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Jewelry Definitions




Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry

presents
~


JEWEL CHAT

Costume Jewelry Magazine




Jewelry Definitions








GARNET
CABOCHON ring with embossed sides. Cabochons
are smooth, not faceted, stones. Garnet
cabochons were also called CARBUNCLES in
the 1800’s.
View
View
The two
BROWN
stones toward the top of the brooch shown are called
CABOCHONS
, as they are smoothly rounded
domes with no facets. The orange and green stones are
FACETED
, like a diamond would be.
PURPLE, pink and
blue FACETED rhinestones in
TEARDROP
and
MARQUIS
shapes.



RETRO sterling vermeil
brooch with purple rhinestone CUSHION CUT
center.

JOSEFF hand
holding a bouquet brooch with SQUARE
multi-colored rhinestones which are COLLETTE or BEZEL
set
..

PINK
MOONGLOW
Lucite cabochons feather
brooch with black
ENAMELING.
View



AURORA
BOREALIS
rhinestones in three colors. Aurora borealis stones have
an iridescent finish, and this process was developed circa 1953.

DECO clear rhinestone
rectangular brooch. These clear long rectangular rhinestones are called
BAGUETTES.

TRIFARI
pink and aqua DEMI-LUNE rhinestone bracelets.
Demi-lunes are shaped like half moons or half circles.








PINK
MARGARITAS or marguerites set in gold tone1-3/4″ round brooch. Margaritas
have scalloped edges, and are made both with and without a center hole.
View

GREEN
RIVOLI
stones have facets that extend from the center
of the stone to the outside edges in an even fashion. Rivolis do not have
scalloped edges.


LAVENDER
Juliana "crinkle" art glass, rhinestone and aurora borealis earring.

PINK "crinkle" stones,
possibly called "marquis

buff top
doublets (pointed bottom and cabochon top) with a textured surface"

aurora and rhinestones bracelet and earrings.




JULIANA style unsigned
gold tone hinged bangle with
pink, green and blue striped rhinestones (called
IRIS
stones), one with an inset rhinestone,
several with multiple decorative prongs, 6-3/4" by 1-3/4" front. View
View #J28245

JULIANA style unsigned gold
tone HINGED BANGLE with red, purple and peacock rhinestones, margarites and rivoli, 6-3/4" by 1-3/4"
front. This bracelet opens on one side to slip over the wrist. View
View #J28246

JULIANA
style unsigned gold tone COIL BRACELET with green and topaz rhinestones and margarites, adjustable
7-1/2" to 8", 2-1/3" front. A coil is not hinged,
but slips on like a spring.
View #J28243




JULIANA style
watermelon VITRIAL MEDIUM larger oval
stones, green with pink highlights, and green and aurora rhinestone accents brooch,
1-3/4".
View #J27445


JULIANA
style BERMUDA BLUE larger
blue, aqua and green oval rhinestones with faceted beads and
rhinestones brooch,
2-1/3".
View #J26900

JULIANA style gold tone hinged
bangle with two large rhinestones that are called
WATERMELON
or CUBA stones,
with blended transparent colors in the same stone.





A GIVRE
(or paperweight) stone is a transparent colored rhinestone or bead with "ribbons" of opaque
swirling through
it. The ribbon is often white in color. This

Brooch has
Givré
stones as the top five large oval
stones and the drop shown.

TRIFARI
red, blue and green 2-1/4" FRUIT SALAD pot of flowers fur clip, circa
1941.
View
#T12543

PINK and clear
UNFOILED
rhinestones bracelet and
screw-back earrings. Unfoiled stones are transparent, with no foil backing.





STERLING bar brooch and a REGENCY bracelet with
SAPHIRET
(also called SAPPHIRINES) brown/blue oval rhinestone
cabochons. Saphiret glass was made in the Bohemian city of Gablonz, Czechoslovakia, in the
mid-19th century. It was made by mixing melted gold into sapphire-colored glass.
Some can be seen in the book, "Baubles, Buttons & Beads- the Heritage of
Bohemia" by Sibylle Jargstorf, page 139.

The three oval shaped center stones in this crescent brooch are
called
OVAL MATTE PILLOW
rhinestones.

JULIANA
style set of black and golden-colored ART
GLASS
cabochon center stones, aurora borealis and black glass beads. View
View




SCHREINER NY aqua
KEYSTONES
, lavender
cabochons accents and art glass center ruffle brooch, 3-1/4" by 2-3/4".
Keystones are long narrow stones that are a bit wider at one end than the
other. View #S29401

GREEN
ARROW SHAPED and aurora borealis, rhinestone and
aurora borealis 7" by 1" bracelet, 2-1/2" brooch and 1-1/8" earrings.
View
View
View
View #J27959

JULIANA style glass
REVERSE INTAGLIO cameo brooch with red and clear rhinestones
and pendant loop on the back, 2-1/3". A reverse intaglio is carved
into transparent or translucent stone or glass from the back as opposed to
carving from the front like a cameo.
View #J27958





Trifari briolette jewelry

"Round faceted stones in golden or platinum toned Trifanium with sapphire,
Golden toned Trifanium with crystal, fuchsia, topaz, jet or olivene."

TRIFARI
fuchsia "BRIOLETTE" set.
Courtesy of Janet Lawwill

TRIFARI
OLIVINE BRIOLETTE
brushed gold tone nosegay pin with faceted crystals,
2" long and lovely, circa 1966.
View
#T16648




TRIFARI
BRUSHED FINISH gold tone and rhinestone rose pin.
View A brushed finish is
textured as though a stiff brush had been dragged across it.
STERLING
VERMEIL

and clear rhinestones rose brooch. Sterling vermeil is a sterling piece
with a gold wash over it.
View
MAZER clear
rhinestone PAVE rose brooch. A piece
that is pave has rhinestones set very closely in an area or areas.




GOLD PLATED
electroplated gold coating.

ROLLED GOLD
a veneer of gold over base metal.


GOLD FILLED
gold laminated to base metal.





PINCHBECK
is an alloy of zinc and copper used in jewelry of the
1800’s to mimic karat yellow gold.
SLIDE bracelet with enameled,
seed pearl and diamond links all set into 14k yellow gold. A
SLIDE BRACELET
is made up of slides off long
chains like the one shown at the left>>>>

EDWARDIAN
SLIDE or LONG CHAIN with
watch enameled slide and watch or lorgnette hook at the end.
View #V21748








COROCRAFT
DAY AND NIGHT blue cabochon and pave floral 4" brooch.
View
View. A "Day and
night" brooch has a mechanism that allows it to be worn in more than one
position.
#C20223

The petals on the central flower
OPEN
and CLOSE around
the center blue cabochon,
giving the brooch a different look. The
MECHANISM that
allows this is amazingly complex. Day and night pieces can also be
reversible, with a plainer side for day and a fancy side for night wear.


ENAMELED
blue, yellow and red 3" bird TREMBLER brooch circa 1940. View
View

Springs allow the wings to tremble. Springs are often used to make
flowers tremble on a floral brooch, too.




SILVER tone
FILIGREE hinged bangle with deep aqua center rhinestone and black and yellow
enameling.
View
SILVER tone

FILIGREE pendant with citrine-colored rhinestone.
View

DOVERCRAFT gold tone
MESH band bracelet with purple rhinestone center.
View
View #X24207




VICTORIAN round silver brooch
with beaded edge, APPLIED SURFACE layer of rose and yellow gold rose and leaf design,
deep open hair compartment in the back with glass cover, c-catch and tube
hinge, circa 1880, 1-1/3".
View #V26458


VICTORIAN
silver oval brooch with BEADED EDGE and leaves and flowers
motif, open hair
compartment on back with no cover, c-catch and tube hinge, circa 1880, 1-5/8".
View #V26456

VICTORIAN round silver brooch
with beaded edge, applied surface layer of rose and leaf design, deep
OPEN HAIR COMPARTMENT

on the back, c-catch and tube hinge, circa 1880, 1-1/3".
View #V26410





STERLING
LORGNETTE, eyeglasses
in an attached decorative case with a spring-loaded latch, usually worn on a
ribbon or long chain.
View
SILVER etched
bird CHATELAINE HOOK with ruby eye, emerald and pearl collar.
This would have hooked over a lady’s belt to hold a purse.
View
Back view of CHATELAINE HOOK.





CHATELAINE PURSE
Marked "F&N Co" inside., with a silver plated frame,
silver faceted beads and a leather back, originally worn on a chatelaine
or a hook at the belt,
circa 1900, 5" by 8". A purse almost identical to this can be seen in Roseann Ettinger’s "Handbags" on page 32.
View
View
View


GORHAM
sterling purse CHATELAINE HOOK, 2-1/8".
View
View
View

Purse shown with CHATELAINE
HOOK
or belt clip attached.





SILVER
brooch, 2-1/8" with carved ROCK
CRYSTAL
center and MARCASITE
accents, trombone catch.
View
View
CINER
Deco black enamel and marcasite LAPEL WATCH, which would be worn upside-down
from how it is shown in the picture. It is hinged, so that the wearer could
tip it up to read the time.
View
View

BAR PIN circa 1900 with five
PEACOCK EYE stones. Peacock eyes are
stones that simulate the eye of a peacock tail, and they are fashioned of
blue-green cabochons with a silver foil backing.


GREEN
MOLDED GLASS
leaf jewelry component.
View
Costume jewelry companies began using the "c in a circle"
COPYRIGHT MARK in about 1955.
PATENT PENDING mark