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"JULIANA" JEWELRY
1960's 

What is it?

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Juliana jewelry was marked, if at all,  by paper hang-tags only.  This same style also came with other hang-tags, though, so while we refer to it as "Juliana style", it was actually made in the 1960's by DeLizza & Elster (William DeLizza & Harold Elster, New York City, NY) and sold along with a variety of their designs to other jewelry companies. Two of the other paper hang tags seen on this type of jewelry are "Gloria" and "Tara".

The term Juliana is used as descriptive of a certain look and style of jewelry. As Shakespear said, "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet", and this is one of the best roses in the costume jewelry garden! 

 

These are examples of the kind of jewelry seen with the Juliana hang tags. The stones are a combination of foiled and unfoiled, and are larger mixed with smaller stones. The assembly on the back of both the bracelet and the necklace is the typical 5-link style. So far, we have seen no Juliana marks that are incised into necklaces, bracelets or brooches.

According to Pam Wiggins, "they're called 'watermelon' because the stones resemble the natural watermelon tourmaline. It's green around the edges and bright pink at the center. At least that's what I've always been told. And after seeing a real watermelon tourmaline, it made perfect sense!"

Again, the backs of the bracelet and the brooch shown are typical.

"Painted" or "speckled" large center cabochons are another common element found in Juliana pieces. These types of stones came colors including orange, pinks, red, purple, blue and two shades of green.  JULIANA style Easter egg oval brooch in aqua and pink rhinestones and aurora set in gold tone, 2-1/2".   View   #J27442

This Juliana style bracelet and brooch show the typical fabulous colors... when seen in person, these stones ripple with a rainbow of color!  JULIANA style rose and blue watermelon rhinestone bracelet and brooch, circa 1960. (Seen in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 202.)   View    View    View    #J12916

  Over the years, many of these faceted crystal beaded sets in several colors have come through the shop. Some were marked with Juliana hang tags, some with no tag, but this is the only one I have ever seen with a Regency hang tag.

This group came with a wide variety of shapes and sizes of brooches, plus at least three different necklaces. For a long time, I collected ANY piece that used this stone, just to see how many there were. My pocketbook gave out long before the variations did!  

Juliana style necklace and earrings with "Gloria" tag, but I have had them with Juliana and Tara tags, too. Necklace 14-1/2", round brooch 2-1/2", oval brooch 2-1/4" by 2", round earrings on card 1-1/3", oval earrings 1-1/4", circa 1960. (Seen in Christie Romero's "Warman's Jewelry, 3rd Ed, page 209.)  View  View    View    View    View    View .   JULIANA style grand parure, necklace and earrings with GLORIA tags.

   Here is an example of a Julian brooch and earrings set, shown both front and back.

   This set is NOT Juliana, but is often confused with it. It is much lighter in weight, and with the riveted construction not as well made, but does sometimes use similar colors and stones.

Cheryl says, "Here are some of the bracelets I pulled out of my Juliana cache. The fold-over clasp is an indication of the Juliana style.  Jane's photos showed you the back side (the links) very well, so these photos are just the fronts.   The more of this style that is handled and viewed, the easier it is to recognize it and easier to recognize the matching pieces to the bracelets without actually having the bracelets."

And lest you are feeling smugly confident that you now can recognize a Juliana easily, Cheryl has snuck in a ringer! Look in the picture in the center... the bracelet at the bottom is a Schiaparelli!

"All sizes and shapes of rhinestones were used, navettes, skinny navettes, chatons, pears, keystones.  Aurora borealis were used to add a little fillip to a bracelet of all one color or shades of one color. Color combinations were striking -- pinks with purple, purple with teal, orange, green and pink together.  Metals were gold tone, silver tone, gunmetal and in one case, pinky/purple japanning -- striking.  The stones themselves were good quality.

"Many styles were replicated in several colors and metals.  Most of the stones were four pronged or pasted in although there may be the occasional 'dog tooth' prong.

The similar characteristics does not mean that a manufacturer didn't sell the findings to different companies who then set their own rhinestones into them and sold them with or without hang tags. After collecting 180 bracelets I have only found three paper-tagged Juliana and one a clamper -- another mystery."

  GLORIA  Juliana style necklace and earrings with "Gloria" tag, but I have had them with Juliana and Tara tags, too. Necklace 14-1/2", round brooch 2-1/2", oval brooch 2-1/4" by 2", round earrings on card 1-1/3", oval earrings 1-1/4".  View
JULIANA grand parure.

JULIANA hang tag

JULIANA hang tag

GLORIA hang tag

TARA mark

TARA hang tag

TARA hang tag on necklace

   GLORIA tan, orange and peacock glass beads 17" 4-strand necklace with original tag.  View   View   #J23231

JULIANA was marked on foil hang tags.  GLORIA was also a hang tag mark.    View    Tara was marked on the pieces themselves.  These marks also appear on other jewelry.

 

TARA pink sculpted pink iridescent glass and aurora borealis 13-15" necklace.   #J24717

This necklace is a reminder that not all jewelry with the Tara mark is "Juliana" in style.

   JULIANA style green cat's eye cabochons and rhinestones bracelet and earrings   View    View    View   #9298

JULIANA style rose and blue watermelon rhinestone bracelet and brooch   View    View    View    #J12916

 JULIANA style blue and green rivoli butterfly pin  View   #J5009

  JULIANA style topaz rhinestones and celery aurora bracelet and earrings   #J11079

JULIANA Although unsigned, these pieces feature fabulous art glass stones and dazzling colors. If it looks like these... it NEEDS no signature!   

  JULIANA style grand parure in speckled orange and green cabochons   View    View    View    View    View   

   GLORIA  Juliana style necklace and earrings with "Gloria" tag, but I have had them with Juliana and Tara tags, too. Necklace 14-1/2", round brooch 2-1/2", oval brooch 2-1/4" by 2", round earrings on card 1-1/3", oval earrings 1-1/4".  View

JULIANA style grand parure.

JULIANA style brown, green and orange watermelon rhinestones brooch and earrings   View    View   #J12956

  JULIANA "Easter Egg" art glass cabochons, purple and aurora rhinestones 2-1/3" brooch.   View   #J29380     

JULIANA "Easter Egg" art glass cabochons, purple and aurora rhinestones 16" necklace, 2-1/3" brooch and 1-1/3" earrings.   View   View   View   View   View  #J29379

     JULIANA style bracelet with iridescent carved flowers.  View   #J19864

   JULIANA style red marquis, aurora rhinestone and faux pearl necklace, brooch and earrings.   View   #J12108

   JULIANA style red and lavender rhinestone and aurora brooch.  View   View   #J19728

 JULIANA style red and lavender aurora borealis rhinestone brooch and matching bracelet that is not made in the usual Juliana style.  View    View    #J20298

   JULIANA style blue and green rhinestone and aurora borealis dazzle in this 14-16 inch necklace and 1-1/4 inch earrings all set in silver tone. This is Classic Juliana!  View   View     View     #J18811

    JULIANA style blue and green rhinestone and aurora borealis 7" bracelet.   #J9087

 JULIANA style bracelets, all 7" long, and the width, starting at the top, are:

3/4",  1-1/4"  1",  1-1/2"

    JULIANA style pastel beads and rhinestones 7" bracelet.  View   View   #J20213