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Morning Glory Collects…
things we love to buy, wear and share
Austro-Hungarian/Austrian Renaissance/Czech Jewelry
and St. George and the Dragon
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St. George & the Dragon
The first piece of Austro-Hungarian work I ever purchased is the
first piece shown below, the enameled St. George in rock crystal. It fascinated me the moment I saw it. The motif in this piece is
St. George and the Dragon
encased in a rock crystal orb or egg surrounded by an intricately enameled
and hinged frame. Although it looks at first glance like a pendant, it
is really too heavy for that and the fitting at the top has such a tiny
hole for a bail that I wonder if anything is fine enough to pass through
it.
I am at a loss to decide what this was used for… is it jewelry or an ornament of
some kind, is it a religious piece or a decorative object? It does look
a bit like part of the insignia of the
Order of the Garter. The
Order of
the Garter is an English Order of Chivalry. It started my
interest in Austro-Hungarian and St. George jewelry many years ago.
The jewelry seems to fall into three major categories: the antique
Austro-Hungarian pieces circa 1867-1918; Austro-Hungarian Revival;
Austro-Hungarian inspired pieces including pieces made in a similar style by other
20th century companies.
The quality
of these pieces varies widely. It seems to me that in general and is often
the case, the older the
piece the better the quality. The older pieces often use genuine stones,
with varied quality, and the later ones use rhinestones. The enamel work also varies widely in quality, generally with the older being
the best with the most clean detail and tiny line work. Some of the older pieces
even have enamel work on the loop for the chain. Not all pieces are marked
but when the 18th century pieces do have a mark, the hallmarks can be so tiny that they
are all but impossible to find so look carefully.
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ST. GEORGE & the Dragon
pendant or ornament,
2-1/3" by 1-5/8" by 1-3/4" deep. This is and enameled figure encased in
a hinged rock
crystal case. All the
pieces within the rock crystal "egg" are poly-chrome enamel three diandmensional.
The enameling is orange, black and green around the outside edges, and the
figures are purple, blue, green, orange and black. The piece is almost as deep
as it is wide. The square jump ring is typical of the 18th century, but I am
still researching date and provenance. As can be seen in the pictures, the hinge
is broken. View
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View
#V22499 |
St. GEORGE & the DRAGON-
Reverse view This
has a hinge is at the top and a clip to open it locket-style at
the bottom. It is broken at the hinge.
View #V22499
NOTE: I have now found a photo of a very similar piece in the book,
Renaissance Jewels & Jeweled Objects published in 1968 by the
Baltimore Museum of Art. The book catalogues the Melvin Gutman
Collection, and a similar egg is shown on page 64-65. They date it to
the late 16th century BUT the photo is not sharp enough to show the
detail I would like in order to determine that this one I owned is of
that same era. The one in the book has a drop at the bottom of the
pendant, missing on my example. |
ST GEORGE & THE DRAGON interior
view. As you can see the hinge is broken. The figure inside has wonderful
detail.
View
View
View
View #V22499
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St. GEORGE & the DRAGON- View of top
from the front with the hallmark barely visible. One person who has
seen it in person thought there was a hallmark of the head of Diana the
Huntress on the top front of what would be the bail, if it had a bail. He
also said that Diana is an Austrian silver mark circa 1874-??. I have not
been able to confirm this as yet. |
St.GEORGE & the DRAGON- View of top
from the back. CHRISTIE ROMERO, author of "Warman’s Jewelry", says: "I’ve seen quite a few
St. Georges and Dragon pieces, but never enclosed in rock crystal like this. I assume the metal is silver, and if the hallmark is the head of a
woman with a crescent moon in her hair, that’s Diana, goddess of the hunt,
which is in fact an Austrian hallmark. And that computes. This is
Austro-Hungarian Renaissance Revival." View |
St. GEORGE & the DRAGON- View from
side showing depth, which is about 1-3/4".
View from
side
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ENAMEL on sterling Austro-Hungarian
"St George and the dragon" pendant 1867-72, hallmarked including
an "A" for Vienna,
1-1/3". Wonderful quality with even the the tiny loop enameled in
blue.
View
#Q24982 |
VICTORIAN Austro-Hungarian
St. George and the dragon pendant, polychrome enamel on sterling with a pearl drop
and seed pearls chain and two green faceted stones,
c1890, very slight enamel loss, 2-1/2" by 1-1/2". Note the
lovely detail, especially in the dragon’s wing.
View
View
#V34321 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN 1870 Renaissance Revival pendants are shown above, one
of which is St. George and his dragon. The loop suspending the pearl on the
dragon has an Austrian hallmark on it – but as is typical, it is so tiny it’s
almost impossible to see. This picture is from "Warman’s Jewelry: A Fully Illustrated Price Guide to 19th and 20th Century
Jewelry, Including Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Costume" (3rd Ed) by Christie
Romero.
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OTHER AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN PIECES
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN SCENT BOTTLE- Says the owner of this wonderful piece:
"I’m attaching
photos of the Austrian Renaissance Revival scent bottle that I recently
acquired. I’ve been collecting for more than 25 years and this is the first
bottle that I’ve seen with this enameling “en ronde bosse”. I’ve had
several Austro-Hungarian bottles with just the raised jewels, but no
enameling. As I mentioned before, I’ve admired Renaissance jewelry for some
time and am pleased to have been able to acquire this extraordinary revival
piece.
I think it dates to 1840-1860
time period. The only mark on the piece is a swan in an oval which
tells us nothing because it is a French import mark. It was at some time
sold at auction and was marked by the French to indicate it was a precious metal
– in this case, silver gilt." View View
View
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN SCENT
BOTTLE- "The stopper is a
double-sided head which is enameled. The shoulders and neck of the bottle
are decorated with hippocamp or hippocampus figures (hippocamp is a seahorse
type figure). The hippocamp is also repeated beneath the central figure on
both sides only upside-down. The Phoenix (mythological) figure is on one
side, and St. George and the Dragon (religious and historical) is on the
other.
"The chain was also embellished by the maker, as would have been the case in
the Renaissance, with additional figures – in this case the links are
hippocamps. At the top of the chain is a figure called a “mascaron” which
is a mask/face of some sort. Sometimes mascarons are grotesques, sometimes
funny, sometimes animal heads." |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN SCENT
BOTTLE-
A collector contacted me and was also kind enough to share
here her scent bottle, shown here.
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN lovely
translucent enamel
on sterling brooch with garnets and pearls, circa 1900. This shows the
distinctive white enamel with delicate brushwork typical of the
Transylvanian technique. See Moro’s "European Designer Jewelry" page
178.
View
View
View #V24857 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN lorgnette of
gold washed silver with enameling, citrines, emeralds and pearls, 5-1/2" by
1-1/4". Tiny mark "800" on the glasses hinge. Circa 1890.
See this piece in the book "Warman’s Jewelry, 3rd Ed", page 116,
by Christie Romero.
View
View
View
View
#L13478 |
VICTORIAN Austro-Hungarian lorgnette with quartz and mother of pearl set
in gold washed metal, illegible hallmark on the loop end, 9-1/2" by 2-1/4"
at the widest. The stones are roughly cut but do have a facet, and the
lorgnette itself is heavy and well made. The glasses pop out when a light
downward pressure is put on the button about 2/3 of the way down the handle.
This is an antique and elegant accessory from the past!
View
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View #39416 |
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AUSTRO-Hungarian enameled pendant with purple, red and green glass beads
and rhinestones set off with white enamel work and set in gold tone metal.
See some wonderful Austro-Hungarian jewelry in Carole Tanenbaum’s book,
"Fabulous Fakes" on page 17.
View
View #Q21461 |
HUNGARIAN hand made gilt silver
flower pin with very elaborate layered construction of bezel set green and
pink crystals, pegged natural garnet beads, enamel flowers and cultured
pearls, circa 1920. Stamped on pin, ‘Hungary’ with makers mark, KT, and assay
mark of a dog’s head, and "#3" for 800 silver, 3-3/4".
View
View
View
View #Q31117 |
AUSTRIA enameled pendant with Spring green, black and white enameling,
marcasites and purple and topaz colored rhinestones all set in gold tone.
The chain has purple and yellow faceted glass beads and white enameled balls
along it in the Austro-Hungarian style, and it is 16" long 15-1/4" chain,
circa 1915 and in excellent condition.
View
View
View #Q39287 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN
locket wit a red paste, turquoise and pearl front as well as some very pale
enamel work, fittings inside for two photos. The locket is 1-1/4" by 1", and
the loop 5/8". The back has some finish differences as seen in the photo.
View
View #Q38355
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN necklace with garnets, pearls and lovely delicate
poly-chrome enamel work on both the front and part of the back. It is 18" wearable length, the front element is 1-7/8" by 1",
and the element dangling from that is 7/8" by 1/2". I suspect the
catch is a 20th century replacement. A similar
piece can also be seen in the book, "Warman’s Jewelry" 2nd Edition by
Christie Romero on page 72, and in her 3rd edition of the same book on page
117, where she dated that one to 1900, and then on page 143 is another
example dated 1920. I think this one is circa 1900.
View
View
View
View #V38660 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN bracelet with
sapphires and pearls set in silver, 8-1/3" by 3/4", Austrian dog’s head mark
(1872-1922), 800 silver, and mark "P" for Pest (Budapest), Hungary, city of
assay, maker’s mark "KT", circa late 1800s.
View
View
View #Q36404
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN brooch pendant necklace with pearls and Persian turquoise
set in silver tone with a sterling chain. The brooch has a chain attached to
wear as a necklace, or it can be worn as a brooch. The brooch is 1-1/2" by 1"
and the chain 20" with "sterling" marked on the clasp.
View
View #V37987
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VICTORIAN Austrian Hungarian cherub locket with garnet and turquoise
marquis and cabochons set into gilt silver metal with etched designs.
The wonderful detailed cupid or cherub is colorfully hand painted and
fired onto a porcelain oval. Inside, the locket has plastic covers for
two photos, The locket is 1-1/2" by 1-1/3". There are two tiny hallmarks on the top loop of the locket but I cannot make out
positively what they
are meant to stand for. I believe one mark is the 1867-1922
mark for sterling silver, and the other mark could be a city mark. My
guess would be that this lovely locket is circa 1890. You can see the
Austro-Hungarian hallmarks on the wonderful reference site at
http://www.925-1000.com/Faustria_02.html "Hallmarking in
Austro-Hungary" www.925-1000.com.
View
View
View #V37874
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AUSTRO-Hungarian pendant necklace with garnet cabochons, Persian
turquoise and a seed pearl chain set in silver tone metal, pendant
1-1/3" by 5/8", pearl necklace 15".
View
View #V37986
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN revival
pendant with red and green garnets, blue and white enameling and
mother-of-pearl all set in gold tone, total length 3-3/4" and 1-3/4" wide on
a newer 24" chain. The detail is lovely and the piece beautifully made.
View
View #Q33281 |
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style pieces
marked Czechoslovakia
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN Revival
brooch with pendant loop, rose cabochons, blue rhinestones and pearl
inserts, 1-5/8".
View #Q28382 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style (but probably Czech) simulated cameo necklace with orange glass
cabochons, green beads, purple rhinestones and white enameling, 16"
necklace with 3-1/2" drop, circa 1920.
View
View
View #Q25010 |
CZECH
"CzechoSlovakia" marked multi-colored enameled and rhinestone 3-1/3" pendant 22"
chain reminiscent of the Austro-Hungarian style, circa 1930s. View
#Q25337 |
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CZECH cameo necklace and bracelet
with purple glass cabochons, chartreuse green enamel, and faux cameos.
View
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View
View
View #U5625 |
CZECH style pink and
green enameled necklace with pink cabochons, 24" chain 3" pendant. See
Czech pendants in Carole Tanenbaum’s "Fabulous Fakes" on pages 54-55.
View
#Q20905 |
PURPLE
enamel and
cabochon pendant with rhinestone accents set in gold tone.
View
View
View
View #Q17275 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN STYLE PIECES
by other 20th Century Makers
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CORAL Austro-Hungarian
Revival style screw-back earrings, each different, with aqua and orange
glass stones and white enameling, the right is 2-1/4" by 1-1/4"
and the
left is 2-1/8" by 1-1/3". Notice that while they look great together,
each earring is slightly different.
View
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View #Q29738 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style
blue, green, purple and red enamel and rhinestone necklace, with green
cabochon center, 19" chain with a 3-1/2" pendant, circa 1920.
View #Q25009 |
AUSTRO
Hungarian Revival style red white and black enameled, red rhinestone and
artificial pearl 7" by 3/4" bracelet, early 1900s. This shows the distinctive
white enamel with delicate brushwork like the Transylvanian technique, wonderful
detail. (See Moro’s
"European Designer Jewelry" page 178).
View View
View #Y25070 |
HOBE red
and green cabochons, enamel and seed pearls 1-1/4" brooch and 1" earrings in
original box, circa 1950.
View
View #O27309 |
HOBE
Austro-Hungarian revival gold tone
and multi colored enamel, cabochons and rhinestones 23" necklace with a
3-1/2" pendant and 1-1/4" earrings, circa 1950.
View
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View #O26767 |
HOBE enameled and cabochons 18-1/2"
necklace with 1-1/8" pendant and 1-1/8" earrings, marked only on earring
backs. View
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View
#O31108 |
HOBE Austro-Hungarian Revival style
pendant with blue, green and white enamel, green rhinestones and green and
topaz cabochons 19" chain and total 3" pendant and 1-1/8" clip back
earrings. View
View
View #O36001 |
HOBE Austro-Hungarian revival matte
gold tone pendant necklace with rose cabochons, green rhinestones and
artificial pearls accented by red and white enamel and tiny blue dots,
necklace 17" long, pendant 2-3/4" wide. There is missing and slightly
cracked enamel but it can only be seen under a 10x loupe.
View
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View #O34516 |
HOBE Austro-Hungarian revival fringed pendant and earrings,
black enamel on gold tone with aqua marbled cabochons, artificial pearls and
rose cabochons, chain 19-1/2", total front drop 3-3/4", earrings 1-1/8".
View #O35637 |
HOBE bracelet with red, blue and
white enameling, blue cabochons and imitation pearls, gold tone chains and
fittings, wearable length 6-5/8" and 1-7/8" wide at the front.
View
View #O36767 |
HOBE necklace and bracelet with
green, yellow and white enameling, green cabochons and imitation pearls,
gold tone chains and fittings, necklace 18-1/2" wearable length and with a
2-3/4" drop, bracelet wearable length 6-5/8" and 1-7/8" wide at the front.
A similar piece can be seen in the book "Masterpieces of Costume Jewelry" by
Ball & Torem page 103 where this style is called the "Old World Art"
collection. View
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View #O36769 |
HOBE Austro-Hungarian style locket
with blue, red and white enamel and blue cabochons 20" chain and 3/4" by
1-1/8" locket with fittings inside for photos but no plastic covers.
View
View #O35475 |
HOBE brooch with green glass
cabochon, artificial pearls and enameling in red, white and black, 5
dangles, all set in matte gold tone, 2-1/4" by 2-1/4", some slight wear on 2
pearls. View #O37178 |
HOBE green and blue cabochons, artificial
pearls and black, white and yellow enamel earrings set in gold tone filigree
backs, 1". View #H34307 |
ARCANSAS
Austro-Hungarian style
red glass cabochons and rhinestones with tiny aqua beads and white enameling earrings
marked on the back "Arcansas" and "946". Arcansas
jewelry was made in the 1950s and 1960s by Elizabeth Reimer, a Hungarian
immigrant in Sydney, Australia. Her parents had been in the fine jewelry
business. View
View #Y25072 |
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style white,
aqua and yellow
enameled and red rhinestones bracelet marked "Arcansas" and "897", 7" by
1-1/3". Though it is mid-20th century, this revives the distinctive
white enamel with delicate brushwork typical of the older Transylvanian
technique. See Moro’s "European Designer Jewelry" page 178.
I have recently learned that Arcansas jewelry was made in the 1950s and 1960s by
Elizabeth Reimer, a Hungarian immigrant in Sydney, Australia. Her parents had
been in the fine jewelry business. She employed mostly women who, she thought,
had more delicate hands. The work on her jewelry is certainly delicate and
wonderful.
View
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View #Q25035 |
AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN style
blue, green, purple and red enamel and rhinestone necklace, with green
cabochon center, 19" chain with a 3-1/2" pendant, circa 1920.
View #Q25009
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HOLLYCRAFT brooch sterling vermeil
Austro-Hungarian revival style 2-1/8" by 3-1/4" brooch with aqua
glass and
red, green and clear rhinestones with artificial pearl accents and
enameling, circa 1946. This brooch is by John H. Hazard for Hollywood Jewelry
(Hollycraft), patent number 144,711.
View #Y24896
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AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN Revival sterling
earrings with red and green rhinestones and artificial pearls, 7/8".
View #Q33976 |
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REFERENCES:
"European Designer Jewelry", Chapter 5, by Ginger Moro
"Warman’s Jewelry" Edition 3, by Christie Romero
See Austro-Hungarian jewelry in Carole Tanenbaum’s "Fabulous Fakes" on
page 17.
Renaissance Jewels & Jeweled Objects published in 1968
by the Baltimore Museum of Art. The book catalogues the Melvin Gutman
Collection.
To read more about the history of Austro-Hungary 1867-1918 you can click
HERE to go to Wiki.
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