Browse by Designer

Browse by Era

Come Visit Us

Come Visit us at the Antique Collection Mall
If you're in town then come and visit us at:
The Antique Connection Mall
12815 Central NE
Albuquerque
New Mexico, 87123
USA

See More

Find us on Facebook

Morning Glory Antiques

Newsletter

Subscribe to the Morning Glory Newsletter for articles all about jewelry. Unsubscribe anytime.

Victorian Jet Necklaces



Morning Glory
Collects…

things we love to buy, wear and
share

Victorian Jet
Necklaces,
Lockets, Watch chains, Crosses & Pendants


During part of the Victorian period from about 1850 to
1890 black jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color,
not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed
horn, each could carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one or a
sentiment. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a
message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and
watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on pendants and earrings. While some
black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was
fashionable when not in mourning as well, and worn just for its beauty.

From my dear friend
Katy Muller, author of the book "Whitby Jet Jewellery", she
says "Should you wish to find a jewel which will protect you from the
evil eye, from serpents and from dogs, go to Whitby, a small fishing
village famous for its medieval abbey and Dracula but most famous for
its jet manufacture.

Jet is an organic gem like amber, pearls, coral and ivory. It is a type
of brown coal, a fossilized wood of an ancient tree similar to our
present day Araucaria or monkey puzzle tree. These trees flourished in
the Jurassic period about 180 million years ago. When the trees died
they fell into the river and were carried down to the sea. On their way
they collected debris and small creatures and chemical changes altered
the wood to jet. Jet is a poor conductor of heat and so feels warm to
the touch. There are two types of jet, hard like Whitby jet and soft
jet from other places. There is no
doubt that in the minds of Yorkshiremen the best hard jet of all comes
from around Whitby, found in the cliffs and on the beaches. This was the
jet that was used for the jet jewellery industry. Mining began in about
1840 and stopped around 1920. Pieces of jet can still be found washed
up on the beaches in Whitby today.

As a result of the
1851 Great Exhibition in London, jet jewellery from Whitby became highly popular.
But it was the
death of Prince Albert that boosted the Industry when the royal court
announced that everyone should follow the mourning dress code of
black and "the jewellery shall be jet". During this period jet workers
were to be found all over the town and purpose built jet shops were
opening all over Whitby. The workers were earning good money and
working all hours turning out beautiful jet jewellery.

It was the new rail network to Whitby from
Pickering in 1836 that brought Victorian holiday makers to the seaside,
thus boosting the jet industry. No holiday would be complete without a
souvenir or gift to bring home, often showing the
large 3rd century St. Hilda’s Abbey which still dominates the town
today.

As the century
progressed and fashions changed to lighter clothes, fashion in jewellery
followed. Heavy black crinoline dresses were no longer worn so the
large bulky black jewellery was no longer required. The high price of
Whitby jet jewellery saw huge amounts of imported stimulants like
vulcanite, pressed horn, bois durci at a much cheaper price and mass
produced being more affordable. Unfortunately many of these copies are sold mistakenly for
Whitby jet today.

So in a period of just 10 years jet went from high
popularity to being shunned and unwanted, something the jet workers
could never have foreseen. Fortunately today jet has regained its
popularity as a fashion accessory.

Always try and buy jet from a reputable seller who
knows the difference between jet and the imitations." Whitby Jet by Katy Muller



VICTORIAN Whitby jet
hand carved necklace, a very intricate geometric design that is 18" long with a 5" front drop.
Note the pierced edging and applied carved domes that would have been such
hard work with the hand made tools of that era. The extremely detailed
hand carving in this is magnificent and it is a one-of-a-kind necklace. The
catch is even hand carved and all original, exactly as it should be. It is
one of the very best jet necklaces I have ever seen and it has been a joy to
own all these years.
View
View
View
View
View #V31293
VICTORIAN lady wearing
elaborate necklace and earrings set. Note the wonderful necklace and
earrings that she is wearing.
View

VICTORIAN Whitby jet necklace
that was hand carved with decorated links and stations and a one-of-a-kind
piece. The size ia 20-1/2" wearable length with a 4" front drop. Note the
detail on each drop, with both carved and applied decorative elements. It is
all original and exactly as it was when newly made. This necklace was loaned
on request to be in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page 49, October
2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black Magic
by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D. A copy of that magazine can be included.
View
View
View
View
View
View
View #V29822




VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand
carved necklace with amazing hand carving, 22" long with drops from
3-3/4" at front to 2-1/2" at sides. Jet in this condition is rare and a
wonderful addition to any fine jet collection.
View
View #V36055

VICTORIAN Whitby jet cameo
necklace with double chain, beautifully carved and in excellent condition,
the cameo pendant is surrounded with leaves and flowers and each link has a
lovely ripple carved design, wearable length 20" front drop 4".
View #V36318

VICTORIAN spectacular
Whitby jet grapes necklace with deep hand carving, excellent condition,
18" long with 4" front drop.
View
View #V36220




VICTORIAN
lady wearing elaborate jet necklace, a chalcedony brooch and a vulcanite
hair comb. Carte de viste marked on front and back "John Fergus, Largs".
View

VICTORIAN lady
wearing jet portrait earrings and a black velvet ribbon with a pendant.
View

VICTORIAN
lady wearing elaborate vulcanite drops necklace.
View




VICTORIAN Whitby jet snake necklace with
a heart dangle and
graduated sized beads. It is 18" long with beads ranging from 1/3" to 2".
Snakes were often seen as the symbol of eternal love for the Victorians. See a similar version of a snake necklace on page 122 of Davidov &
Dawes "Victorian Jewelry". This same necklace was loaned to be seen in "Antiques &
Collecting Magazine" page 49, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet
jewellery called Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.
View
View #V31294

VICTORIAN Whitby
jet necklace with three teardrop-shaped drops, faceted centers, 16-1/2" by
3-1/4". There is a repair on one link. A copy of a carte
de visite shows a lady wearing a necklace like this.


View


View


View

View
#V29820

VICTORIAN jet Roman style snake necklace
with segmented body, 17" long and from 1/2" down to 1/3" wide bead
body. The head is 1" by 5/8" and the heart is 5/8". See
a snake necklace in Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" on page 123.
View
View #V31839




VICTORIAN
Whitby jet hand carved necklace with high relief roses and
leaves on four of the links. The jet portion is 15" long and the ribbons are
another 14" each. Each of the carved disks has a matte oval into which
the roses were carved, setting them off beautifully. This necklace is circa 1870
and is all original except for the ribbon. But it was made to be worn on a
ribbon, just as you see it here.. The carving is immaculate and masterfully
done.

View


View


View
#V37736



VICTORIAN Whitby jet carved
and graduated beads necklace, circa 1870. Each bead is hand carved and
graduated to fashion this lovely necklace. A copy of a
carte de visite of a lady wearing a similar
three-strand necklace of carved jet beads and a jet brooch shows how it was
worn. This necklace was seen in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine" page
49, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called Black
Magic
by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.
View
View
View
View

View View
View #V33037

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing three long strands of jet
beads, 2-1/2" by 4". "Artist & Photographer T. Brooks, 24 Coney Street, York".
View
View #Vkph23

VICTORIAN Whitby jet facet
or cant beads, 56" long with faceted graduated beads from 3/4" down to 1/3".
A
carte de visite shows a lovely lady
wearing beads much like this strand. The photo is dated on the back 1871. View

View
View

#V32623




VICTORIAN Whitby jet
locket necklace with seed pearl cross and glass back, 2" by 1-5/8" locket on
18" chain with jet faceted beads and black glass long
beads. View
View #V30053

VICTORIAN jet grapes
pin and a black velvet ribbon as a choker. Carte de viste marked "J. H. New,
Remsen St., Opposite Parson’s Mill, Cohoes, NY".

VICTORIAN
jet necklace with 3 drops, 18-1/2" with 2-1/4" front drop. Jet
jewelry can be seen in "Jewels & Jewelry" by Clare Phillips on page 95. View
#V27233


VICTORIAN jet cherub 1-7/8"
by 1-1/2" locket with photo and hair on back suspended on a 20" faceted
black glass beads chain. Raphael (Raffaello
Sanzio, 1483-1520) was a great, late Renaissance Italian artist. Raphael’s
Cherub is part of his early 1500s Sistine Chapel murals in the Vatican. Many
Victorian pieces were made with this as their inspiration, including this
one.
A similar piece can be seen on page 167 of Bell’s "Collecting
Victorian Jewelry".
View

View #V29917

VICTORIAN Whitby jet with plaited hair locket, 1-1/2" by 1-1/3" locket with
1/3" loop, fittings and plaited hair inside.
View
View #V32221

VICTORIAN jet pendant with
hand painted porcelain green Tyrolean boy portrait, 2-1/2" by 1-1/4" pendant
on graduated strand of hand carved jet beads 18" necklace.
View
View
View
#V29918


VICTORIAN Whitby jet faceted
links and drops necklace. Each link and drop was hand carved. This necklace
is 19-1/2" long with links of 1" by 1-1/4" down to 5/8" by 7/8" and drops of
7/8" to 1-1/3". Under a loupe, you can see holes near the catch where 2
drops are missing, but as the pictures show, their lack does not detract
from the design of the necklace.

See similar necklaces in Davidov & Dawes "Victorian
Jewelry" book, page 121.

View #V31838

VICTORIAN jet collar necklace, 16-1/8" by 3-3/4" front and 1/2" back. The
two front sections are both beautifully carved with a flower bouquet design.
View
View
View
View #V32330

VICTORIAN Whitby jet large
graduated faceted beads strung on black ribbon, 26+ inches long and beads 1"
down to 1/4".
View #V29885




VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady
wearing faceted jet beads necklace and earrings. "A.&G. Taylor Photographers to
the Queen, miniature and portrait painters". On the back it also says, "Cartes
enlarged to life size and finished in oil or water". We have a family photo that
was enlarged to make a portrait this way.
View #Vkph46

VICTORIAN Whitby jet carved,
or "cut and shaded", and graduated beads necklace, circa 1870.
Each bead is hand carved and graduated to fashion this lovely necklace. It
will come with a copy of a carte de visite of a lady wearing a three-strand
necklace of carved jet beads and a jet brooch, 2-1/2′ by 4". "Brown, Barnes,
Bell".
View
View
View
View View
View
View #V33037

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved
pendant with a pietra dura floral inset of daisies, forget-me-nots and
green leaves. #VHM1

WHITBY JET JEWELRY
by KATY MULLER
author of the book "Whitby Jet"

Because my mother Helen was THE jet expert in
England, I developed an interest in this wonderful jewelry early in my
life. Her book "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments” came out in 1984
then her larger book "Jet" in 1987. In 2009 we collaborated on an
updated version of Jet Jewellery and Ornaments book called “Whitby Jet”, with
some new information and lots of new color pictures.

Mum knew many of the jet workers in
Whitby and her research included interviews with those who were then still
living. She even had the opportunity to move a complete Victorian jet work shop and
rebuild it where it can be seen today in the York Museum. Between the two
of us, we have handled hundreds of pieces of this wonderful jewelry.

The best jet for jewelry was mined in the area around Whitby, England. Jet
jewelry has been made for hundreds of years, but it was made most popular
starting in the
Victorian era after the death of Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, Prince Albert in 1861
when the whole country went into mourning. It was not only a sign of
mourning, but a fashion statement as well.

The best jet jewelry that is found today is well
carved and polished and has all the original fittings. A couple
of small “flea bites” (conchoidal fractures) in jet is not unusual and
it shows its authenticity because vulcanite and other simulants do not chip in
this way. Unfortunately a lot of jet on offer these days that is
made up of odd pieces and beads of jet which are re-made into necklaces,
bracelets and earrings. These aren’t original or as they should be, and
have little value. Buy from a reputable well-informed dealer who knows
jet jewelry if you want the real thing.

In general, it is difficult to exactly date any
jet piece, but certain motifs were popular in certain decades. The knot
motif was most popular in the 1840s for instance, the green gypsy boy on
porcelain in 1860s, lockets in the 1870s and larger brooches in the
1870s. As time went on and fashion changed the smaller pieces were
came into vogue.

Good Victorian Jet jewelry is getting harder and harder to
find, so if you see something you like buy it while you can! It
will only increases in value. And enjoy wearing a
famous piece of Victorian English history!

KATY MULLER





VICTORIAN Whitby
jet necklace, hand carved oval links with faceted ball drops, graduated oval
links, 18" long with the front link and ball 2" long. The two smallest round
faceted beads have stable surface cracks. A similar necklace can be seen in
Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" on page 120.
View #V33879

VICTORIAN Whitby jet necklace,
hand carved with round links, rectangular carved stations and a lovely huge
cross pendant with applied balls, 18" long with the cross pendant
3-1/4". Each rectangular station also has a carved design and saw tooth
edges, wonderful detail.
View
View #V33878

VICTORIAN Whitby
jet faceted graduated ovals collar necklace with ribbon ties, 14" with
1-1/3" down to 7/8" wide, two slight chips are visible only from the back.
A similar necklace can be seen on the cover of Helen Muller’s
"Jet Jewellery & Ornaments".
View
View
View
View #V33619





VICTORIAN black faceted glass
beads muff or lorgnette chain with Vauxhall glass cross pendant,
faceted beads and hook closure, chain 52" long with 1/4" to 1/8" faceted
beads, cross 1-3/4". View
View #V35107

VICTORIAN
Whitby jet 3-strand hand faceted beads necklace, 15-1/2" wearable length
with beads from 3/4" down to 3/8". The stations that lead to the single
strand top are hand faceted as well. Circa 1870,
THIS vintage CDV shows how it
would have been worn.
View
View
View #V35099

Circa 1870,
THIS vintage CDV shows how a
jet graduated necklace would have been worn.




VICTORIAN jet facet or
cant beads double strand necklace, 16-1/2" shorter strand 16-1/2", longer
strand 19", faceted beads graduate from 5/8" down to 1/4".
View
View
View
View
#V31772

VICTORIAN lady wearing
three-strand jet beads necklace.
View
View

VICTORIAN jet carved
with entwined initials "AEI" (Amity, Eternity & Infinity) on the
front for eternal love,
pendant, 2-2/3". See similar pieces on page 90 of Helen Muller’s book
"Jet", and in Luthi’s Sentimental Jewelry page 27. View
#V29461




VICTORIAN double
strand of jet beads and an ivory cherub brooch worn by
Her Royal Highness, The Princess Louise,
Marchioness of Lorne (Louise Caroline Alberta, b. 3-18-1848, d. 12-3-1939).
She was the 4th of Queen Victoria’s daughters.

VICTORIAN jet graduated
faceted beads necklace, 26" with 1/4" up to 3/4" beads strung on thread.
View #V29462

VICTORIAN lady wearing large hoop
skirt and jet bead long chain.


VICTORIAN early French jet
necklace and pendant, 18" wearable length with a 2-5/8" Y and a 2" round
pendant. So far I have never seen another like this, not as long or with
this pendant design. View
View
View
View #V37289

VICTORIAN Whitby jet
carved bead necklace, rare and circa 1870, 41" and about 1/3" wide.
Every single bead is hand made, and they alternate with scored and plain
beads. This is a difficult length to find and one that is versatile to
wear View #V36380

VICTORIAN French jet
necklace circa 1880s, 15" wearable size and with a front drop of 4-5/8".
French jet is really black glass, faceted and fitted onto a metal
backing to create a light weight wonder like this.
View
View
View
View #V37168






VICTORIAN French Jet (black
glass) necklace, 16" with a 3-7/8" front drop. French jet is black glass
used in the late Victorian era to emulate Whitby jet. It is usually more
reflective and the pieces much more delicate than jet.
View
View
View #V35884
A Victorian French jet necklace was worn by Kathryn Hepburn in a 1947 movie,
"Song of Love",
shown in this photo.

VICTORIAN Whitby jet hand carved necklace circa 1880,
16-3/4" long with graduated disks from 1-1/8" down to 7/8". Each link is a
convex circle with saw tooth edge. Every piece including the closure is all
original. View
#V33965


VICTORIAN
French Jet (black glass) necklace, 13-1/3" by 1-1/4".French
jet is black glass used in the late Victorian era to emulate Whitby jet. It
is usually more shiny and the pieces much more delicate than jet.
View
View
View #V35885




VICTORIAN pietra dura jet
pendant, pendant 1-5/8" by 1-1/4", loop 3/4" tall. The
center has a white rose, blue forget-me-nots and green leaves.
View
View #V36221


VICTORIAN
Whitby jet well carved "AEI" pendant with locket back,
pendant 2" by 1-3/4", loop 1". "AEI" stands for "Amity, Eternity, Infinity",
speaking of love or friendship that lasts forever. Under magnification you
can see two small fleabites at the edge of the ring that holds the photo in
place
and the photo itself is later-added and from print media, not a vintage
one. Flea bites are typical of jet of this age and these are barely
noticeable except under magnification and mentioned for accuracy only as
they in no way detract from this lovely piece. Jet lockets like this were popular
circa 1870.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collections of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original
Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the
subject. View
#V36477

VICTORIAN Whitby
jet pendant with etched "IMO" (In Memory Of") on the front, total 2-7/8" by
1-1/2". This lovely pendant is beautifully hand carved circa 1880
and would have been worn on a black velvet ribbon. View #V33620



VICTORIAN Whitby jet tiny
delicate carved long chain of beads necklace, each intricately hand carved
and looking like a tiny rose, incredible and very rare, 54”
with 1/4" beads, all strung on the original black cord. There is one
broken bead near the closure but otherwise this is in almost perfect
condition.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original
Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the
subject.
View #V36505

VICTORIAN Whitby jet faceted
or cant beads, 56" long with faceted graduated beads from 3/4" down to 1/3".
This picture of a
carte de visite showing a
lovely lady wearing beads similar to this strand shows how they were worn. View

View
View #V32623

VICTORIAN Whitby jet locket with gold and pearl encircled cross motif,
all fittings for photos on both sides inside, 1-3/4" by 1-1/3", loop 3/4"
and locket 1/3" thick. This exact locket is shown in Muller’s book "Whitby
Jet" on page 25 where it says this would have been worn in the last 6 months
of mourning. Jet lockets like this were popular circa 1870 and this is a
very special piece.

This very special piece is from the jet personal collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original
Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the
subject.
View
View #V36457




VICTORIAN Whitby jet
double chain cameo locket and collar necklace with three spacers and a hanging cameo
locket pendant, chain 19” wearable length, cameo pendant 2", with
a centre larger cameo and two either side facing each other as they should.
This has very slight
fleabites on the cameo back. Flea bites are typical of jet of this age and
these are barely noticeable, just mentioned for accuracy. The pendant,
original clasp and chain are all original and were originally made to go together.

This very special piece is from the personal collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original
Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet", are the best books written on the
subject.
View #V36471


VICTORIAN
Whitby jet collar with three matching cameos, a centre larger
cameo and two facing cameo facing it, and smooth graduated ovals finishing
up the necklace. This closes with ribbon ties making it wearable at
different lengths. The jet portion is 13-3/4" long, ribbons 13" on each side,
graduating ovals from 1-1/3" wide on the front cameo to 5/8" at the ends.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original
Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the
subject.
View #V36500


VICTORIAN
Whitby jet chain with jet cross with original clasp, 18"
long with links from 3/4" down to 5/8", cross 2-1/4”. Note that
this rare chain is jet, not vulcanite, and what amazing workmanship! The cross has
small fleabites at some edges, but the chain is as near perfect as can be on
an item this age. Flea bites are typical of jet of this age and these are
barely noticeable, just mentioned for accuracy.

This very special piece is from the personal jet collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed
to be genuine and all original
Victorian Whitby jet. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the
subject.
View #V36475


There are several materials used to make mourning
jewelry, and they can be very difficult to distinguish between: jet, bog oak,
horn and vulcanite. Jet was hand carved, while the other materials were pressed or molded.

IDENTIFICATION: Jet brooches will have an applied pin back like this
PIN BACK and this
PIN BACK. An inset
or screwed on pin back like these would indicate that the piece is vulcanite or another black
material, not jet:

PIN BACK
and PIN
BACK
.
Jet chains have links with two duplicate pieces which are pegged and then
glued together. Vulcanite links are all one piece with a slit in one end to
insert the next link. This can be done because vulcanite is malleable,
unlike jet which is brittle.

Jet lockets are smooth inside while vulcanite lockets are textured with a
design inside: Vulcanite
locket

Signed pieces are very hard to find, and when found they are
usually extremely well-carved. The jet workers only signed their very best
pieces and these pieces were sometimes carved for a competition.

For information on identifying these materials, see the book
"JET" by Helen Muller.




VICTORIAN jet worker’s tools as shown in Helen Muller’s book "Jet". How
surprising to see how primitive some of the actual tools were, homemade and
well used, sometimes used by more than one generation. The artistry in the best
hand carved jet jewelry is amazing.

"Jet" by Helen Muller|

VICTORIAN jet worker’s tools as shown in Helen
Muller’s book "Jet". A shop in Whitby still has an original display very
much like this showing a complete workshop and original tools from over 100
years ago.




VICTORIAN jet
hand painted praying child teardrop shaped 2-1/4" portrait pendant on 20"
fabric ribbon.
View
View #V28833

VICTORIAN jet
pendant with hand painted lady portrait miniature on porcelain,
circa 1870, 2". This was used in "Antiques & Collecting Magazine"
page 52, October 2008 in an article about Victorian jet jewellery called
Black Magic by Anna Marie Roos, Ph. D.
View #V25926

VICTORIAN 2-1/4"
portrait pendant with 1/3" loop, circa 1870.
View #V28555



VICTORIAN
vulcanite Bacchante cameo locket of a lovely lady with grapes and
leaves in her hair. Inside are fittings for one photo with cover. This was made circa
1880s. It is 1-1/3" by 1-1/8" with a 5/16" loop and was often worn back then on
a black satin ribbon tied at the back of the neck. .

View


View
#V37486

VICTORIAN Whitby jet
beads pendant with
hand painted porcelain green Tyrolean boy portrait circa 1860, 2-1/2" by 1-1/4" pendant
on graduated strand of beautifully hand carved jet beads 18" necklace.
It is amazing to look at these beads and realize they were made by hand with
simple tools, one at a time. What workmanship!
View
View
View
#V29918


VICTORIAN
jet compass pendant necklace with faceted jet black glass
beads circa 1870, 22-1/2" wearable length and 1-1/2" pendant. The
compass works and the tint faceted glass beads have a later added catch for
security.

View


View


View
#V37709




VICTORIAN jet
with hand painted Tyrolean boy portrait 2-5/8" pendant with saw-tooth edges.
View #V29450

VICTORIAN jet 2" pendant
with hand painted porcelain boy center, 28" black lace ribbon. A
similar piece can be seen on page 177 of Bell’s "Collecting Victorian
Jewelry".
View #V29466

VICTORIAN
jet with portrait miniature on porcelain pierced earrings, circa 1870, 2". See
Bell’s "Collecting Victorian Jewelry" page 192.
View
View
View #V27912




VICTORIAN jet teardrop pendant with transfer and hand
detailed Gypsy boy portrait, one tiny flea bite visible only from back, 2"
with 3/4" loop. View
View #V31804

VICTORIAN Whitby jet and porcelain pendant, lovely lady holding a dove,
1-3/4" by 1-1/3" on a 24" ribbon.
View #V32218

VICTORIAN jet and gold "IMO" (In Memory Of") locket
with photo compartment on back, 1-5/8" with 7/8" loop.
View #V31803




VICTORIAN
young lady wearing a lovely porcelain portrait set in jet pendant.

VICTORIAN jet pendant
with hand painted porcelain child wearing a fancy cap portrait, 1-1/2".
View #V29279


VICTORIAN
lady wearing matching jet cross pendant and earrings and a
black neck ribbon. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4", marked on the back
"Ulke Bros., No 1111 Penn. Avenue, Washington, DC, 1872" and hand written in
ink "Julia, with love Judith".
One photo expert contacted me wondering if this CDV might have been a
gift to U.S. Grant’s wife, Julia, as the Ulke Brothers were well known
as photographers of the politically famous in Washington DC, and 1872
was the beginning of Grant’s 2nd term as President. I would love to know
who she is.





VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a jet brooch and earrings
and a vulcanite locket on chain, 2-1/2" by 4". "E. Le Jeune Photographe,
Naples". View
View #Vkph22

VICTORIAN jet engraved cross
with flowers locket with faceted edge, photo compartment on reverse, 2-1/2"
total length. View
#V29222


VICTORIAN
"IMO" (IN Memory Of) jet locket with initials IMO on the front and
room for two photos inside, with fittings for both but glass for only one,
1-7/8" by 1-1/2", leather thong that it came on 21". These were often worn on a
plain black ribbon, too. There are tiny flea bites on the edges of the inside of
the locket and scratches you would expect with age on the outside, but none
detract in being able to wear and enjoy this wonderful piece. The hinge snaps
shut firmly and stays shut when worn.

View


View


View
#V38942




VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing faceted jet beads necklace
and earrings. "A.&G. Taylor Photographers to the Queen".
View #Vkph46

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a locket on a black
ribbon, two strands of faceted jet beads, a sea shell brooch, ring and
earrings, 2-1/2" by 4". "Vincent Hatch Artist, Photographer, Miniature
Painter, 25 Buxton Road, Huddersfield".
View
View #Vkph27

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a three-strand necklace of
carved jet beads and a jet brooch, 2-1/2′ by 4". "Brown, Barnes, Bell".
View
View #Vkph29

MATERIALS



JET is the black fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew
millions of years ago. It is particularly associated with the
English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into
jewelry and accessories. Whitby became a tourist destination in
the 1840s, and what better souvenir of a seaside vacation that a piece of
jet jewelry? While jet was made into jewelry
throughout the 1800’s and early 1900’s, it was especially fashionable between
1860 and 1890 after Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s beloved
husband, passed away. She made it the most popular jewelry of mourning. Like amber, it will pick up paper when static is
created by rubbing it on wool or silk.

VULCANITE (also trade named "Ebonite") was made by combining and
heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur.
Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved,
and it was used mainly in making jewelry.

HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a
brownish-black in color and has a woody texture.

FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass, and not truly jet at all. Like
all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or
vulcanite. French jet usually has smaller sized pieces backed with black metal in
the same size and fastened together.

BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a
composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly
polished.

GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented
by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was
used mainly in technical articles, e.g. driving belts, stoppers, tubs,
pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household
purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips.
According to author Helen Muller, it was
very rarely used for jewelry.

Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller’s
book Jet and in Christie Romero’s Warman’s Jewelry,
Ed. 3
on pages 51 and 52.




VICTORIAN jet small carved
cameo pendant, 2". #V27666

VICTORIAN carved jet teardrop
shaped cameo pendant, chips on back, 2".
View #V27896

VICTORIAN
jet and vulcanite carved cameo 1". #V27661




VICTORIAN jet faceted locket, 1-3/4" on a
7/8" jet loop. See a similar piece in "Warman’s Jewelry, Ed.
3" page 52. View
#V28197

VICTORIAN jet very
unusual ladies jersey pin together with a copy of an 1898 ad from Moore
& Evans catalogue, 12".
View
Ad #V27234

VICTORIAN lady wearing
faceted jet beads.




VICTORIAN jet
long strand of faceted small beads – rare and very nice!
View
#V28062

VICTORIAN
black beads and jet brooch.

VICTORIAN
Whitby jet hand carved and polished graduated bead necklace,
19-1/2". Every other bead is intricately carved in a stylized rose
design. Push pin and barrel closure and what looks like the original
stringing, which has stretched a bit with age. The carved beads
range from 1/3" up to 5/8", and the smooth beads from 1/8" to 1/2. View #V28805




VICTORIAN Labrodite and
silver cross pendant on a 52" long black glass faceted bead
necklace, cross 2-1/8" by 1-3/4", ribbon 28". A rock hound friend of mine
identified the cross as Labrodite or I would have thought this was all
glass. View
#V34581/36375


FRENCH
jet black faceted glass beads necklace, 52".

View
#V36375

VICTORIAN dyed
black wooden beads, knotted between each bead, silver hook closure, 52".
View #V28416
where?




VICTORIAN
lady wearing carved jet beads necklace and earrings and a widow’s cap.

VICTORIAN jet carved graduated beads, 16". Beads
are graduated in size from 1/4" to 1".
View #V28196

VICTORIAN
lady wearing a mourning necklace, brooch and earrings.




VICTORIAN jet cross
carved with acorns and leaves, 3-1/2" on a 22" velvet ribbon.
View
View #V27653


VICTORIAN
jet Caedmon 2-1/2" cross on 1-1/3" ammonite ("snake
stone") stand.
View #V27658

VICTORIAN jet
cross on cross with "IHS" pendant, 3". #V27698






VICTORIAN jet pendant
with etched cross and wreath on one side and cross and hair compartment with
blond hair on the reverse, 1-7/8".
View #V27259

VICTORIAN jet
and banded agate
cross, as is with small chip on front (see picture), 3-1/8" by 1-7/8".
View
View #V27207

VICTORIAN jet small cross pendant, 1-7/8".
#V28199



VICTORIAN Whitby silver
souvenir napkin
ring with blue enameled shield, 1-5/8" across by 1" wide.
View #V31592

WHITBY EPNS (electro-plated
nickel silver) souvenir chrome plated lobster eating implement with red and blue
enameled Whitby emblem, circa 1930, 7-1/2".
View
View #a31806


For more information about JET and other Victorian
black jewelry we recommend the excellent book ‘Jet’ by Helen Muller
and "Whitby Jet" by Katy & Helen Muller.


"Jet" by Helen Muller

Helen Muller




Whitby Abbey WHITBY, North Yorkshire,
NE coast of England
River Esk, Whitby



Bay Town Cobbled Alley


To Whitby Museum sign. Whitby cobblestone path and shops

Beautiful English landscaping in front of the museum.