it was presented in a folder for the customer’s inspection. It is
dated January 17, 1959 and the jewelers noted are Spaulding & Co,
Chicago and Loring Andrews Jewelers, Cincinnati, Ohio. Their English
hallmark "S&Co" is at the top right of the letter and they operated all
over the world.

View

View

View #a33887

Jewelry…

Jewelry can certainly be
enjoyed for it’s beauty and whimsy alone, but if you are at all interested
in it’s history the hints given by the design art, advertising and
illustrations are an excellent reference and research tool.

Article

Whitby, England

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