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Georgian Jewelry



Morning Glory Collects…


things we love to buy, wear and share



GEORGIAN
JEWELRY
1714-1837






GEORGIAN
18 karat yellow gold, silver and diamond brooch in a
filigree setting with flowers both front and back, circa 1750-1790, 2"
long and 1-3/4" wide. One the back is the pin mechanism as well as bars
that could hook over a ribbon so it can be worn as a necklace, too. The
brooch tests 18k and has silver setting plates for the 9.424 grams of
table cut diamonds, some of which are faceted, and 33 ounces of 18k
yellow gold. This brooch is almost exactly like a fabulous filigree
parure seen on page 152 of the Dawes & Collings book "Georgian
Jewellery". The book cites it as coming from Normandy, France, circa
1790.

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#V39137

GEORGIAN
18 karat yellow gold and natural emerald necklace which would have been worn on
a ribbon around the neck, 2-3/4" by 2-1/4". On the back are bars for the ribbon
to run through. It is like the necklace on page 93 of the book, "Georgian
Jewellery". By looking through the book, "Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830" by Dawes
& Collings, the emeralds could be either Spanish or Portuguese (which makes
sense with the South American colonies at the time), with probably Brazilian
emeralds due to the lighter color of green. See more on page 109 of the same
book. This lovely piece is circa 1750-1770. The emeralds, which are square and
rectangular step cuts, are natural and the piece tests as18 karat yellow gold.
The largest top emerald is about 6mm by 6mm, the next largest is 5mm by 4.8 mm.
Total weight .69 ounces (19.54 grams).

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#V39136


GEORGIAN
15 karat yellow gold and pearls pendant cross necklace,
total length 27", cross 2-1/2" by 1-5/8", bow 1-3./4" wide, and total
weight 40.555 grams. It has no marks but tests 15-16 karat gold. The
cross has been wore and/or cleaned more than necklace and bow, so it is
a bit lighter in color. The seed pearls are late Georgian or early 19th
century. The chain is beautifully formed, a treasure in itself.

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#V39018


GEORGIAN/early VICTORIAN
rare cannetille pinchbeck and woven hair bracelet with a faceted purple paste stone
in a cannetille work clasp. Circa 1830, four colors of plaited hair made up this
bracelet, which makes me wonder if it might have been made by four
daughters for their mother. It is 7" long and 1-1/4" wide. It was
featured in

Southeastern Antiquing & Collecting Magazine
,
August 2003. Similar Victorian hair jewelry bracelet designs can be seen
in A.
Bernard & Co.
Catalogue 1870.
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GEORGIAN 15
carat amethyst and yellow gold pendant, bracelet and earrings set in
pinchbeck, circa 1840. The stamped settings are typical of the new
manufacturing techniques circa 1840, and the gorgeous teardrop shaped
and oval amethysts are nicely faceted and open backed. The pendant total
length 3-1/3", bracelet 6-1/3", earrings 3-1/2" total length, box 3-1/2"
square and 1-5/8" deep. A similar piece can be seen in the
book, :Fascination: British & Continental Jewelry 1785-1885" on page 41.
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GEORGIAN
hair sepia neoclassical art mourning ring, sepia hair painting on ivory
under crystal showing a woman crying into her handkerchief under a
weeping willow tree and beside a tomb, engraved "Jas. Liddell, Jan.1784
Ae 42", typical Georgian navette shape surrounded by amethysts, size 8
and 1-1/4" along the finger, no marks, total weight .32. One tiny
amethyst is chipped, visible only under magnification. Rings similar to
this can be seen in "Sentimental Jewelry" by Ann Louise Luthi page 8-9;
and in "Georgian Jewellery" by Davidov and Collins page 160.
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GEORGIAN 14 karat gold hair ring on blue enamel with seed pearls
and hair bows under glass, engraved "WC ob 5
Sept 1790 at 74", with original box, It is set above blue foil or blue
enamel, even under magnification it is hard to tell which. Fabulous detail
and design in this 220-year-old ring. The size is 7-3/4 and it is 1-1/4"
along the finger. It came to me in it’s own little blue ring box. View
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GEORGIAN/VICTORIAN 15
carat yellow gold hair bracelet with tiny seed pearls and curl over
plaited gray-blonde hair, blue enamel, engraved on the back "John
Burdon, b. Octr 14th 1811, d. Novr 12th 1893", 6-1/3" around the inside
with the front navette shape 1-7/8" by 1". Rev. John Burdon was a son of
Rowland Burdon and lived at Castle Eden Dene in northern England. The
navette shape and style of this bracelet is very typically Georgian (See
Dawes & Collings "Georgian Jewellery, 1714-1830" pages 145 & 160 for
examples) but the later date engraved is Victorian.
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View #V33003


G
EORGIAN English 1790-1910 oval brooch or pendant with diamonds and
natural pearls set in a starburst on royal
blue Guilloche enamel and surrounded by a band of white enamel. It comes
presented in it’s own fitted box. The back of this pin is rose gold and the front
is yellow
gold, and there is a small dot of silver solder one one side. There
is a loupe on the back so that this can be worn on a chain. The front of
this brooch is older than the back side, with the back being added in the
Victorian era. There are natural pearls and both mine cut and rose cut
diamonds, total weight about .2 carats. The center is a .06 ct mine cut
diamond. In the lid of the box it says, "Watherston 42 Old Bond
Street W" (London, England), and while this box fits this brooch and
seems to have been made for it, it is always hard be sure they originally came together.

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#V38462




GEORGIAN antique 15k Stuart crystal
ring with gold wire cipher on the inside, size 9-1/2, stone itself 1/2"
by 1/2". The crystal is a faceted octagon with a tiny layer of brown under
the crystal and a dash of rose pink coloring. I think the
little cipher says "JC". The band tests 15k and the setting is
silver, so it may have been reset at some point in the past. This is late 1700s to early 1800s and really
lovely, a treasure for the collector of antique rings and a delight to wear
with care.
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#V33264

Back of ring #V33339

GEORGIAN 15 carat ring with hair
underneath crystal, initials "AC" made of tiny pearls and woven hair under the
crystal front, which is surrounded by seed pearls, and engraved on the back
"Alice Coleman, obt 10 Jan’y 1795, at 39", size 9-3/4, 3/4" across front.
It comes in a box from the well-known shop "Cameo Corner Ltd., 26
Museum Street, London WCI.
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GEORGIAN/EARLY
VICTORIAN
cut steel daisy motif set: the necklace is 18" by 1-1/3", the
bracelet 7" by 1-1/3", early to mid-1800’s. Polished steel faceted studs
were riveted to a steel backing to fashion this type of jewelry. This
set is particularly pristine and especially brilliant as each tiny stud has
12 facets. See Clifford’s Cut-Steel & Berlin Iron Jewellery, plate II
(possible attribution to Frichot); Romero’s Warman’s Jewelry, Ed. 3 page 33;
Benette & Mascetti’s Understanding Jewellery page 62; Becker’s

Antique & Twentieth Century Jewelry

on page 78, and Bell’s
Collecting
Victorian Jewelry page 41.
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VICTORIAN bog
oak rare and very old carved bead necklace, probably early 1800s, 36"
long, See Helen
Muller’s book "Jet" page 122 and

Dawes & Collings "Georgian Jewellery, 1714-1830" page 167.
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#V29209

GEORGIAN cut steel and
glass half-pearl necklace, circa 1775-1800, 14 facets on each stud,
glass half pearls set in steel, 17-1/2" chain with 2-1/2" front drop.
Most studs have 12-15 facets. "Fabulous" is a considerable understatement when
describing this necklace. See Dawes & Collings "Georgian Jewellery,
1714-1830" page 18. View
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VICTORIAN
or earlier cut steel
and green foiled glass cabochons drop earrings, very old,
entire length 1-3/4". Tinted and foiled quartz pieces can be seen
in the wonderful book "Georgian Jewellery" by Ginny Reddington
& Tom Dawes on page 102, where they date them to circa 1790.

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#V37477


Both sets shown together.


VICTORIAN
or late Georgian 9 karat yellow gold lorgnette chain with turquoise set stops,
marked "9ct" on the clasp, 54" long.

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#V38783


VICTORIAN
or earlier cut steel
drop earrings with foil backed red tinted glass cabochon centers. The centers look
like they are rose tinted and foiled underneath, typical for this era,
and the crackles you see are decorative, not damage. In other words, the
top of the cabochons are perfectly smooth with no damage at all. The
earring itself is 1-5/8" and the hoops are 1/2" above that. Tinted
and foiled quartz pieces can be seen in the wonderful book "Georgian Jewellery"
by Ginny Reddington & Tom Dawes on page 102, where they date them to
circa 1790.

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#V38627


GEORGIAN 10 karat gold and
foil backed rose cut diamonds by-pass ring with two rose cut diamonds, one 4.2 x
4.8 mm, one 4.1 x 4.9 mm, and six 2.1 to 2.4 mm diamonds; clarity S1 to I-1,
color foil backed with slight tint, total weight 2.241 grams. Circa 1800-1820,
the the two larger diamonds are set in pinched collet rims.
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GEORGIAN
15k yellow gold muff chain with a turquoise clasp and textured
links, tests 15k, .66 ozs, catch marked 15ct, 52" long.

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#V38402

GEORGIAN 12 karat yellow gold
double serpent ring with rose cut diamond center in a closed back
setting, circa 1810-1830, size 9-1/2, weight 4.664 grams. The diamond is
set in a pinched silver collet rim and the scale design wraps around the
entire ring. The diamond is 3.3 to 3.6 mm, difficult to measure in this
setting. The color is a foil backed light brown and it has a tiny broken
edge visible only under magnification.
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GEORGIAN 14 karat yellow gold
set porcelain pendant with pearls, the subject is a shepherd playing
his pipes with his dog seated beside him 1-1/3" by 1" with a 1/4" loop.
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GEORGIAN/VICTORIAN
c. 1840s pinchbeck Swiss floral enamel bracelet with black and white enameling,
7-1/4" by 2". View
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GEORGIAN brooch of a hand
painted portrait on ivory under glass set in silver with rubies. See Dawes &
Collings "Georgian Jewellery, 1714-1830" page 130. #VHM7




GEORGIAN or
VICTORIAN
high domed rock crystal cabochon ring with reverse carved and
painted robin bird on a branch with oak leaves. The setting also has has
three leaves in gold on each side of the center cabochon. The ring is a
size 9 and 3/4" along the finger, the cabochon is a very deep 1/3" with
some scratching visible under magnification, some paint missing inside
as can be seen in the photos. The band, which may be later-added, is
hallmarked for 9ct gold, "375", maker "T&S", "9 375 R" in a
hexagon mark, cabochon tests as rock crystal, band tests 10k, cabochon
setting tests 14k. NOTE: Those are my windows reflected in the
left side of the dome. This is reflective and seems to glow from inside the
dome. View
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GEORGIAN 15k, sepia and pearls
sentimental mourning bracelet with seed pearl surround. The picture
shows a lovely Classically dress lady feeding birds, which were symbolic of the
soul rising to heaven. The cultured pearls were later-added to a lovely Georgian
circa 1830 15 carat yellow gold clasp, and they date from the early 1900s. The
graduated pearls are a high quality with thick nacre and strung with knots
between each pearl as it should be, and they range in size from 1/4" down to 1/8". The wearable length
is 7", the sepia portrait clasp is 1-5/8" by 1".
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#V35525

GEORGIAN faceted rock
crystal pin with dog tooth pulled-up setting, 5/8" by 1/2", one side of
the pin back has been replaced long ago, setting tests 15c and the
repair was made with lead solder so that the crystal didn’t have to be
removed. An interesting side note is that lead solder was first used circa 1850.
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#V37533



GEORGIAN/early VICTORIAN natural seed pearl
brooch with gut on mother-of-pear backing set in gold filled setting, circa
1840, 1-1/2" by 1-1/4". This delicate piece is not missing a single tiny pearl
and is in amazing condition, a great example of the hand work that makes these
so desirable.
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It is interesting that seed pearls were used in different ways as the
decades progressed. In Victorian jewelry it was set in gold, onyx and jet,
where the seed pearls were often used to represented tears. It was used
again in Edwardian jewelry, often in the form of delicate crescent moons and
stars, birds in flight and lavalieres.

GEORGIAN/VICTORIAN natural seed pearls strung with gut on mother-of-pearl
backing bracelet circa 1840, comes in box marked Boodle & Dunthorne Goldsmith’s, 13 Lord
Street, Liverpool, 7-1/3" by 5/8" at the widest. Looks like lace made of
pearls. There are 4 tiny pearls missing from the left side of the center
leaf motif. This bracelet, like all these antique seed pearl pieces, is
extremely delicate and could only be worn with great care, an elegant
collector’s piece. View
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#V33717

Seed pearl jewelry in this delicate style, sewn to a mother-of-pearl
backing, was popular in the early 1800s when women wore delicate
Classically styled Grecian costumes. By the time of Prince Albert’s death in
1860, crinolines became popular and both clothing and jewelry became
heavier.

GEORGIAN Halley’s comet
brooch, rose cut diamonds set in 15 karat gold, in vintage box, 1-1/8". Each time
it was to be seen in the heavens, a surge of comet jewelry became
popular again, worn to commemorate the excitement of it’s sighting. It
was seen, among other years, on November 16, 1835 and this pin dates to
that sighting. Mark Twain was born shortly thereafter, and
coincidentally passed away at it’s next sighting in 1910. It is one of
the most beautifully made comet pins I have ever seen, a tiny treasure
to illustrate a glowing event.
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View #V34393




GEORGIAN 12k yellow gold
and amethyst drop pendant brooch, 1-1/2". The amethysts are faceted and
have a buff top (slight bow on the top facet), which I see occasionally
on Georgian amethysts, and they are a lovely shaded color. The brooch has
Georgian dog tooth settings. From the back you can see that
this was part of a necklace at one time, and was changed to this pin
long ago. View
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#V36561

GEORGIAN
14-15k yellow gold chain with the typical Georgian stamped links,
alternating textured and smooth designs, early 1800s. The box clasp is a later Victorian
replacement. This is approximately .42 ounce, 17-1/2" long by 1/3"
widest.
Similar Georgian chains can be seen in the book "Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830"
by Dawes and Collins on pages 12 and 36 and in Christie Romero’s book "Warman’s
Jewelry, 3rd Edition" on page 26. These antique chains are very fragile and
must be worn with care as the links can be bent easily. But this chain has
already lasted about 200 years, so it has held up for that long! worn with
reasonable care, it will last much longer.
View #V36618

VICTORIAN 15 carat and garnet
dangly earrings, circa 1840, 3/4" total length. The garnets are set in
closed backs, typical of the era, and they have a lovely color. These are a
bit smaller in scale than some I have seen, so easy to wear.
View
View #V36624



GEORGIAN memorial hair ring
with pearl surround and blonde hair. Size 7-1/4 and engraved, "
Joseph Dixon died 16th Jan.y 1815 aged 50". See Dawes & Collings
"Georgian Jewellery, 1714-1830" page 146.
Engraving
#V15165

GEORGIAN or early VICTORIAN agate links bracelet with an engraved plaque that says, "AR
Clothier. 111 London. Rd. Chippenham. WRCD 47/2" as one link. Probably an advertising
piece and circa 1840, very unusual. A similar style bracelet can be seen in Warman’s Jewelry, Ed. 3, page 47 and in Dawes "Georgian Jewlery" on page
52. View
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View #23382

GEORGIAN 9 karat yellow gold,
seed pearl and hair mourning ring inscribed "En. Thornton obt 8 Nov 1802 at 54".
That makes it over 200 years old! The size is 8-3/4 and it is 1/2" along the
finger at the front. Total weight about .13 ounces. There are scratches on the
crystal, visible under magnification, but the braided hair can be easily seen
through it. What a treasure from another age.
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View #V36262




GEORGIAN 18k yellow gold
and banded agate memorial ring, hallmarked London, engraved "Michael Simpson
died 12 July 1835 Age 40 Years" and dated 1835, size 7-1/4, as is.
View
View #K29309

GEORGIAN
18 carat yellow gold 1820-1840 ring with mine cut diamond, four natural
pearls and black and white enamel, size 7-3/4. You can just barely see
where it was once engraved as a memorial inside the band. The raised design goes all around
the band in a chain-like design meeting at the front with scrolls
that hold the central rectangular element. There is loss of some of the black
enameling visible only under magnification and wear on some of the
pearls. The diamond is approximately 0.15 carat, SI-2 clarity and I-J
color, ring total weight 5.086 grams.
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View #V32118

GEORGIAN/EARLY VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold earrings, each a foil-backed closed
cut down collet
set dark
citrines suspending an acorn-shaped hair pendant on early hinged ear wire
findings, 1-1/2". This pattern is shown in the reprint of "The Art of Hair
Work, 1875" by Mark Campbell, page 121. #V32067



GEORGIAN dainty blonde hair brooch with seed pearls, 3/4″. View
#V25998

VICTORIAN
flat cut garnet pansy earrings, collet set
in the Georgian way with foiled but covered backs and later added gold
ear wires, 1" by 3/4". The box is included, but I do not think it is as
old as the earrings which are late Georgian or early Victorian.

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GEORGIAN hair
1/2" pendant engraved on the back "Benj’n Hawkins, b. 19th Jan 18__,
AE {age} ’59", framed with seed pearls which are symbolic of tears, on a
newer 20" chain marked "585". This was probably once a
ring or lace pin.
View #V27361




GEORGIAN early 1800’s 10k yellow
gold and garnet lace pin with hair enclosure, 1", one garnet replaced with a glass stone.
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View #V29759

GEORGIAN early 1800’s 14k yellow
gold, garnet and pearl lace pin with hair enclosure, 3/4" by 5/8".
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#V32198

GEORGIAN man’s lace brooch
with hair insert, engraved "Susanna Bush, obt 12 Aug 1807 alt 30",
an unusually early date, 1".
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View #V29477




GEORGIAN hair pin surrounded by
two rows of tiny seed pearls, braided brown hair under a beveled glass cover,
circa 1810, 7/8" by 5/8". Pieces like this are called "handkerchief pins" in
Romero’s book "Warman’s Jewelry Edition 3" on page 34 and I have also seen them
called "lace pins". View
#V35964

GEORGIAN 15 karat and glass
pearl matching bracelets with hair compartment and later-added costume glass
seed pearl strands, 7-1/2" length with 1/3" by 1/3" clasps. I believe these
may have originally been woven hair bracelets and the glass pearls replaced
the worn hair in the early 20th century, allowing the bracelets to continue
to be worn. View
View #V35926


GEORGIAN garnet and moss
agate tiny pin circa 1810, 3/4" by 5/8". Pieces like this are called
"handkerchief pins" in Romero’s book "Warman’s Jewelry Edition 3" on
page 34 and I have also seen them called "lace pins".
View #V35965




Captain John Jenkins, an early
steamboat captain from New Brunswick, New Jersey, moved to Apalachicola,
Florida, piloted an early steamboat and was an
investor in a steamboat company. He was the husband of Arietta and father
5-year-old of John W. Jenkins, and had the pendant shown at right made in
their memory.

GEORGIAN 14k yellow gold 2-1/2" by 2" oval pendant with 5/8" loop, engraved
on the back, "To The Memory of My Wife and Child, Arietta S. Jenkins obt.
Nov. 25th, 1832, John W. Jenkins, Sept 3rd, 1832". Both died of yellow fever
and were buried in Chestnut Street Cemetery (Old City Graveyard) in
Apalachicola, Florida.
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"Chestnut Street Cemetery (Old
City Graveyard) of early Apalachicola.
Chestnut Street Cemetery dates prior to 1831. Interred are some of
Apalachicola’s founders and molders of ehr colorful history. Also buried here
are many soldiers of the Confederacy and victims of yellow fever and shipwrecks.
Seven of the Confederate veterans served with Pickett at Gettysburg in the
gallant Florida Brigade."
Tombstone of Arietta S.
Jenkins. Tombstone of John W. Jenkins.
"Sacred to the Memory of John W. Jenkins who dies Sep. 5, 1832, aged 5 years."




GEORGIAN hair
brooch, tiny rectangular with black faceted stone frame, curved shape, 1".
View #V27357

GEORGIAN/VICTORIAN
"In Memory Of" hair brooch with the name "Sarah" in hair
compartment, 7/8".
View #V27608

GEORGIAN
handkerchief pin with plaited brunette hair, gold frame, 1". #V27585


REFERENCES:

Georgian Jewellery,
1714-1830
by Dawes & Collings

Warman’s Jewelry, 3rd Edition
by Christie Romero


Jewels
and Jewelry

by Clare Phillips and Ian Thomas