Juliana Jewelry

Morning Glory Antiques &
Jewelry presents
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JEWEL CHAT
Costume Jewelry Magazine

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"JULIANA" JEWELRY
1960’s

What is it?

Juliana jewelry has a look that is collected for it’s
terrific colors, colorful glass stones, and a showy presentation.

Juliana jewelry was marked, if at all, by paper
hang-tags only. This same style also came with other hang-tags,
though, so while we refer to it as "Juliana style", it was actually made
in the 1960’s by DeLizza & Elster (William DeLizza & Harold Elster, New York City, NY) and sold
along with a variety of their designs to other
jewelry companies. Two of the other paper hang tags seen on this
type of jewelry are "Gloria" and "Tara".

The term Juliana is used as descriptive of
a certain look and style of jewelry. As Shakespear said, "A rose by any other name would smell
as sweet", and this is one of the best roses in the costume jewelry
garden!

JULIANA
unsigned unfoiled cobalt rhinestones and aurora borealis glitter in this
16-1/2 inch necklace and matching 7 inch long and 1 inch wide bracelet, all
done in silver tone. VIEW

VIEW

These are examples of the kind of jewelry seen with the Juliana hang tags. The stones are a combination of foiled
and unfoiled, and are usually larger mixed with smaller stones. The assembly on the back of both the bracelet and the necklace is their
typical 5-link style.
So far, we have seen no Juliana marks that are incised into necklaces,
bracelets or brooches.

Also typical of JULIANA pieces is the
"watermelon" rhinestone, a multi-hued glass stone with a rainbow effect
which can come in many different colors.

JULIANA green
and purple "watermelon" rhinestones 7" bracelet and 1-1/4" earrings.
View
View #J16479

According to Pam Wiggins, "they’re
called ‘watermelon’ because the stones resemble the natural
watermelon tourmaline. It’s green around the edges and bright pink at the
center. At least that’s what I’ve always been told. And after seeing a
real watermelon tourmaline, it made perfect sense!"

Again, the backs of the bracelet and the brooch shown are typical.

JULIANA EARRING BACK on a set orange and green painted cabochons and rhinestones earrings,
1-1/2″. View
#J26145

JULIANA style
BROOCH and EARRING BACKS in a set of honey colored glass rose cameos and rhinestones
2-1/2" brooch and 1-1/4" earrings.
View
View #J27962

PINK Juliana
EARRING BACKS in a set of rhinestone
and aurora dangles earrings, 2-5/8"".
View #Y26470

"Painted" or "speckled" large center cabochons are another
common element found in Juliana pieces. These types of stones came colors
including orange,
pinks, red, purple, blue and two shades of green.
JULIANA style
Easter egg oval brooch in aqua and pink rhinestones and aurora set in gold
tone, 2-1/2".
View #J27442

This Juliana style bracelet and brooch show the typical fabulous
colors… when seen in person, these stones ripple with a rainbow of
color! JULIANA style rose
and blue watermelon rhinestone bracelet and brooch, circa 1960. (Seen in
Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 202.)
View
View
View
#J12916

Over the years, many of these faceted crystal
beaded sets in several colors have come through the shop. Some were
marked with Juliana hang tags, some with no tag, but this is the only
one I have ever seen with a Regency hang tag.

The orange "painted" set is probably the most
well-know of all the Juliana pieces. Interestingly enough, this is one of
the sets that I have had unmarked by any tag at all, marked with Juliana
tags, and also marked with "Gloria" tags. I
have also had these stones in jewelry marked Jeanne, but the style was
very different.

This group came with a wide variety of shapes and sizes of brooches, plus at least
three different necklaces. For a long time, I collected ANY piece that
used this stone, just to see how many there were. My pocketbook gave out
long before the variations did!

Juliana style necklace and earrings with "Gloria" tag, but I have had
them with Juliana and Tara tags, too. Necklace 14-1/2", round brooch
2-1/2", oval brooch 2-1/4" by 2", round earrings on card 1-1/3", oval
earrings 1-1/4", circa 1960. (Seen in Christie Romero’s "Warman’s
Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 209.)
View
View
View
View
View
View . JULIANA
style
grand parure, necklace and earrings with
GLORIA tags.

Here is an example of a Julian brooch and
earrings set, shown both front and back.

This set is NOT Juliana, but is often
confused with it. It is much lighter in weight, and with the riveted
construction not as well made, but does
sometimes use similar colors and stones.

Many thanks to Cheryl Kilmer of PAST
PERFECT VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY for sharing her
personal collection of Juliana style jewelry (above and below). It’s an
amazing variety of stones and colors, and all are magnificent!

Cheryl says, "Here are some of the bracelets I pulled out of my
Juliana cache. The fold-over clasp is an indication of the Juliana style.
Jane’s photos showed you the back side (the links) very well, so these
photos are just the fronts. The more of this style that is
handled and viewed, the easier it is to recognize it and easier to
recognize the matching pieces to the bracelets without actually having the
bracelets."

And lest you are feeling smugly confident that you now can recognize
a Juliana easily, Cheryl has snuck in a ringer! Look in the picture in the
center… the bracelet at the bottom is a Schiaparelli!

Cheryl defines characteristics of the Juliana style,
"The bracelets have five links and most of the ones I own have a
rounded rectangular link on top of which are mounted the rhinestones
although a few have an oval link. All kinds of beautiful
"stones" were used, art glass, rivoli, "carved fruit",
watermelon, faux hematite, crystal beads, aurora borealis, Mexican
"opals", etc. The connector links do have an etched design
and, except for a couple of what I consider to be the older ones, almost
all of mine have safety chains.

"All sizes and shapes of rhinestones were used, navettes, skinny
navettes, chatons, pears, keystones. Aurora borealis were used to
add a little fillip to a bracelet of all one color or shades of one color.
Color combinations were striking — pinks with purple, purple with teal,
orange, green and pink together. Metals were gold tone, silver tone,
gunmetal and in one case, pinky/purple japanning — striking. The
stones themselves were good quality.

"Many styles were replicated in several colors and metals. Most
of the stones were four pronged or pasted in although there may be the
occasional ‘dog tooth’ prong.

The similar characteristics does not mean that a manufacturer
didn’t sell the findings to different companies who then set their own
rhinestones into them and sold them with or without hang tags. After
collecting 180 bracelets I have only found three paper-tagged Juliana and
one a clamper — another mystery."

JULIANA EARRING BACK on a set orange and green painted cabochons and rhinestones earrings,
1-1/2″. View
#J26145

JULIANA style
EARRING BACKS in a set of honey colored glass rose cameos and rhinestones
2-1/2" brooch and 1-1/4" earrings.
View
View #J27962

PINK Juliana
EARRINGS BACKS in a set of rhinestone
and aurora dangles earrings, 2-5/8"".
View #Y26470

GLORIA Juliana style necklace and earrings with
"Gloria" tag, but I have had them with Juliana and Tara tags, too. Necklace
14-1/2", round brooch 2-1/2", oval brooch 2-1/4" by 2", round earrings on
card 1-1/3", oval earrings 1-1/4".
View
JULIANA
grand parure.

JULIANA hang tag

GLORIA hang tag

TARA mark

TARA hang tag

TARA hang tag on necklace

GLORIA tan, orange and
peacock glass beads 17" 4-strand necklace with original tag.
View
View #J23231

The connection between Juliana, Gloria and Tara is this
style of orange "painted" cabochons set. I have found different pieces of
this set marked with these three names at different times over the years.

JULIANA was marked
on foil hang tags.
GLORIA was also a hang tag mark.
View Tara was marked on the pieces themselves. These marks also appear on other jewelry.

TARA pink sculpted pink
iridescent glass and aurora borealis 13-15" necklace. #J24717

This necklace is a reminder that not all jewelry with the
Tara mark is "Juliana" in style.

JULIANA style
green cat’s eye cabochons and rhinestones bracelet and earrings
View
View
View
#9298

JULIANA style rose
and blue watermelon rhinestone bracelet and brooch
View
View
View
#J12916

JULIANA
style
blue and green rivoli butterfly pin
View
#J5009

JULIANA
style topaz rhinestones and celery aurora bracelet and earrings
#J11079

JULIANA Although unsigned, these pieces feature fabulous art glass stones and
dazzling colors. If it looks like these… it
NEEDS no signature!

JULIANA
style grand
parure in speckled orange and green cabochons
View
View
View
View
View

JULIANA
style
grand parure.

JULIANA style brown, green and orange
watermelon rhinestones brooch and earrings
View
View #J12956

JULIANA "Easter Egg" art glass cabochons, purple and aurora rhinestones 2-1/3"
brooch. View #J29380

JULIANA "Easter Egg" art glass cabochons, purple and aurora rhinestones
16" necklace, 2-1/3" brooch and 1-1/3" earrings.
View
View
View
View
View
#J29379

JULIANA style bracelet with
iridescent carved flowers.
View
#J19864

JULIANA style red marquis,
aurora rhinestone and faux pearl necklace, brooch and earrings.
View #J12108

JULIANA style red
and lavender rhinestone and aurora brooch.
View
View #J19728

JULIANA style red and lavender aurora borealis rhinestone brooch and
matching
bracelet that is not made in the usual Juliana style. View
View
#J20298

JULIANA style blue and
green rhinestone and aurora borealis dazzle in this 14-16 inch necklace
and 1-1/4 inch earrings all set in silver tone. This is Classic Juliana!
View View
View
#J18811

JULIANA
style blue and green rhinestone and aurora borealis 7" bracelet.
#J9087

JULIANA style bracelets, all 7" long, and the width,
starting at the top, are:

3/4", 1-1/4"
1", 1-1/2"

JULIANA
style pastel beads and rhinestones 7" bracelet.
View
View #J20213

JULIANA style
pastel blue and chartreuse brooch with painted dots set in gold tone 2".
View #J19713

JULIANA pink
frosted rhinestones 2-1/3" pin and 1-1/3" earrings set in gold tone.
View
View #J19742

JULIANA
style pink aurora and bead 2-3/4" pin and 1-1/3" earrings.
View #J20205

JULIANA style green,
topaz and orange colored rivoli 2-1/2" pin and 1" earrings.
View #J19766

Cheryl Kilmer of PAST
PERFECT VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY shares these wonderful Juliana
style pieces from her own collection.

JULIANA pink and blue
"painted" cabochon set.
All Courtesy of

JULIANA pink parure.

JULIANA blue marbled stones
create a fabulous style.

JULIANA in red and
aurora borealis.

JULIANA
in grays and aurora.

JULIANA at their unusual
best… green glory!

Jeanie Reed of JEANIE
IN CAMELOT shares these wonderful Juliana style pieces from her
own research. When you see this color, quality and style, do you wonder
why so many collect this jewelry?

Thanks to Marilyn Ostrow, who shares these
wonderful Juliana style pieces from her collection.

JULIANA blue
"painted" cabochons in another color variation to the more
common orange and green set shown on page 1 of this article.

JULIANA This is a
slightly unusual set for Juliana. It has iridescent glass flowers and is a
bit narrower than the norm, but the back of the bracelet is the customary
Juliana style.

JULIANA dark green,
purple, and deep blue glass navettes with dangle crystals of dark green
and purple.

JULIANA bracelet,
brooch and earrings with pink rivoli stones.

JULIANA
white opaque glass cabochons with what looks like hand painted flowers.

JULIANA watermelon rhinestones
with surrounding purple navettes.

JULIANA red watermelon
stones with red navettes, pin/bracelet/earrings.

Bobye Syverson shared this wonderful necklace
and earrings set, and says, "Someday I hope to find the bracelet,
don’t you KNOW that would be gorgeous? The earrings are on the original
card." This is a really unusual style for Juliana.

Other wonderful Juliana style pieces.

JULIANA
necklace and earrings… buttons and beads!
Courtesy of Myrna Seal

JULIANA style 15-17"
opaque pink glass stones and grey rhinestones necklace.
View
#J23452

JULIANA
necklace and earrings.
Courtesy of Laura Hudson

JULIANA style
gray and aurora faceted beads 7" by 1-1/4" bracelet and 1-5/8" earrings.
View #J23763

JULIANA style blue and green rhinestones bracelet with gold tone
leaves, 7" by 1" with 1" earrings. View
View #J23764

JULIANA style pale pastel blue and lavender bracelet, 7".
View
#J23419

JULIANA style pink rose
bracelet and earrings with original hang tag. Two styles of
earrings… one pair is a dangle, the other isn’t, and both are clip-on
style.
View
View
View
View
Courtesy of Dyanne Brox.

JULIANA style unsigned
red rhinestone and aurora 16" by 1-3/4" necklace,7" by 3/4" bracelet,
brooch and 1-7/8" earrings.
View #J28252

JULIANA style unsigned red, gray and aurora bracelet, 7" by
1". View
View #J28253