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Hinged Bangles, Dating




Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry

presents
~


JEWEL CHAT

Costume Jewelry Magazine




H
inged
Bangle
Bracelets
Samples,
Catalogues, Patents, Dates & Findings




Victorian
Bangles were a popular accessory
and were often worn two or more
at a time
, sometimes one on each wrist. Of course not all were hinged
bangles. Link bracelets
and cross-over bangles
were among the other favorites. The vintage Victorian catalogues show a wide
selection of hinged bangles in various designs as you can see in the
examples below. Sterling, electro-plating, gold filled (American),
rolled gold plated (English) and double` d’or (French) finishes were all used for
jewelry by the mid-1800s. The term "Roman Finish" is often seen in late
1800s catalogues. According to the 1931 edition of "Keystone", it is a
"dull yellow effect on a plain or modeled surface gained by depositing
fine gold on a roughened surface. It is softer than a bright finish." Styles in jewelry changed over the decades,
with gold fringe and foxtails
popular in the 1870s, Japonesque or
Aesthetic
style by the 1890s.





S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
New York, New York

UNKNOWN, 1879
No. 11,237
Design for a bracelet
LADY wearing an onyx and seed
pearl earrings and brooch set and a cross pendant.
View

S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
Solid 14k gold band bangle bracelets, engraved, enameled and engraved,
buckles, black enamel and pearl..





S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
Solid 14k gold band bangle bracelets, engraved, enameled and engraved. Bird,
flower, scrolls and leaves designs.

S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
Solid 14k gold band bangle bracelets, engraved, enameled and engraved. Bird,
flower, scrolls and leaves designs.
S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
Band hinged bangles, buckle design, enameled and engraved.

S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
Roman richly ornamented, plain black enamel, adjustable band for children,
engraved adjustable band.





S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878
Rolled gold plate hinged bangle bracelets, chanel and enameled, buckle,
chased and engraved, ornamented Roman, plain Roman, edged Roman, polished,
woven wire.


VICTORIAN
2-1/2" by 2" matching hinged gold filled bangles,
each 6" inside dimension by 7-16" wide.
View
#V23427
C. HEIN, 1880
Patent
No. 11,779

Design for a bracelet
Charles Hein

DANIEL H. SMITH, 1871
Patent
No. 4911
Design for a bracelet





CODDING, 1869
Patent
No. 3383
Bracelet
A. Codding Jr.

FREDRICK WESSEL, 1870
Patent
No. 4256
Design for a bracelet
THERON J. SMITH, 1870
Patent
No. 4516
Design for a bracelet

THERON J. SMITH, 1871
Patent
No. 4643
Design for a bracelet





S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878

ETCHED gold tone hinged
bangle with engraved and black enameled design, also engraved inside "LSM to LMG", 5-1/2" by 1/2".
View
View #V27839
S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1878

VICTORIAN gold tone etched
hinged buckle bangle with beaded accents, 7" by 1-1/4".
View #V27630





C. HEIN, 1880
No. 11,779

Design for a bracelet
Charles Hein

F. KURSCH, 1880
No. 11,893

Design for a bracelet
Frank Kursch
H.E. CHADWICK & H.P. LESTER, 1883
No. 14,391

Ornamental chain
Horace E. Chadwick, Horace P. Lester

R.H. AHN, 1883
No. 14,438

Bracelet
Robert H. Ahn





W.C. EDGE, 1882
No. 252,441
Bracelet and clasp, cross-over style
W.C. Edge

W. LINK, 1882
No. 256,438
Bracelet and clasp, hinged bangle
W. Link

J. MOORE, 1883
No. 273,241
Bracelet and clasp, hinged bangle
J. Moore

H.C. Lindol, 1884
No. 299,816
Bracelet, cross over style
Harry C. Lindol





S.F. Myers Catalogue 1885
"Rolled gold plate bracelets, adjustable bands, engraved."

S.F. Myers Catalogue 1885
"Rolled gold plate bracelets, round and beaded edges, black enamel, hand
engraved, fine finished bands, sold per pair."

S.F. Myers Catalogue 1885
"Rolled gold plate bracelets, ornamented Roman, fine electro plate, child’s,
chased and enameled, buckle, ornamented Roman."

S.F. Myers Catalogue 1885
"Ornamented Roman, plaited woven wire, buckle, chased and enameled."





J.A. CHARNELY, 1884
No. 14,566

Bracelet
James A. Charnely

H.C. LINDOL, 1887
No. 17,070

Bracelet
F.A. LA PIERRE, 1889
No. 19,530

Bracelet
Frank H. La Peierre

H.W. FISHEL, 1889
No. 20,298

Providence, Rhode Island
Charnely was among other things an inventor of jewelry-related machinery,
including machines that engraved and chased metals

H.C. Lindol & Company
Providence, Rhode Island
est. 1885; out of business circa 1912

Bracelet
Henry W. Fishel & Sons
New York, NY





E.V. RODDIN & Co., 1887
Manufacturing Jewelers, Importers of Diamonds
151 State Street, Chicago, Ill.

E.V. RODDIN & Co., 1887
"Fine solid gold bracelets, prices per pair"
Full engraved and enameled; Roman, bright cut finish; Roman, armor pattern;
Roman, woven wire edge; Adjustable fancy engraved.

VICTORIAN 14 karat
yellow gold and emeralds buckle bangle, etched design, 6-1/2" by 3/4".
View
View #V32117

E.V. RODDIN & Co., 1887
"Fine rolled gold plate bracelets, prices per pair.
When ordering, please send circumference of wrist."





VICTORIAN lady
wearing a buckle motif bracelet. Carte de visite marked "James Brooks,
The Todmorden Studio, Wellington Road"..

VICTORIAN lady wearing a
silver locket and collar, hinged tube bangle and earrings. Marked on the back, "Geo. W.
Wilcox, Artist, Palmer, Mass." View

VICTORIAN lady wearing a locket and
collar and a hinged bangle, circa 1880. Her name was Johana Frank
Hartman, born July 16th, 1856. She
is the grandmother of Bobye Syverson, expert in Eisenberg jewelry. "Melendy &
Packard, Manitowoc, Wisconsin"
View

RODDIN 1888 Catalogue
Fine rolled gold bracelets, polished coil, polished wire and lock, polished
flexible coil, Roman and gold front ornaments, adjustable trace chain, Roman
ball ends, garnet settings.





E.V. RODDIN & Co., 1887
"Roman, bright cut finish" hinged buckle bangle.


VICTORIAN
gold filled buckle motif bangle with etched design,
marked inside" gold metal cored", 7" by 1/3".
View
#V29840

RODDIN 1888 Catalogue
Fine solid gold bracelets, polished stiffened wire, polished square
stiffened wire, Roman flower bracelets.

VICTORIAN Etruscan revival
child-sized
bracelet in gold tone and garnets, circa 1885, 5-1/4". See the
1887 E.V. Roddin Catalogue page
with bracelets like this, and also Bell’s "Collecting Victorian
Jewelry" page 133.
View
View #V32310





RODDIN 1888 Catalogue
Fine rolled gold plate bangle bracelets, full engraved, Roman and nugget
finish, imitation onyx satin finished adjustable, polished garnet and pearl
settings.

VICTORIAN
14k yellow gold tone hinged bangle with etched fruit, leaves and flowers on
front, 6" by 5/8".
View #V25958
S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Solid gold enameled, engraved, Roman chased and Roman braided.

RODDIN 1888 Catalogue
Roman bright cut finish, fancy engraved, woven wire, pliable and polished
stiffened wire bangle bracelets.





S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Rolled gold plate and silver bracelets.

S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Solid gold enameled, engraved, Roman chased and pearls inlaid.
S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Silver link and wire bracelets.

H. ELLEAU, 1888
No. 393,222
Bracelet and spring clasp, hinged bangle
Henry Elleau.





S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Rolled gold plate bangle bracelets.

S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Solid gold band and link bracelets.
S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Rolled gold plate and silver link and wire bracelets.

S.F. Myers & Co. Jewelry Catalogue, circa 1889
Fine rolled gold plate bracelets.

Victorian
1800s Findings
Many of these bangles have a
variation on the v-spring and box (also called tongue and groove) style closure. A
similar closure is used through many decades so this is probably not a
good way of dating bangles.





VICTORIAN sterling hinged
bangle with floral engraving, hallmarks inside, circa 1885, 6-1/2" by 1".
Similar piece seen in Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, 2nd Ed, page
62.
View
View
View
View #V24970

Tongue and groove box clasp. VICTORIAN "Registered J.C. May 14th, 1881, No. 3437" silver
spring-loaded hinged bangle with etched floral motif on front, 7" by 1", one
slight dimple on the back.
View
View
View #V31798

Two-pronged tongue and groove catch.




VICTORIAN sterling Chester
"JS" hallmarked hinged bangle, gold overlay
birds and leaves front, safety chain, 7" by 1/2".
View
View
View
View
View
View #V29651

Tongue and groove box clasp.

VICTORIAN silver buckle bangle with
hidden photo compartment The English registration mark inside is tiny and
hard to read, but it seems to date this to circa 1880, 6-2/3" by 1-1/4".
View
View
View #V31840

Tongue and groove box clasp.





VICTORIAN silver hinged bangle, ovals with alternating
Aesthetic birds and floral
designs, "PM to LM" initials inside, 6-1/3" by 1-1/3". See Davidov &
Dawes "Victorian Jewelry" page 24.
View
View
View
View
View #V31286

Tongue and groove box clasp, scalloped hinge. VICTORIAN silver hinged bangle with safety chain, Aesthetic
design with birds
and fan, engraved "JM" on reverse, marked "5" inside,
6-5/8" by 1". See bird theme Victorian bangle on page 35 of
Davidov & Dawes "Victorian Jewelry". View
View
View #V31287

Tongue and groove box clasp.






VICTORIAN
gold filled buckle motif
bangle with etched design, marked inside" gold metal cored", 7" by 1/3".
View
#V29840

Tongue and groove box clasp.
VICTORIAN
2-1/2" by 2" matching hinged gold filled bangles,
each 6" inside dimension by 7-16" wide.
View
#V23427

Tongue and groove box clasp.





HINGED BANGLE 1871
Patent #120535

VICTORIAN silver buckle bangle bracelet in the original box, Birmingham
1885 "WW", unusual "Wests Patent" catch, 6-2/3" by 1".
The catch is a very unusual one, the first we have seen like it, and the
bangle is a heavier weight than most in this style, showing it’s superior
quality. It tests as sterling but has no hallmarks.
View
View
View
View
View
View
View #V33728

VICTORIAN bangle #V33728 showing the unusual catch.

Hinged Bangle 1881
patent #245990

Early 1900s
Bracelets & Findings
According to the vintage
catalogues, bangles of this era became more slim and delicate and often more open in design.
For more wonderful bracelets see

Jewel Chat, Collector’s
Chat





Daniel Low & Co. 1901 Catalogue

Bangles and bracelets. The top row is a selection of hinged bangles. Priced
in the catalogue from $ .50 to $3.50 each.
14k YELLOW GOLD etched flowers and leaves motif hinged bangle with five
faceted stones, 6-1/2" by 1/4". View View View
#G14503

Prong fastener slides into unusual star-shaped hole and
catches.





14k YELLOW GOLD hinged hollow bangle
with embossed leaf and scrolls design all around, purple faceted stones,
marked inside "14", 7" by 1/3".
View
View View
View View
#V23355

Prong fastener tongue and groove, slides into grove and catches. 18k YELLOW GOLD hollow embossed flowers and leaves bangle with diamond
rubies on the front, engraved inside "W.L.T. to M.L.A. 12-25-13, circa 1913,
7" by 1/4". View View #G2652

Prong tongue and groove fastener slides into grove and catches.





W&SS
Co
gold tone hinged bangle with pink unfoiled rhinestones set in floral
design, 7-1/2" with
1-1/4" front, circa 1910. See Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry"
2nd edition page 210 for similar bangle.
View
View
#Y26439

GOLD TONE
hinged bangle with engraved scrolls and flowers on all sides, engraved "M.W.
2-22-07", 7" by 1/2". View
View
View #Y12483
Stub fastener slides into hole and catches.

HINGED
gold filled bracelet with
purple rhinestones set in tapered open work, 7-1/2" with 1-1/3" front, circa 1910. See
Christie Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry" 2nd edition page 210 and 3rd
Edition page 110 for similar
bangles.
View #Y26377





C.S. HURD, 1906
No. 37,767
bracelet
Charles S. Hurd

A.V. LAMBERT, 1906
No. 38,381
bracelet
August V. Lambert
WIDE gold tone
bangle with lion face, a common motif for the time. Similar lion faces can
be found on bangles, lockets, watch fobs and brooches.
Courtesy of Pat Seal

KOLLMAR, 1908
No 39,259

Head for fobs, brooches, pins or similar articles
Inventor: Herman Kollmar





J.A. Fuller, 1906
No. 825,644
Bracelet
James A. Fuller

S.B. KENT, 1908
No. 895,866
Bracelet
Stephen B. Kent

M. Schiff, 1908
No. 1,080,371
Bracelet and clasp
Morris Schiff

C. Strauss, 1914
No. 1,094,947
Bracelet
Charles Strauss



H. Brassler, 1914
No. 1,099,484
Bracelet clasp
Hans Brassler

H. Brassler, 1915
No. 1,142,070
Bracelet and clasp
Henry Wiedmann

1930s Bracelets &
Findings
In the 1930s
filigree bangles seemed to became the
most popular bracelet and variations of them are in every vintage
catalogue I own. Lovely, delicate and still very wearable, they came in
many designs and colors as you can see below.
Victorian Revival bangles are seen
beginning in the late 1930s and continuing through the 1940s. Some
Revival bracelets are easy to recognize, but the gold filled with black
enameled etched-design bangles can be difficult to distinguish from the
original Victorian bracelets. For many bangles the only way
to date them is by the maker’s mark or the engraved sentiment.





NuWite filigree, rhinestone and enamel hinged bangles.
ST&W Jewelry Catalogue, 1930

FILIGREE silver tone
filigree hinged bangle with deep aqua center rhinestone and black and yellow
enameling, circa 1925, 7-1/4" by 5/8". See Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry, Ed. 3"
page 144.
View #Q24438
NuWite filigree, rhinestone and enamel hinged bangles.
ST&W Jewelry Catalogue, 1930

FILIGREE silver tone domed
hinged bangle
with blue rhinestones, 6-1/2" by 1/3".
#Q27631





FILIGREE
white and yellow gold tone
filigree bracelet with green unfoiled rhinestone, side hinge, circa 1930,
6-5/8" by 5/8". View
View
View #Q32555

Catch for the filigree bangle #Q32484.

ROMAR filigree hinged bangle with blue unfoiled rhinestone center, side
hinged, safety chain. #Q32552

ROMAR QUALITY mark.





The Becken Book, 1933
Chicago, Illinois

J.J. WHITE Deco silver
and gold colored filigree, black glass center sonte, 7-1/3" by 5/8".
E. L Weed was a designer for designer J.J. White, and their mark is a "W" in a triangle.
View #Q28029
The Becken Book, 1933
Filigree and band hinged bangle bracelets.

FILIGREE silver tone with
molded green stones hinged bangle bracelet with safety chain, circa 1930, 7"
by 1/2". View
View #Q29831





J.J. WHITE (designer E.L. Weed, W in
triangle mark) filigree buckle motif bangle with aqua unfoiled rhinestone, patn #1933576, circa 1933, 7" by 1/2".
View #Q27347


J.J. WHITE

(W in a triangle mark) filigree gold and silver colored bangle with pale
yellow unfoiled rhinestone center, patent #1,933,576 circa 1933, 7" by 5/8".
E. L Weed was a designer for designer J.J. White, and their mark is a "W" in a triangle
#Q26750

JJ WHITE, 1933
Patent # 1,933,576
158 Pine St., Providence, RI
E. L Weed, designer; Mark is a "W" in a triangle
Source: 1931 Keystone, page 515

SAMSON
gold tone hinged bangle with pink rhinestone center, original
tag attached. View
#X16492






J.J. WHITE
white and yellow gold tone filigree bracelet with lavender
unfoiled rhinestone center, front hinge and clasp, circa 1933,
pat 1933576
by E. L. Weed
, 6-5/8" by 1/2".
View
View
View
View #Q32553

J.J. WHITE bangle showing hinge on the left side of the rhinestone center.

J.J. WHITE bangle showing hinge on the left side of the rhinestone center
and catch on the right.

JJ WHITE, 1933
Patent # 1,933,576
158 Pine St., Providence, RI
E. L Weed, designer; Mark is a "W" in a triangle
Source: 1931 Keystone, page 515





J.
J. WHITE
white and yellow gold tone filigree and mesh band bracelet with
pink unfoiled rhinestone center, front hinge and clasp, circa 1930,
pat 1933576
by E. L. Weed
, 6-5/8" by 5/8".
View
View
View
View #Q32554

J. J. WHITE bangle showing catch beside the center portion.

J. J. WHITE bangle showing catch behind the center portion.

JJ WHITE, 1933
Patent # 1,933,576
158 Pine St., Providence, RI
E. L Weed, designer; Mark is a "W" in a triangle
Source: 1931 Keystone, page 515






SIMMONS
"Betsy Ross" Victorian Revival gold filled hinged etched bangle with
stamped scrolls and black enameling, circa
1935, 5/8" x 2-1/4". See similar bangles in Romero’s "Warman’s
Jewelry" on page 138. View
#X18639

Benjamin Allen & Co. Catalogue, 1939
Band hinged bangle bracelets
GOLD
FILLED
hinged gold filled etched foliate design bangle with
taille d’epargne black broders, marked "1-20 10k gf" and engraved
inside "from Elsie & Joe to Margaret 1937", measures 6-7/8" by 3/4". See
similar bangles in Romero’s "Warman’s Jewelry" on page 138.
View

View

View #Y18670

Benjamin Allen & Co. Catalogue, 1939
Band hinged bangle bracelets.





HAYWARD 1/20-12K yellow gold
filled buckle bangle with etched roses and leaves design on textured
background, engraved on slide "AR to FS", adjustable 6-7" by 1/2".
View
View #X51001

EIF Co gold
tone engraved bangle, flower garden motif, 7" by 1/2".
View #X26774

WINARD gold tone etched
bangle marked inside 1/20-12k, circa 1930, 6-7/8" by 1/2" wide.
View #Y14544

SIMMONS rolled gold and black enameled hinged buckle bangle.
#Q32485





Benjamin Allen & Co. Catalogue, 1939

Benjamin Allen & Co. Catalogue, 1939
Band hinged bangle bracelets.
Benjamin Allen & Co. Catalogue, 1939
Band hinged bangle bracelets. Yellow or white metal with white stone
settings and interchangeable initials..

Benjamin Allen & Co. Catalogue, 1939
Band and hinged bangle bracelets. Sterling silver with imitation stones. One
has an unusual "Indian design".





EMBOSSED floral matching
hinged bangles engraved "Christmas 1934", set of 2, 7" by 1" each.
View #Y28773

ANTIQUED
gold tone heavily embossed floral motif hinged bangle, 6-7/8" with
1-5/8" front and 5/8" embossed back.
View #Y26838

VICTORIAN REVIVAL gold tone
hinged bangle with blue oval rhinestone surrounded by artificial seed pearls
and a floral embossed back, 6-7/8" by 1".
View
View
View #Y26840

GOLD TONE heavily embossed
grapes motif hinged bangle, 7" by 1-1/4" wide.
View
View #Y26839





HASKELL blue and pink glass
bead and faux pearl double-hinged bracelet, 1-1/4" wide.
View #H23638

G.K. LOWE, 1935
No. 1,994,826
Bracelet
George K. Lowe

SILVER tone
hinged butterfly wing bracelet marked "R" in square and "patn 1994826",
7" by 5/8". View
View
#Y26179

HASKELL
double-hinged gold tone clear rose montee bracelet, 2" by 1" front.
View
View
View
#H19212



P. Manickas, 1937
No. 2,114,930
Bracelet and clasp
Peter Manickas

A.H. Metcalf, 1946
No. 2,582,878
Bracelet and clasp
Alpha H. Metcalf

Post 1950 Bracelets
& Findings
In the catalogues I own, hinged bangles
seem to be drastically reduced after about 1950. They seem to have given
way to the more popular bracelets of that era:
expansion bracelets, ID
bracelets and simple gold filled or rhinestone
flexible bracelets.
But some hinged bangles were still being made as you can see below.




MONET gold
tone hand engraved front hinged hollow bangle, circa 1960s, 7" by 7/16".
View
View #X31106

Thumb pin depressor with slide wire that slips in and out to fasten. ENGLISH
sterling silver hinged bangle hallmarked Birmingham, 1960, "J. G. Ltd"
for
John Gloster Ltd, etched floral and scroll design, 7" by 7/8".
View
View
#V28188

Tongue and groove box clasp circa 1960. If not for the
hallmarked date, I would have guessed this to be a Victorian piece.





STERLING silver hinged hollow bracelet with banded agate on top,
etched foliate design on the front, hallmarked
Birmingham 1960s, 7" by 3/4". This is done very much in the old
Victorian style.
View
View
View
View #V31342

ALICE CAVINESS Catalogue circa 1970.
12 KARAT gold filled hinged bangle bracelets, also available in sterling.

MONET gold
tone hand engraved hinged bangle, circa 1960s, 7" by 7/16".
View
View
View
#X31104

STERLING "C.P.S." sterling solid hinged bangle with etched scrolls and
leaves on one side, hallmarked Birmingham 1965, 7" by 1/3".
View #N60547

REFERENCES:

Warman’s Jewelry by Christie Romero, Ed 3


Victorian Jewelry by Davidov & Dawes

EV Roddin, 1887-9
SF Myers Catalogue, 1893
Daniel Low Catalogue, 1901
Daniel Low Catalogue, 1906
JR Wood Catalogue, 1919
ST&W Illustrated Catalogue, 1930
Jewel Chat Collector’s Chat, Molly Garza