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Dating Rings, Victorian to 1930s | 
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Late 1700s to
1840s
It is always fun when a ring is inscribed with a
date, taking the guess work out of circa dating. Although jewelry is
sometimes seen with a much later inscription than when it was actually
made, that is not the norm.
Rings from the early 1800s that are not dated may also have features to help identify them. Stones
in that period were often set in a close-backed mounting, and sometimes
foiled as well. Stones in the rings could also be set in a silver head
with a karat gold band and rose cut diamonds, all typical of this time
period. Hair and memorial rings were worn by both men and women. |
GEORGIAN Stuart crystal
ring with gold wire cipher on the inside, size 9-1/2, stone is 1/2" by 1/2".
The crystal is a faceted octagon with a tiny layer of hair under the bottom
and a dash of rose pink coloring.
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View #V33264 | GEORGIAN 12 karat yellow gold
double serpent ring
with rose cut diamond center in a closed back setting, circa 1810-1830, size 9-1/2,
weight 4.664 grams. The diamond is set in a pinched silver collet rim and the scale
design wraps around the entire ring. The diamond is 3.3 to 3.6 mm,
difficult to measure in this setting. The color is a foil backed light
brown and it has a tiny broken edge visible only under magnification. View
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View #V34580 | GEORGIAN 10 karat gold and
foil backed rose cut diamonds by-pass ring with two rose cut diamonds, one 4.2 x
4.8 mm, one 4.1 x 4.9 mm, and six 2.1 to 2.4 mm diamonds; clarity S1 to I-1, color foil
backed with slight tint, total weight 2.241 grams. This ring is a size 9, and is
7/16" along the finger at the front and the band is 1/8" wide at the back. Circa 1800-1820, the the two larger diamonds are set in pinched collet rims. View
View #V34571 |
GEORGIAN or
VICTORIAN high domed rock crystal cabochon ring with reverse carved and
painted robin bird on a branch with oak leaves. The setting also has has three
leaves in gold on each side of the center cabochon. The ring is a size 9 and
3/4" along the finger, the cabochon is a very deep 1/3" with some scratching
visible under magnification, some paint missing inside as can be seen in the
photos. The band, which may be later-added, is hallmarked for 9ct gold, "375",
maker "T&S", "9 375 R" in a hexagon mark, cabochon tests as rock crystal, band
tests 10k, cabochon setting tests 14k. NOTE: That is my windows reflected in the
left side of the dome. This is reflective and seems to almost glow from inside the
dome. View
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View #V37432 | GEORGIAN 15 carat ring with
hair underneath crystal, initials "AC" made of tiny pearls and woven hair
under the crystal front, which is surrounded by seed pearls, and engraved on
the back "Alice Coleman, obt 10 Jan’y 1795, at 39", size 9-3/4, 3/4" across
front. It comes in a box from the well-known shop "Cameo Corner Ltd., 26
Museum Street, London WCI.
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View #V33339 | VICTORIAN 10-14k Tassie cameo portrait
of "Mad" King George II, (1738-1820), size 5 and 3/4" by 5/8" along the finger.
This material for making cameos was invented by James Tassie late 18th
century. The blue coloring at 3 o’clock on the ring is probably a manufacturing
error at the time it was made since the blue color is also under the top layer of
the white cameo, seen from the side. The total weight is about .26 ounces. Hallmarks on the band are crown 375 tiger face and cursive "D"
maker’s mark "B G", band tests 10k, front tests 14k, so I am thinking it is
possible that he band may not be original to the ring. There are no other signs
that it was ever anything else, though. View
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View #V37534 |
VICTORIAN 18 carat yellow gold early
1800s
ring with central diamond, four pearls and black enamel, size 7-3/4.
View
View #V32118 | GEORGIAN memorial hair ring
with pearl surround and blonde hair. Size 7-1/4 and engraved, "
Joseph Dixon died 16th Jan.y 1815 aged 50".
Engraving #V15165 | GEORGIAN 18k yellow gold
and banded agate memorial ring, hallmarked London, engraved "Michael Simpson
died 12 July 1835 Age 40 Years" and dated 1835, size 7-1/4, as is.
View
View #K29309 |
GEORGIAN 9 karat yellow gold,
seed pearl and hair mourning ring inscribed "En. Thornton obt 8 Nov 1802 at 54".
That makes it over 200 years old! The size is 8-3/4 and it is 1/2" along the
finger at the front. Total weight about .13 ounces. There are scratches on the
crystal, visible under magnification, but the braided hair can be easily seen
through it. What a treasure from another age.
View
View #V36262 | GEORGIAN 14 karat gold hair ring on blue enamel with seed pearls
and hair bows under glass, engraved "WC ob 5
Sept 1790 at 74", with original box, It is set above blue foil or blue
enamel, even under magnification it is hard to tell which. Fabulous detail
and design in this 220-year-old ring. The size is 7-3/4 and it is 1-1/4"
along the finger. It came to me in it’s own little blue ring box. View
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View #V35889 | VICTORIAN 1842 ring with
diamonds in a flower shape set on blue enamel in 15 carat yellow gold, hallmarked for 1842 London and
marked "WE" for William Eaton and the number "8", size 9-1/2 and 1/2" along the
finger. This is Georgian in style and is dated just 5 year after the
Georgian reign. View
#V35959 |
Circa 1860 to
1890
Jewelry catalogues came into vogue along with the
mass production of jewelry. Looking at the illustrations and written
descriptions is a definitive way to date pieces. Hair jewelry was still
popular and could be fashioned as a home craft or ordered from
catalogues. Taille
d’epargne enamel work became very popular, as did mosaic and Mizpah rings.
Jewelry of this era can be a bit heavier and more somber that later
jewelry. |
VICTORIAN memorial ring in gold with black enameling marked "SH
Chamberlaine Ob 23AUG1866" around the outside and engraved inside, size
7-1/2. See "Warman’s Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 36. Another ring
similar to this can be seen in "Jewels & Jewelry" by Clare Phillips on page
140-3 and in Becker’s "Antique & Twentieth Century Jewelry" on page 54,. View
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View #V25015 | VICTORIAN 14k ring with woven
hair inside, size 7-1/4. See Bell’s "Collector’s Encyclopedia of Hairwork
Jewelry" page 185.
View #V15458
View Victorian
hair ring as shown in the A. Bernhard
&
Co. Catalogue, 1870 | VICTORIAN hair ring with
shield front, size 9-1/4. #V21550 |
VICTORIAN taille
d’epargne black enamel and seed pearl ring,
rectangular shape with seed pearl, circa 1870. View
#V3495 | VICTORIAN 18k yellow gold micro mosaic doves
ring, 3/4" front, size 7.
View #V27582 | VICTORIAN 10k yellow gold
garnet and seed pearl ring in original box, size 6, 1/2" at front,
circa 1880.
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View #G29710 |
| VICTORIAN 18 karat yellow
gold "I Cling to Thee" ring with a cross motif in diamonds, hallmarked
Chester England 1884 and maker marked "BHJ", weighs about .13ozs. A
beautiful sentiment on a beautiful and unusual ring.
View
View #V36310 | |
VICTORIAN 14k white and yellow
gold pierced square topped ring with diamond chips and center ruby.
View #G25981 | VICTORIAN ring with
an emerald, a sapphire and a diamond, circa 1880, very faint remains of
engraved date and initials inside the band.
View
View #G22937 | VICTORIAN 18k
yellow gold ring with .59ct total weight rubies and .35ct total weight diamonds,
size 7.
View #G28479 |
VICTORIAN sterling silver Mizpah ring
hallmarked Birmingham 1882-3, size 7-1/4, 1/4" across front and gently
tapering back to 3-16" at back.
View #V31541 | VICTORIAN sterling silver
hand made mizpah ring, hallmarked "P&T", Birmingham, 1862, size 8, 1/4" wide
at front and 1/8" wide at back.
View
View #V31337 | PEARL cross-over ring,
circa 1910. #Gco |
RING 9k
and black enameled ring initial "J", circa 1890, size 6-3/4.
#G21551 | "Fine solid gold and stone rings".
E.V. Roddin Catalogue,
1887-1889 |
VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold amethyst ring with inset rose and diamond,
size 7-1/4. View
#G28037
"Real amethyst, diamond inlaid".
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VICTORIAN Masonic Knights Templar "In Hoc Signo Vinces" (In this sign
conquer) ring marked inside, "Princes, Patn Aug-26-90". Size
7-3/4.
View #G21484 | VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold ring with purple stone and seed pearls,
size 8.
View #G27827 | RING 14 yellow gold ring,
long-ways mounted garnet with seed pearls, engraved inside "George to Lilly
G., 8-1878", size 6-1/4 and measures 1/2" across the front.
View
View #K31783 |
Circa 1890 to
1910
Just like fashion and dresses of the time, jewelry of this era becomes
lighter and more delicate. Cabochons, Bohemian garnets, buckle motifs,
signet rings, embossed bands and somewhat more delicate settings can be
seen in the catalogues. |
RING Victorian 14k tested
yellow gold, diamond and ruby buckle motif ring, size 11-1/2, 1/8" to 1/4"
wide. #G50997 | VICTORIAN 9ct buckle ring dated 1898. See
Luthi’s Sentimental Jewelry page 32.
View #G24203 | VICTORIAN ring, 14k yellow gold
band with rubies and diamonds, size 6-3/4, 1-3" wide.
View #G25959 |
VICTORIAN 14k
red and green cabochons ring, embossed design, circa 1900, size 8-1/4.
View #G20897 | Men’s seal, garnet and opal rings.
14k birth month rings, all real stones. Priced in the catalogue from $1.60 to
$18.00 each.
Daniel Low
& Co., 1901 | GARNET
cabochon pinky ring with embossed sides, circa 1890.
View #G22930 |
18k YELLOW GOLD
band with gypsy set diamond, engraved inside "AJK" for my
grandmother, Agnes Jeanette King", circa 1910.
View
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#Gajk | VICTORIAN
signet ring
with the initials "JHC", circa 1900.
View
View #G22936 | 14 K yellow gold heavy signet ring engraved
"D/C/G ?", size 9, measures 11/16" across the face, circa
1890.
View #G23362 |
RING yellow gold, opals,
diamonds and seed pearl ring, size 8.
View #G29423 | RING 14k tested yellow gold and
opal ring, three oval stones, circa 1900, size 7-1/2, opal portion 1/4" by
1/2". View
#G50991/5 | 14K yellow gold Edwardian ring with opals and mine cut
diamonds, size 7-1/8. View
#G28762 |
Girls rings, boys rings, baby rings.
Signet rings, highly carved and plain designs. Priced in the catalogue
from $ .75 to $16.00 each.
Daniel Low
& Co., 1901 | SIGNET 14k
yellow gold ring with medical "Caducaus" entwined snake, size 5-3/4.
View #K23878 | 10k "Solid gold" finger rings. Priced in the catalogue from $1.50 to
$25.00 each.
Daniel Low
& Co., 1901 |
RING
14k gold morning glory embossed size 3-3/4 ring.
View #K24930 | FINE solid gold 10k plump engraved band rings.
All rings with the letter "A" prefixed to number are 8K fine.
A.C. Becken Catalogue, 1902 | VICTORIAN 10k yellow gold
wedding band size 8-1/2. This style is sometimes called "cigar band" rings. #G23204 |
EDWARDIAN 14k
yellow gold amethyst and seed pearl ring, circa 1910, size 5-1/2.
View #G26297 |
EDWARDIAN 14k yellow gold ruby and diamond ring, circa 1910, size 7-3/4.
View #G26295
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EDWARDIAN 14k yellow gold sapphire and seed pearl ring, circa 1910, size 7-1/2.
View #G26299
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VICTORIAN silver ring with rose gold overlay rose and green gold
overlay leaves, size 8-12 and 3/4" along the finger.
View #V36612
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Persian
turquoise is a turquoise with no matrix at all. It was very popular in
the Victorian era and even into the early 20th Century. Often set in
karat yellow or rose gold, the designs were almost endless, as you can see from the
selection below. If you are looking for some Persian turquoise jewelry
to purchase, please
CLICK HERE. |
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VICTORIAN 9ct turquoise and seed
pearls ring, heart-shaped with links band design, size 7-1/4.
View #G33103 | VICTORIAN girl’s
Persian turquoise ring and gold filled thimble in original fitted box. This
would have bee a lovely gift for a young girl.
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View #V32850 | VICTORIAN turquoise and seed
pearls ring, crescent with three stones, size 6-1/4.
View
View #G33104 |
VICTORIAN Persian turquoise ring with two turquoise half-cabochons
offset with two pearls, marked "14k" inside the band, size 5.
View
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#V39817 | VICTORIAN Persian turquoise ring in an eye shape with tiny seed pearls all
around, engraved with initials "E. J. P." and hallmarked "H&S" for the
maker, and "10k". It has been sized in the past and is now a size 8-1/4.
View
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#V39818 | VICTORIAN Persian turquoise ring with a yin-yang
design accented with two seed pearls, one illegible stamped mark, tests as
karat gold, size 6-7/8 and runs just shy of 1/2" along the finger.
View
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#V39816 |
VICTORIAN Persian turquoise and diamond ring in a 15 karat yellow
gold setting, size 6 and 1/4" along the finger. It has a .10 ct old mine cut
diamond in a bloomed gold finished setting, circa 1880s. One each side there is a dainty etched designs
and around the little turquoises are pierced holes. The front is set
like a little forget-me-not flowers which symbolizes remembrance.
View
View #V37697
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VICTORIAN Persian turquoise and seed pearl ring set in 9 carat
yellow gold, stones are prong set with a leaf on each side of the
center. This is hallmarked for Birmingham, England, 9 carat gold and
while I cannot make out the date letter, these are generally circa
1880’s. It is a size 8-1/2 and is about 3/8" along the finger. The front
is set like a little forget-me-not flowers which symbolize remembrance.
View
View #V37983
| VICTORIAN
9k rose cut diamonds and Persian turquoise ring with
elongated shape, circa late 1800s, size 5-3/4 and runs 1" along the finger and it 1/4" at the
widest. There are 22 rose cut diamonds of about .15tw.
View
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#V39813 |
VICTORIAN
10k Persian turquoise, garnet and seed pearls ring in a rose gold
setting, size 6-1/2 and 1/2" wide as it lays on the finger, and it
weighs .06 ozs. It’s a lovely
design and has decoration on each shoulder as well. This will come in
a brand new square ring box in this same style, but the one that is shown is
for display only.
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#G39760 | VICTORIAN 15k Persian turquoise ring with a scroll on each side of the row
of stones, each having an etched design, size 7-1/2. It does test 15 karat gold and is in otherwise very good
vintage condition, and it weighs .06 ozs. This will come in a brand new square ring box
in this same style, but the one that is shown is for display only.
View
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View #V39789 | VICTORIAN 15k Persian turquoise ring with the forget-me-not flower shape in
the middle and a pearl on each side, size 8 and 5/16" wide at the
front. It has had the back of the band professionally
replaced at some time in the past, but the maker’s marks remain and say "WJG" and "15" for 15 karat gold.
The forget-me-not symbolized eternal love or friendship.
View
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View #V39790 |
VICTORIAN 9ct turquoise and seed
pearls ring, heart-shaped with links band design, size 7-1/4.
View #G33103 | VICTORIAN girl’s
Persian turquoise ring and gold filled thimble in original fitted box. This
would have bee a lovely gift for a young girl.
View
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View #V32850 | VICTORIAN turquoise and seed
pearls ring, crescent with three stones, size 6-1/4.
View
View #G33104 |
Circa 1910-1930
The popularity of platinum and white gold, and
with it filigree work, set the tone for this era. Also popular were
unusually-shaped stones, rubies and sapphires as well as diamonds. |
FILIGREE 19k white gold
filigree ring with approximately 1/3 ct diamond center, broken sapphire
sides, size 6-1/2. View #V31478 | 14k DIAMOND
white gold filigree approximately .25 ct diamond ring, size 5-1/4.
View #G23958 | EDWARDIAN platinum
tested 1-1/6" wide band set all around with tiny single cut diamonds, size 7-1/2. #V31479 |
DATE RING14k white gold filigree date ring for 1927. This ring has a
tiny diamond between the numbers "9" and "2", and it’s a size 5-1/2,
marked inside the band "14k". The black center part could
be onyx or black glass.
View
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#V39836 | EDWARDIAN Deco platinum and 18k white gold ring that is set with 15 Old European
Cut diamonds. The ring is an elongated shield shape with 3 diamonds stacked
vertically and surrounded with a halo of diamonds. It is finished with a
delicate milgrain edging around each diamond and a hand engraved wheat
pattern on the shank shoulders. It is marked inside the band, "Platinum, A*,
18K". it weighs 2.2 dw (3.5 grams) and the total diamond weight is 0.80
carats, color I-L, clarity VS 2 to SI I.
View
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#K39664 |
DECO 18 karat white gold filigree ring with blue and clear sapphires,
marked inside "18k". The total weight is 2.16 grams(.076 ounces).
It is a size 6-1/2 and 3/16"
wide at the front. Each side has an engraved flower and leaf on the shoulder. There are
microscopic flea bites on some of the blue sapphire edges, invisible to the naked eye and
hard to see even with my 5x camera lens, but mentioned for accuracy.
View
View #V38893
|
FILIGREE 14k white gold
filigree ring with rubies and a small diamond, circa 1910, size 6-1/2,
measures 7/8" across front.
View #G32342 |
EDWARDIAN 14k white gold filigree ring with keystone shaped rubies,
marked "14k" inside the band, circa 1910, size 5-1/4, measures 3/4"
across front. View
#G26300
| DECO 14k white gold ring
with rubies and diamonds ring, size 6-1/2. Hallmarked "ECI" inside
the band.
View #G28480 |
BOHEMIAN garnets ring, 14k
yellow gold band and oval cabochon with surrounding rose cut garnets set in
brass top, ring size 5, 3/4" long at the front. Wonderful color.
View
View #G32166 | BOHEMIAN garnets set in 10k
yellow gold pinkie ring, illegible hallmark inside, size 3-3/4.
View #G31380 | RING of Bohemian garnets in
gilt setting, size 7-1/2.
View
View #G29424 |
DECO 18 karat white gold ring
Asscher cut diamond ring with small sapphires and hand-engraved detailing, size
6, total weight 3.684 grams. The center natural diamond is an estimated weight
of 2.25 carats, I-1 and M-N color. Seven square cut synthetic blue sapphires are
mounted on the sides, as well as one natural sapphire that was a
later replacement. View
View
View #V34446 | "Special Order Work".
JR Wood & Sons, 1919 Catalogue, Page 55 | 10k diamond
yellow gold filigree ring, size 6-1/4. #G17545 |
14k GOLD signet ring with nude lady
on each side, initials engraved on top.
View | "Signet rings in 10k and 14k gold."
JR Wood & Sons, 1919 Catalogue,
Page 119 | VICTORIAN
14k gold ring with three gypsy-set diamonds, size 9-3/4.
View #G21499
SIGNET RING Gold shell (gold filled) with shield shaped front, not
engraved. It is a size 10-1/4, and has scrolls designs on the shank.
#G6246
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Cameo and
Intaglio Rings
Dating cameo rings can be facilitated by both the
setting and the carving of the pieces. Classic faces, harking back to
Greek and Roman mythology, characterize many rings of this period.
Comparing the settings with other Victorian rings also helps determine
age. |
VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold
hard stone cameo ring (one side with tiny chip) with diamonds, size 8-1/4.
View #K28038 | "Real stone cameo" ring Roddin Catalog circa 1910 | VICTORIAN 14k yellow gold
black and white cameo ring, size 8-1/2.
View #K28039 |
CAMEO ring,
a family piece brought back from Italy after WWI. This classic style goes
back to Victorian times.
View
View #G22928 | CORAL 10k
yellow gold ring with coral cameo, 1-1/8" by 1/2" front, circa
1900. A ring like this can be seen on page 65 of Romero’s Warman’s
Jewelry, Ed. 3 on page 65.
View #G50651 | VICTORIAN large and unusual shell cameo
of a lady holding a torch set in 10k yellow gold (tested) ring, marked inside "JHW 901 __
core", size
6-1/2.
View
View #G29636 |
10K
yellow gold purple intaglio ring, size 8-1/2.
View #G25980 | "Fine solid gold and stone rings."
Onyx, Intaglio, Cameo, Amethyst, Blood Stone, Tiger Eye
Note the wide decorated shanks and heavier look of these rings.
E.V. Roddin Catalogue,
1887-1889 | 14K
yellow gold oval intaglio Edwardian ring, circa 1910, size 7.
View #G50474 |
RING 14k yellow gold and carnelian intaglio
ring depicting "Justice" holding her scales, an unusual motif, size 8-1/4
it is 3/4"
at the widest point on the front.
View #G31973 | VICTORIAN karat gold and
intaglio signet ring, size 6-3/4, 1/2" front.
View #V29841 | CAMEO ring, plastic cameo and marcasites set in silver tone jeweler’s metal,
circa 1930. View #Y60640 |
Modern Rings in
Vintage Styles
Both the rings below are 1960-1990 settings, and
both have older centerpieces. The Japanese "kashira" and the Old
European cut diamond date to the 1800s. With the popularity of vintage
styles, many new rings are available with the older stones and
settings…. filigrees, older diamond cuts and even all-out
reproductions. Here is where the privilege of handling many older pieces
many be the best way to determine dates as some of the copies are very
convincing. There is of course nothing wrong with buying vintage style
rings… the diamond below belonged to my grandmother and I wanted it
set with a period flair… but it is good to know which is genuinely old
and which modern. |
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JAPANESE 10k yellow gold shank
and base ring with Japanese Samuri sword kashira with gilt carved dragon
motif, ring size 7-1/2. The kashira which is probably comprised of copper and a
small amount of gold, measures 1-1/3" by 2/3"wide.
View
View #G29510 | 14k GOLD and
approximately 1 ct. Old European cut diamond ring in antique style 14k yellow and white gold setting.
Diamond is circa 1900, setting is a contemporary one in a vintage style.
View
ViewView
#Glkh | |
By custom, wedding rings are worn on the
third finger of the left hand. In the 1856 book "Inquire
Within for Anything You Want to Know" by G.G. Evans, two explanations
are given for this custom. One goes back to Roman times, when a ring was
worn on the fourth finger of the left hand because it was believed that
a nerve ran from there to the heart. In Christian custom, the third
finger symbolizes the Trinity. |
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