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Victorian Black Jewelry




Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry

presents
~


JEWEL CHAT

Costume Jewelry Magazine



Victorian Jet
& Vulcanite
Jewelry
in Photos


During part of the the Victorian period from about 1860 to 1880,
mourning jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color.
Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak and pressed horn, each carried special
meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand
carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos
might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on
pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn
during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well, and worn for its
beauty and sentiment.




VICTORIAN lady
wearing a cross on a black ribbon, black earrings and a vulcanite bracelet
with a cameo. She leans on a prayer chair. Carte de viste marked "Negretti &
Zambra, Crystal Palace, Sydenham" along with information on ordering
portrait enlargements.

VICTORIAN
lady wearing a portrait pendant set in jet on a black neck ribbon and a bog
oak oval brooch at her neckline. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4",
marked "R.P. Skeolan, Harrogate" on the front and "miniature painter" on the
back.
View

VICTORIAN lady
wearing a vulcanite hand brooch on her lacy necklace and faceted jet
bracelet on her arm. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/8", marked W.J.
Wellsted & Son, 19 & 20 Paragon St, Hull on both front and back, and
"Photographers of the Prince & Princess of Wales" along with "Copies can
be had at any time or an enlargement finished in oil or watercolors" on
the back. Back also has a birds and bamboo design. Backing is a light
mustard yellow color.
View




VICTORIAN vulcanite
cross pendant, 3-1/8".
View #V25356

VICTORIAN jet pendant with
painted lady portrait, 2".
View #V25926

VICTORIAN vulcanite
hand holding sheaf and flowers pin, 2-7/8". For a similar brooch
see page 26 in Helen Muller’s "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments"
and Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, Ed. 3" page 51.
View
View #V25278




VICTORIAN lady wearing strands
of jet beads. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4", marked on the front
"Chancellor, Dublin" and on the back, "Patronized by TRH The Prince &
Princess of Wales; HRH Prince Arthur; HRH The Duke of Cambridge; HSH Prince
Teck" and more famous people, as well as the address, :55 Lower Sackville
Street, Dublin" and instructions for obtaining other images. View

VICTORIAN lady
wearing jet portrait locket on a black velvet ribbon and matching earrings. Carte
de viste size 4-1/8" by 2-1/2", marked "Inskip Photo, The Cliff, Scarboro"
with a Masonic emblem on the back.
View

VICTORIAN lady
wearing elaborate jet necklace and brooch. Carte de viste marked "March
1874" in pencil and "F. G. Earl, Photographic Artist, Worcester &
Malvern".
View







VICTORIAN
vulcanite 2" locket on 4-1/2" of chain.
View
View #V25357

VICTORIAN vulcanite boy
portrait pendant, 1-1/2".
View #V27673

VICTORIAN vulcanite
locket in ornate shield motif, 3-1/4".
View #V25285





VICTORIAN
lady wearing parure of a jet necklace, bracelet and earrings.
Carte de viste marked "Silas Eastham, Photographer, 217 Lord Street,
Southport".
View
View

VICTORIAN lady wearing jet
mourning beads with her fancy hat laying on the table top before her. Carte
de viste size 2-1/2" by 4", marked on the back, "J. Raine, Portrait &
Landscape Photographer, Richmond, Yorkshire" with a roses and trellis
design.

VICTORIAN lady wearing
elaborate vulcanite or jet necklace and earrings set. Carte de viste
size 2-1/2" by 4-1/8" marked on the front S. Eastham, Photo" and on the
back "Silas Eastham, Photographer, 217 Lord St, Southport & 7 Market
Street, Manchester".
View

JET is black fossilized wood, and is associated with
the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into
jewelry and accessories, especially in the 1800’s.

VULCANITE was an early plastic made by combining and heating India rubber
and sulphur.

HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized peat

FRENCH JET is black glass, and not truly jet at all.




VICTORIAN lady wearing a
vulcanite neck chain. Carte de viste marked J.M.D. Worsner, Artist, 154
Leeds Road, Bradford".
View

VICTORIAN lady wearing a
vulcanite neck chain and locket and gold earrings. Carte de viste marked "N.
S. Stone, Potsdam, NY" and hand written "Compliments of Emma De ___,
Nyack-in-the___".
View

VICTORIAN lady wearing
faceted jet beads. Carte de viste marked on the front, "John Fergus,
Largs" and on the back, "John Fergus, Photo Artist, Largs".




VICTORIAN lady wearing
an elaborate cameo mourning piece. Carte de viste marked on back, "From
The One Dollar Picture Gallery, Photographs like this $1.00 per dozen, 112
Merrimac Street, Lowell, Mass.", 2-1/2" by 4-1/8".
View

VICTORIAN lady
wearing a mourning suite.

VICTORIAN lady
wearing jet faceted beads and cameo pendant with ornate dangling earrings. A
net bow with buckle ornaments her hair. Carte de Viste size 2-1/2" by
3-7/8".
View




VICTORIAN vulcanite
pendant on original chain, fastened with ribbon, 34" total. 4" pendant and
chain.
View #V27204

VICTORIAN vulcanite
cameo with twisted surround, 2".
View #V27208

VICTORIAN vulcanite
fuchsia oval 1-7/8" locket on 28" chain, one link missing.
View
View #V27201




VICTORIAN lady wearing
cut steel pieces as a collar clasp and buttons. Cabinet card size
4-1/4" by 6-1/2", marked on the back, "from the Studio of Chas. H. Lindsey,
Photographer, Murgatroyd’s Blcok, Nashua, NH" and hand written in ink,
"James Minn Mch 17-1886, Mochurn Church Yard, Eli_g Cottage, Eli_g Village".

BLACK jet earrings
and a black vulcanite brooch pinned on black lace collar. Carte de viste
size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4", marked on the back, "David Baily, Photographer,
Tamaqua, PA. Duplicates will be made at any time within three years by
sending name and number. No. 11441".

BLACK seed beads brooch
on a white lace collar.




VICTORIAN lady
wearing a vulcanite cameo
pendant and golden earrings. Cabinet card handwritten on the back in pencil,
"Lizzie Richardson".

VICTORIAN
jet grapes
pin and a black velvet ribbon as a choker. Carte de viste marked "J. H. New,
Remsen St., Opposite Parson’s Mill, Cohoes, NY".

VICTORIAN lady
wearing a
teardrop-shaped necklace and a carved ivory name brooch. Carte de viste
marked "Photographie Parisenne, Letalle & Co., (from Paris), 36 Cannon St.,
Birmingham".




ORNATE earrings
and a black ribbon worn as a necklace with a slide.

VICTORIAN lady
wearing a ribbon
choker, black jet long chain and earrings with a lovely vase on the table
next to her. Carte de viste hand written in pencil on the back, "T. Ham—,
72 Russel St., Hanley".

VICTORIAN lady wearing
jet three-strand bead
necklace and a watch chain and holding a fern stem. She sits in a bark
chair. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4", stamped on the back "J. Raine,
Photographer, Richmond"..



VICTORIAN lady
wearing a vulcanite hair comb and a vulcanite cameo pendant and chain with a
Scottish pebble brooch. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/8", marked on the
front, "A. Anderson, Elgin" and on the back, "AlexR. Anderson, Photographer,
Elgin" and copy information, "This portrait can be produced by the above
process from Carte size to the smallest locket; being fixed by fire
they are imperishable."

VICTORIAN vulcanite hair
comb, circa 1870, 4-3/4" by 3-1/4". (See Romero’s "Warman’s
Jewelry, Ed. 3" page 52.
View #V27838

VICTORIAN lady wearing
elaborate vulcanite necklace and hair comb. Carte de viste marked on
front and back "John Fergus, Largs".
View




VICTORIAN lady
wearing a jet bead chocker and holding her diary. Carte de viste size 2-1/2"
by 4", marked on the front "W. J. Chivers, 10 Station Rd, Sutton" and on the
back, a hand written note in ink "Lizzie Gardner, Dec. 28th, 1886" as well
as a printed ad for the photographer.

VICTORIAN lady wearing
vulcanite and jet necklace and earrings and holding her feathered hat.
Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/8", marked on the back, "Artist
Photographer, Miniature & Portrait Painter, E. Gregson, Waterhouse St.,
Halifax, & Talbot Road, Blackpool" along with instructions for obtaining
copies.
View

VULCANITE Prince
Albert’s chain bodice ornament and brooch. Carte de viste marked "Auguste
Moy, Artists & Photographers, York".




VICTORIAN Whitby
jet necklace with 3 drops, 18-1/2" with 2-1/4" front drop .View
#V27233

VICTORIAN vulcanite oval
smooth 1-5/8" locket on 19" chain.
View #V27239

VICTORIAN vulcanite watch
chain, 13" with 4" decorative drop. #V27236




LADY wearing an onyx and seed
pearl mourning earrings and brooch set and a cross pendant. Carte
de viste size 2-1/2" by 4", marked on the back, "T. A. Simons Art
Studio, Chillicothe, Ohio".
View

VULCANITE brooch
with pendant long chain. Carte de viste marked on back, "Copied by the
Pimilco Photo Copying Company, I. Blegrave Terrace, Dulwich. Cartes de
Visite copied 2/6 doz."

VICTORIAN
lady wearing a jet cameo brooch,
earrings and pendant. Carte de viste marked "L. Abell, Kendal Lane, Leeds".

There are several materials used to make mourning
jewelry, and they can be very difficult to distinguish between: jet, bog oak,
pressed horn and vulcanite. Jet was hand carved, while the other materials were pressed or molded.

For information on identifying these and
other materials, see the booklet "What’s It
Made Of ?"
by Sherry Shatz.




VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing jet hair comb, earrings
and beads. Marked on the back, "Latchmore Photographer, Hitchin &
Royston", 2-1/2" by 4".
View
View #Vkph8

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a gold with black
enameling hair brooch with jet beads and earrings, 2-1/2" by 4". Marked
on back, "Vandy Red Brown Artistes in Photography, Miniature & Portrait
Painters, Etc., Liverpool".
View #Vkph5

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing jet bracelets and
earrings and fancy cap, 2-1/2" by 4". The name "Nessie" is penciled on
the back. "Patronized by Her Majesty the Queen, Henry Knight, St.
Leonards on Sea". View #Vkph36




VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing delicate earrings, a bull’s eye
brooch, bog oak beads, a long chain and a ring. Marked on the front,
"G.&R. Lavis, 135 Regent Street W.", 2-1/2" by 4".
View #Vkph40

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing three long strands of jet
beads, 2-1/2" by 4". "Artist & Photographer T. Brooks, 24 Coney Street, York".
View
View #Vkph23

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a French jet star in her hair
and a three-strand faceted jet beads necklace with a black ribbon around her
neck from which suspends a vulcanite pendant, black earrings. "Sarony &
Co., Sarony Square, Scarborough", 2-1/2" by 4".
View
View #Vkph38


VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a jet brooch and earrings
and a vulcanite locket on chain, 2-1/2" by 4". "E. Le Jeune Photographe,
Naples". View
View #Vkph22

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a bog oak brooch, a
double strand of jet beads from which a cross is suspended and earrings,
2-1/2" by 4". "W. Turner, 40 Albion Street, Leeds".
View
View #Vkph18

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a vulcanite locket on a
black ribbon, 2-1/2" by 4". "Henry Knight, Artist & photographer, Regina House,
Grand Parade, St. Leonards on Sea".
View
View #Vkph19



VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a locket on a long black ribbon
and a hand painted Gypsy Boy set in jet brooch, 2-1/2" by 4". Dated on
the back 10/87, "W. McLiesh
Photographer, 71 Northgate, Darlington".
View
View #Vkph25

VICTORIAN
painted porcelain set in jet boy portrait brooch, 2-1/8". For a
similar piece see page 32 in Helen Muller’s "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments"
View #V25351

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a dramatic feather hat.
three strands of jet beads and a black agate with cross brooch, 2-1/2" by 4".
View
View
View #Vkph26




VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing faceted jet beads necklace
and earrings. "A.&G. Taylor Photographers to the Queen".
View #Vkph46

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a locket on a black
ribbon, two strands of faceted jet beads, a sea shell brooch, ring and
earrings, 2-1/2" by 4". "Vincent Hatch Artist, Photographer, Miniature
Painter, 25 Buxton Road, Huddersfield".
View
View #Vkph27

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a three-strand necklace of
carved jet beads and a jet brooch, 2-1/2′ by 4". "Brown, Barnes, Bell".
View
View #Vkph29




VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a fancy hat, carved jet
brooch and finger ring, 2-1/2" by 4". "Alexander Watt, Dundee".
View #Vkph33

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a jet knot brooch, long chain
and finger rings. "photographed by Wlater Tully, Glastonbury", 2-1/2" by 4".
View
View #Vkph44

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a butterfly brooch
and jet necklace and bracelets which carry out the theme of her beaded
bodice. "F.A. Wilkinson’s Photographic Fine Art Studios, Birmingham",
2-1/2" by 4". View
View #Vkph42




BLACK cross pendant worn as a
brooch and hair comb.

BLACK vulcanite
chain necklace.

VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite cameo brooch and
earrings. Carte de Viste marked "Lonsdale Abell, Kendall Lane, St.
John’s Hill, Leeds".




VICTORIAN lady wearing her
vulcanite neck chain and a dress ornamented with fancy buttons. Marked on
the back "Calvert Bros., Portrait and Landscape Photographers, 4 Bury Road,
Strangeways, Manchester".
View
View
View

VICTORIAN lady wearing
simple jet pin and earrings. Carte de viste marked on the back "Geo. P.
Hopkins, Sickles Block, NPA, Albion, NY".

VICTORIAN lady wearing a
jet crucifix on black beads and holding a letter. Marked on the back
"Photographed by A. T. Osbourne, The Portrait Studio, 312 High Street,
Lincoln", this carte de viste is 2-1/2" by 4-1/8".
View




VICTORIAN cabinet card of a lady wearing
faceted jet beads, and beaded bodice and a heart padlock charm bracelet,
marked on the front, "Bennett Clark, 74 Darlington St,. Wolverhampton",
4-1/4" by 6-1/2".
View
View

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady
wearing a vulcanite chain and cross pendant with fancy earrings, marked in pen
on the back "for you", 2-1/2" by 4-1/8".
View

VICTORIAN lady wearing
dangling golden earrings, and locket on a book chain and a jet bracelet. Marked
"H. Bown, Photographer".


For more information about JET and other Victorian
black jewelry we recommend the excellent book ‘Jet’ by Helen Muller
and "Whitby Jet" by Katy & Helen Muller.


"Jet" by Helen Muller

Helen Muller