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Note: You are on a reference page about one of my favorite jewelry
companies, R DeRosa. Our DEROSA jewelry that is available
FOR SALE can be seen
by clicking
HERE.
If you have some for sale, please contact me because I collect, buy and
sell it, and I pay very fair prices. My email address is jane@morninggloryjewery.com.
DEROSA JEWELRY
1934 to mid-1950s New York City
Let me begin by confessing that I am a big fan of DeRosa jewelry. It’s been one of my top favorites for almost 30 years, so
let me know if you have any for sale. I will always pay really fair
prices for pieces that I like.
Ralph DeRosa jewelry is known for its intricate and layered designs,
high quality, unusual stones and translucent enameling. Some of their
jewelry lines were designed by Elvira but I do not know who designed the
rest. Mr. DeRosa’s wife was Virginia De Rosa and she and their
two daughters, Teresa and Vera (Elvira), also participated in the company.
According the Deanna Cera’s book "Amazing Gems" on page 142, Fred Block
Inc may have manufactured some jewelry for DeRosa, too, but not everyone
agrees with that statement. Cera dates it from
1935-1955. DeRosa
jewelry designs include floral, figural, and retro motifs, as well as designs inspired by
some of the precious jewelry of past eras.
DeRosa jewelry is not easy to find because not many of each design were
made, but is certainly more than worth the search. After years of
collecting and selling this wonderful brand, I have found that the
majority of their pieces were signed, so beware unsigned attributions
unless there is good reference material to substantiate it. This firm was
at 404 Fourth Street in New York City and created jewelry from the
mid-1930s until the mid-1950s.
As a serious collector, one of the best things about this company is
that not many of each piece was made. Many of the pieces shown below are the
only ones I have seen of their kind in all the years I’ve been handling
vintage jewelry. One exception is the cupid riding on a pearlized cloud
brooch, which I see very often. An example of it is shown here on this
page. To me, that and their brooches using tumbled uncut stones are much less interesting than the other DeRosa
pieces, and my guess is that they were made later.
Hand painted illustrations from the De Rosa Jewelry Company
seem to have been the first step in the design process. These miniature
works of art are from a collection of over 250 similar illustrations
that I am happy to own and use as a reference. Several are dated in the
1940’s, and many have hand written notes about how each piece should be
produced. Many jewelry designers never
worked on paper first, but for those who did, these illustrations are
illuminating as to the thought process and
design sense that went into creating this amazing jewelry.
We BUY, collect and sell DeRosa jewelry!
To see some of the wonderful original hand painted design illustrations of DeRosa Jewelry, click
HERE
DeRosa page 1 click HERE
–
DeRosa page 2 click HERE –
DeRosa page 3 click HERE –
DeRosa page 4 click HERE –
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DEROSA JEWELRY Page 5
Reference, advertisements and more
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DeROSA and HOBE
Look-a-likes |
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Very rarely I run across a DeRosa piece that is made exactly like the Hobe
jewelry of the 1940’s, and the pieces here are examples. They are made just
like a Hobe bracelet or clip, but they are clearly signed "DeRosa". As far as I
know, there was no connection between these two companies, but these are SO
similar that it does make me wonder. I wish I knew for sure, and if you
do, please email and let me know. |
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DEROSA bracelet in the 1940s Hobe style with unfoiled
rhinestones in green, golden and pale yellow set in silver wire work
and filigree, 6-3/4" by 2" wide at the front and 1/2" wide at the
back, circa 1940s. Hinged links make this flexible to wrap around the
wrist comfortably, and it is in very good vintage condition with no
missing stones and no damage or repairs. This is signed "DeRosa"
on the back.
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View #d38802 |
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DEROSA and HOBE bracelet
clasps. While these are both on typically Hobe looking
bracelets, the top one is
signed "DeRosa" and the bottom "Hobe". I wish I still had a shot of
the front of this DeRosa bracelet, but I sold it decades ago. The similarity is amazing and yet there is no
documented connection I am aware of between Hobe and DeRosa.
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R DeROSA mark on the back of the very Hobe style bracelet shown
here.
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DEROSA Hobe
style bracelet with deep rose, pastel blue, sapphire blue and clear unfoiled
rhinestones in a hand wrought setting with little four-petal flowers and
swirls of twisted wire. Made in the 1940s, it is 7" long and the between 2"
wide at the front down to 1/2" wide at the back. It is signed "R
DeRosa" clearly on the back.
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DEROSA Hobe style bracelet, side view.
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DEROSA earrings with blue and green rhinestones surrounded by clear
rhinestones in a gold plated sterling silver setting, 1-1/8". Made
in the 1940s, they are reminiscent of Hobe jewelry but the findings on
these earrings are those used by DeRosa. The patent number on the
findings is "1967965", granted to Ballou & Company in 1934. Ballou
made all kinds of findings and I am would think that other jewelry companies used these
earring
findings as well, but so far I have not seen them on Hobe earrings.
NOTE: I have now seen a Sandor bracelet that has a similar gold plated
S-shaped element like these on the centers of the earrings. Just goes to
show that it can be a challenge to attribute unsigned jewelry to a
particular maker.
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DEROSA
fur clip in the Hobe style with three shades of blue unfoiled rhinestones, one
royal blue, one pastel blue and one aqua. Signed "R DeRosa" on the back, it is
in a
hand wrought filigree setting that looks like the work of a Hobe clip. Made in the 1940s, it
is 2-1/8" by 1-7/8" and it is in very good vintage condition.
View
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View #d42428
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DEROSA
lavender and green enameled tulip flower dress clip with artificial pearl
stamen and clear rhinestone accents, circa 1940, it is 2-1/2" by
2-1/8". Fabulous translucent enameling, so typical of DeRosa
jewelry, enhances this
three-dimensional piece.
Also shown
is the
DEROSA original design art work which
would have been done for approval before this clip was put into production, a
gouache on tissue which is itself a rare one-of-a-kind piece. As you can see, a few
minor changes were made in the final design when it was produced.
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#d20434 |
This DEROSA
original design art work would have been done for approval before this clip
was put into production.
It is a
gouache or watercolor on tissue paper and is itself a rare one-of-a-kind
piece. As you can see, a few small changes were made in the final design
when it was produced. This is the original design art work for the flower
clips
shown in this row and one below.
View
#d20434
Art work #202
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DEROSA
tulip flower brooch with faceted red glass beads centered with clear
rhinestones and clear rhinestone petal and leaf tips all in a gold plated setting, 2-3/4" by
2-1/8". It is also a bit similar to Coro patent 140,016 dated 1945,
but Coro did copy other jewelry makers. An almost illegible
mark on the back says something like, "F_ _ RS".
Also
shown is the
DEROSA original design art work
which would have been done for approval before this brooch would have
been put into production, a gouache on tissue which is a itself a rare
one-of-a-kind piece. As you can see, a few minor changes were made in the
final design when it was produced.
View #d37300
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Much to my surprise, I found the signed Deja tulip flower fur clip at
the right, which is like the ones above except that one
of those is by DeRosa and the other has an illegible signature. Was
there a connection between DeRosa and Deja I wonder?
That reminds me of
the flower fur clips in the row below, which came in at least three
colors, one signed DeRosa,
one signed Reinad and one not signed at all.
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DeRosa was made in New York City from 1934 to about 1970.
Deja was only made for only a few years between
1939 and 1941, and then, due to a patent dispute with another jewelry
company, the name was changed to Reja.
Reinad was made from the 1920s to the 1950s, and they were known for
copying the designs of other jewelry companies. They were also based in New
York City. |
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While the tulip fur clip is the same basic
design, it was decorated in different ways by each maker.
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DEJA
tulip flower fur clip with lovely aqua faceted glass beads, each with a clear
rhinestone in the center and with each portion lined with clear rhinestones as
well for extra brilliance. It is all set in gold plated silver and signed
on the back "Deja", made in about 1940, 3" by 2". We have in our
collection the DeRosa design art work for a very similar
flower, shown
HERE, and find it interesting that they were offered by at least two
different companies, Deja and DeRosa.
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REINAD flower brooch with multiple layers in bright blue and clear
rhinestones, the first layers of a rose gold plate and the others of yellow
gold. This is signed "Reinad" on the back in tiny difficult to read
letters, but the signature is there. It is 4" by 3" and does have some
light finish wear on close examination. I have seen this same clip
with the DeRosa signature, and also some not signed at all.
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DEROSA flower fur clip with red and clear rhinestones
in a gold plated setting, signed "R DeRosa" on the back,
it is 4-5/8" circa 1940. Reinad also made this same brooch,
and we’ve seen others that are not signed at all. An example of the
signed Reinad version is shown here at the right.
View
View #d19809
REINAD flower brooch with multiple petal layers in rich red and
clear rhinestones, the first layers have a faint a rose gold wash and
the others are yellow gold. It is signed "Reinad" on the back in
tiny letters, you have to look close but the signature is there. It is
4" by 3" and does have some light finish wear on close examination. We
have had others of this same design with the DeRosa or Reinad signatures, and
also some that were not signed at all.
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View #X42349 |
FLOWER brooch with green and clear rhinestones in a gold plated setting, 4-5/8" long,
but this one is unsigned. Reinad made this same brooch, and we’ve also seen some signed
"DeRosa".
View #d20825
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Occasionally, we have a lovely DeRosa piece refreshed with new enamel work. We
send it to an excellent professional enamellist to have this work done, and the
two pieces shown here are examples of beautiful results.
Since plating can sometimes show signs of wear as it ages over many years, this is a nice way to extend
the wearable life of the piece. I will always state
in my descriptions if I have had my pieces enameled again. |
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DEROSA
large gold plated feather brooch with wonderful enamel work in aqua, pale
yellow and pink with clear rhinestones, 4" long and made in about 1940.
It is signed at the on the back at the very bottom of the stem, and the
enamel work has been professionally done this year (2023). Because the
gold finish was a tad rough, we though the enamel would add a lot to this
marvelous brooch, and it has, even though it is not original to the
piece. The last photo shows how it originally looked when it came
to me.
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DEROSA fur clip with a feather, flowers and
leaf, all in gorgeous lavender, pink and green with clear rhinestone accents.
The masterful detail in the enamel work on this piece, with tiny lines
accenting each element, shows a skillful professional hand. The
finish was a bit rough when this came to me, so rather than not being
able to wear it. I had it professionally enameled and the result is amazing!
It is signed on the back "R DeRosa" and was made in the 1940s.
View
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View #d42130
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Every once in awhile I see a wonderful piece of DeRosa
jewelry that has issues that cannot be repaired. The
clips on the right and left are good examples. I want to share
them here so their lovely designs can be seen by others, and hopefully I will find them in good
condition one day!
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DEROSA red enameled lily flower fur clip with the back flower petal
missing, 4" by 2-1/4". It is signed "R DeRosa" on the back.
While the photo may look upside-down, the clips on the back show that it
was meant to be worn like this. I am always sad to see a wonderful
piece of DeRosa that is broken like this one, but I have worn it as it is and no one noticed the
missing petal.
View #D40787 |
We are always looking for DeRosa
jewelry to buy, and because I collect as well as sell it, I pay very
good prices for the pieces I like. Please do
EMAIL
me if you have any for sale.
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DEROSA fur clip, as is with one stem missing,
it has a large purple marquis shaped center rhinestone, 3 shocking pink long
stones and clear rhinestone accents, along with green enameled leaves.
Sadly,
it’s missing one stem at the bottom where there should be three stems. It is 4-1/3" by 1-5/8" and signed "R
DeRosa" on the back.
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#d41254
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Note: You are on a reference page. DEROSA
jewelry that is available FOR SALE can be seen
by clicking
HERE.
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DeROSA given new life!
Restoring vintage jewelry seems to
have gotten a bad name, but I think it is because such restorations are
often not disclosed to the buyer. When a piece of jewelry comes to me
with wonderful design and underlying quality, but with finish damage or
other issues that can be repaired, I am happy to have it professionally
restored and given a new life! I definitely think that it should
be disclosed to the buyer in my descriptions, though, so that the buyer
can decide for themselves how they feel about it.
Here is a good example.
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DEROSA intricate pink enamel flower bouquet fur clip with unfoiled topaz
colored marquis and oval center stones with
lots of clear rhinestones, some that have turned gray over the years,
and lovely enameled green leaves,
4-1/3" by 2-1/4". There is a bow at the top with rhinestones and pink
enameling. NOTE: This came to me with worn enamel, so I had it
professionally enameled again in 2020.
The colors were chosen based on the original design art work in my
collection, seen here at the right. The rhinestones are brilliant,
the gold plated finish is in very good vintage condition and the clip is
tight and works well. From the 1940s, it’s another wonderful design from
this amazing jewelry maker, and it is signed on the back "R DeRosa".
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View #d41110 |
The wonderful DeRosa fur clip shown at the left came with finish damage, and since
I thought the design and quality of materials were well worth it, I had a
professional enamellist restore it.
The results will allow this beautiful piece to be worn and enjoyed for many more
years to come.
DEROSA original drawn and painted design art work for the clip shown at the
far left.
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DEROSA "Am I or Am I not!?"
These are lovely and unusual unsigned pieces that have the earmarks of DeRosa
jewelry,
but they are not signed, and so far I cannot find a reference to be 100% sure
who made
them.
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DEROSA
looking
flower fur clip with round red glass stamen, lavender petals, green leaves
and clear rhinestones, 2-1/8" by 2-1/8". As can be seen in the photo,
it has many dark rhinestones, but in this case that does not bother me and I enjoy it anyway.
It has no signature so I cannot be certain that this is a DeRosa clip, but
it sure has the earmarks of either their work or a of a Dujay fur clip.
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View #d41256 |
DEROSA
original design art work for a brooch or clip. Could this be for the
clip at the left?
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DEROSA style flower brooch with translucent green, rose and orange enamel over
gold tone and accented with clear rhinestones and artificial pearls, 3-5/8".
Having handled so much DeRosa jewelry, this reminds me of one, but so far I
am not sure.
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View #d29529
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DEROSA original design art work that could have been for the clip shown at the
right. This clip has the typical DeRosa filigree leaf veins and
scrolls. #d41179.
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DEROSA unsigned flower and ribbons brooch with purple rhinestones, clear
rhinestone accents and green enameled leaves, 3" by 2-3/4". The enamel
on this was professionally restored recently because there was almost no
enamel left when I got it. Like many pieces of jewelry from this era,
there were also graying rhinestones. The original DeRosa design art work
shown at the left looks a lot like this brooch. I am so pleased that we
could give this lovely old clip a new life.
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View #d41179 |
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DeROSA magazine
advertisements
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DEROSA advertisement 1947
This was in a Harper’s Bazaar Magazine advertisement from Spring 1947, seen
in the last photo here. The ad states this jewelry is "DeRosa designed
jewels- Brilliants with Victorian enamel on sterling-rhodium or gold finish-
at fine stores". |
DEROSA
August-September 1946 De Rosa advertisement Courtesy of Pat Seal.
The words say, "Brilliants on sterling with varicolored pendants – finished
in gold or rhodium. Sold in finer stores. DeRosa designed
jewels". |
Advertisement for a De Rosa set of a clip, bracelet and earrings, 1947.
The ad reads, "DeRosa Designed Jewels. Brilliants on sterling, rhodium
or gold finish, Ralph De Rosa Company, New York".
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"Brilliants on sterling – rhodium or gold finish", This lacy looking set is
shown with a card that says "DeRosa designed Jewels ~ Ralph DeRosa
Company, NY". |
DEROSA jewelry in a magazine advertisement from Harper’s Bazaar summer
of 1946.
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DEROSA Designed
Jewels ~ and ad for clip #d23570, courtesy of Pat Seal.
"Brilliants with simulated pearls…". |
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DEROSA jewelry in a magazine advertisement "Rhinestones resplendent by
Ralph DeRosa".
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DEROSA magazine advertisement for a clip from 1941, "Ralph DeRosa, 4th
Avenue, NYC – Jewels by DeRosa. A two-toned gold plated clip with simulated
topaz or amethyst." Leading Stores. |
"DEROSA designed Jewels ~ Ralph DeRosa Company, NY".
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Note: You are on a reference page. DEROSA
jewelry that is available FOR SALE can be seen
by clicking
HERE.
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