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Jewelry Findings




Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry

presents
~


JEWEL CHAT

Costume Jewelry Magazine





Jewelry
Findings




PIN BACKS




"C" CATCH pin back fastener,
used starting in the 1800s.

"C" CATCH pin back fastener, 1800s.

."C" CATCH pin back fastener, 1800s.




Victorian brooch
BACK with tube hinged pin
and c-catch fastener

Victorian brooch with
TUBE HINGE
back fastener, used first in
the1800s.

Victorian brooch with
TUBE HINGE
back fastener, 1800s.




Victorian brooch with a

TUBE CATCH
,

probably European late 1800’s.

TROMBONE catch patented circa
1850 and often used by European jewelry makers.

RIVETED HINGE pin back began to be use circa 1900.






ENAMELED
14k violet pin with seed pearl, 2/3". This pin has a
LEVER CATCH on the back.
View #Q10025.
The LEVER CATCH was patented in about
1901 and was often used on these tiny Edwardian pieces. It opens "backwards"
as the knob up means it is closed.


SAFETY CATCH
invented in about 1910 and
variations are still used today.

RIVETED BACK brooch.




F.E. FARNHAM , 1937
No. 2,066,969

Safety catch for pins and the method of making the same.

One piece pin mechanism with safety catch, similar to that shown in the
patent at right.

E. Morehouse, 1945
No. 2,383,012
safety catch
Eugene Morehouse




Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950 Edition

Vintage jewelry findings of the 50s, including safety catches, pin stems and
joints, ear wires and nuts. Pin stems, screw-back earrings findings, safety
and plain catches.

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950

Vintage jewelry findings including keyless padlocks, sister hooks,
clutches and necklace clasps. Hexagon clutches, hide-knot bead tips.

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950



Vintage 1950s jewelry findings including guard chains and ring guards. Dual ring
guards, child’s ring chains, earrings guards, safety chains, cord bracelet
guard chains,

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950

Vintage 1950s jewelry findings including snap catches for neck
clasps and bracelets, necklace and bracelet clasps.

Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950

BRACELETS




Tongue and groove catch,
also called v-spring and box, used beginning in the 1800s.

Tongue and groove catch
circa 1800s.

Tongue and groove catch
still being used in the 1960s.




SPRING HOOK bracelet catch on a circa
1930s bracelet

HASKELL blue and pink glass
bead and faux pearl double hinged bracelet, 1-1/4" wide. This uses the
patent shown at the right.
View #H23638

G.K. LOWE, 1935
No. 1,994,826
Bracelet
George K. Lowe

NECKLACES






SPRING RING first
used
1840s, also called a BOLT RING. Often seen
on 1880s Victorian lockets and collars.

JEWELER’S findings, split rings, spring rings, jump rings.

Becken’s Catalogue 1902

VICTORIAN silver beaded
edge chain with an etched design on each link, 17-3/4" by 3/4" chain. At the
bottom is a round link called a SPRING RING that opens so that a locket can be
attached. Also called a BOLT RING.
View
View
View
View
View
View
VICTORIAN View #29476




BOLT RING first used
circa 1840. These were larger than the later spring rings.

SPRING RING first
used circa
1840s.

SPRING RING, starting in the early 1900s.

Victorian PIN & BARREL catch.

Patent 1,386.746
Wackenheimer Spring ring
!921

HOOK AND BOX catch for a
necklace circa 1920-30.




BARREL clasp

S.F. Myers & Co. Annual Illustrated Wholesale Price List,

1863-1893

New York, USA
Necklace clasp findings: note tube catch and hook and eye fastener.



VICTORIAN
9 carat yellow gold chain with lightly faceted links and a
tube catch marked "9ct", 19-1/2" and .28 ounces.

View
#V37872

EARRING BACKS






LOOP or EAR WIRES
on silver and malachite earrings, circa 1880.

HINGED EAR WIRE
earrings for pierced ears, usually associated with European jewelry, circa
1880. The wire would be inserted from the back of the ear and fastened at
the front in this style.

VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold
and woven hair earrings with a HINGED EAR WIRE findings, circa early 1800s. #V32067





VICTORIAN hair
earrings with kidney wire findings, circa 1880.
View
#V27335

BIRD Victorian 12k and turquoise bird-motif pierced earrings with
KIDNEY WIRES
, 3/4" with dangle.
View

Smoky quartz earrings showing the findings.



CLEAR paste dangle pierced
earrings marked "sterling" silver, gold SHEPARD’S
HOOK
wires, 1-5/8".
View
View
RODDIN 1888 Catalogue, earrings
Roman and bright finish, polished ornaments, engraved tops, onyx, gold wires
and engraved real stone settings.

The SCREW BACK shown here was patented in
about 1894, though these earrings originally had a different style back for
pierced ears. The ends of the original ear wires can be seen at the top of
each earring.
VICTORIAN faceted smoky
quartz with
14k yellow gold
tested fittings earrings, KIDNEY WIRES
for pierced ears.







Vintage jewelry findings of the 50s, including safety catches, pin stems and
joints, ear wires, earrings findings and nuts.

Vintage jewelry findings including keyless padlocks, sister hooks, clutches
and necklace clasps.
Benj. Allen & Co. Exclusively Wholesale,
1950 Edition

Vintage jewelry findings including snap catches for neck
clasps and bracelets.



THREADED
POST
post for a pierced earring circa 1880.

POST & CLUTCH circa
1920-present.

The CLIP BACK mechanism for earrings was
patented circa 1934 and used in different forms for many years thereafter.






EARRINGS marked
"pat 1649187", circa 1928.
View
View #Y23443

Safety back device for ear ornaments, 1927
No. 1649187
P. REITER

EARRING ,
"pat 1649187", circa 1928.
View
View #Y23443




M. JELLINEK, 1946
No. 2,400,513

clip jewelry
Markus Jellinek

Screw back
and clip earring clip
In the 1950’s, as a result of complaints that the other style was too
uncomfortable, Haskell changed to the use of the "screw back-clip"
earrings.

French earring clip In the 1940’s the switch was made to the "French clip", the
thinner wire clip back we see on many older Haskell earrings.




Combination
contemporary clip-back and pierced earring combination for extra
security, sometimes called a "French clip". THis aprticular set of
earrinsg is from the 1980s.

Side

View
.
French clip earring

CLIP STYLES





TWO-pronged FUR CLIP
circa 1930-40s
.

BACK of a
DRESS CLIP circa 1930-40.
COROCRAFT
DUETTE bow brooch that converts to two
dress clips. "Duette" is a Coro trademark, and describes two fur clips that
can be worn separately or attached to a pin backing.

View




CORO Duette large blue faux star
sapphire and clear rhinestones marked with patn. 1798867, 3-5/8".
View #Y21861

G. CANDAS, 1930
No. 1,798,867
brooch
Gaston Candas

CORO Duette clear rhinestones and
green baguettes marked "patn 1852188" and "1798867",
3". View #C21860


Cartier patented a mechanism for double brooches in about 1927, and Coro
patented theirs in about 1931.






E. PENNINO, 1937
No. 2,119,178
combination clip and brooch structure
Oreste Pennino

A. PHILIPPE (TRIFARI), 1936
No. 2,050,804
Brooch (Duette style)
Alfred Philippe

E.A. PHINNEY, 1931
No. 1,852,188
brooch or clasp
Elisha A. Phinney



R. DeROSA, 1935
No. 2,028,593
ornament (butterfly clip)
Ralph De Rosa

BUTTERFLY pin…
when the wings are squeezed, the pins open to be fastened. Marked on
the back with the letters "EB?" in a bell.
View
View #Y1546

MISCELLANEOUS



Becken’s Catalogue 1902

JEWELER’S findings, slides, spirals, swivels, hooks, settings.
Becken’s Catalogue 1902

BRITISH 9 carat gold mark

CONTEMPORARY EXTENDERS





CONVERTER
to use with a brooch, allowing it to be worn on a chain.
This one is in gold tone and it is 1" wide and 1" long, The pin stem slides
into the barrel and a chain goes through the loop.

View


EXTENDER
silver tone necklace extender. Fully extended it is 6" long.
Each end fits onto the ends of a necklace and the barrels slide up and down
the chain, allowing for different lengths.

1850- trombone safety catch patented
1849- safety pin invented
1875- celluloid jewelry produced
1893- cultured pearls first developed in Japan
1894- screwback earring findings patented
1901- lever safety catch for brooches patented
1909- Bakelite patented (earliest was in black only, colors came later)
1927- Cartier patented spring system for double clip brooch
1931- Coro patented mechanism for double clip brooches
1934- clipback earring finding patented