Over the many years I have been dealing in vintage jewelry, one motif has continued to be a great favorite of mine... hand brooches! From the Victorian vulcanite hands holding objects that have meaning to the 1940s Staret Torch, I love them all.
Like many Victorian items, jewelry could hold a message to those who know how to interpret it. In calling cards, for instance, the message was often printed on the card. Here are some examples that are not for sale, but fun to see:
http://www.morninggloryantiques.com/JewelChatCCards.html
A ladys hand was one of the most popular jewelry motifs and the object held in the hand carried a message. Examples are roses for love, a dove for the soul winging its way to heaven, forget-me-nots for remembrance or a wreath for hope and eternal life.
This week I decided to sell my vulcanite collection and share it with you! I have had these for many years, and all of them are circa 1880. I hope you enjoy them all and with some of these, start a collection of your own.
http://www.morninggloryjewelry.com/victorian-vulcanite-jewelry-c-97.html
You might also enjoy our gallery of hand pins by clicking HERE.
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During part of the Victorian period from about 1860 to 1890, this jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color, not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, each carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well, and worn for its beauty and sentiment. Â JET is the black fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew millions of years ago. It is particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into jewelry and accessories. While jet was made into jewelry throughout the 1800s, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890. Like amber, it will pick up paper when static is created by rubbing it on wool or silk.
VULCANITE (also sometimes called "ebonite") was made by combining and heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur. Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved, and it was used mainly in making jewelry. HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry. BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a brownish-black, and has a woody texture.
FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass, and not truly jet at all. Like all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or vulcanite.
BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly polished.
GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was used mainly in technical articles, e.g. driving belts, stoppers, tubs, pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was very rarely used for jewelry.
Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Mullers book Jetand in Christie Romeros Warmans Jewelry, Ed. 3Â on pages 51 and 52. Â To see all the Victorian jet that we have for sale, check our selection at Morning Glory Jewelry.
And for Vulcanite, bog oak, etc., click Here.
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