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Victorian Vulcanite Necklaces  
TO PURCHASE: You are on a reference page of Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry. These items were photographed from private collections, and are for reference only.
Jewelry that is available TO BUY can be accessed by clicking HERE.

 


  During part of the Victorian period from about 1860 to 1890, this jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color, not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, each carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits painted on pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well and worn for its beauty and sentiment.

   VULCANITE (also sometimes called "ebonite") was made by combining and heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur. Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved, and it was used mainly in making jewelry. (Gutta percha was almost never used in jewelry and is often confused with vulcanite).
HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry. It is sometimes translucent when held up to strong light.
BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a brownish-black, and has a woody texture.
FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass and not truly jet at all. Like all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or vulcanite.
BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly polished.

 

 

VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite cameo pendant and golden earrings. Cabinet card handwritten on the back in pencil, "Lizzie Richardson".   View   View

VICTORIAN lady wearing a teardrop-shaped necklace and a carved ivory name brooch. Carte de viste marked "Photographie Parisenne, Letalle & Co., (from Paris), 36 Cannon St., Birmingham".  

    VICTORIAN lady wearing elaborate vulcanite drops necklace.   View

 

 VICTORIAN vulcanite grapes necklace, 20" long with 3-1/3" drop at the front.   View    #V32599

 VICTORIAN vulcanite links necklace with four pendant maenads on each side of a center classic maiden in three-quarter profile. The central maiden is a 2-1/2" cameo and each maenad is 2", all on a 20" chain, circa 1880. This necklace is seen in "Nineteenth Century Cameos" by Rowan, page 119, as well as in Muller's book "Jet", page 126.   View  View   View   View   View   #V29237

VICTORIAN vulcanite 20" chain and 3" cross.   View   View   View   #V31564

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite "forget-me-not" embossed sentiment on a lovely locket and links chain. The locket is 2-1/8" by 1-1/8", the chain 21" with 5/8" by 1/2" links, circa 1880.   View   View   View   #V31976

VICTORIAN early 1800s French jet necklace, 16-1/2" with a front drop of 4". To find this ornate and well-designed a piece of early French jet in excellent condition with no missing pieces is a rare treat.  View   View   View   View   #V31972

VICTORIAN vulcanite Bacchante cameo locket necklace with a  22-1/2" chain with 5/8" by 1/2" links and a 1-1/2" by 1-1/8" locket.    View   View   View   #V31857

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN French jet bib necklace with amazing delicacy and intricate design by far the best I have ever had. French jet is black glass, and each tiny faceted piece here has been mounted to a black enamel metal backing and joined to for this amazing necklace. The catch is a double hook at the back.   View  #V36319


 

 

 

  

    VICTORIAN vulcanite locket with fuchsia flowers, 4 photo compartments holding photos of what looks like parents and grandparents, 2-1/8". See page 26 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments".  View   #V25284

VICTORIAN vulcanite 2" locket on 4-1/2" of chain.    View   View  #V25357

   VICTORIAN vulcanite locket in ornate shield motif, 3-1/4".  View   #V25285

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite fuchsia oval 1-7/8" locket on 28" chain, one link missing.   View   View   #V27201  

    VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite hand brooch, beads and bracelet.  View

 VICTORIAN vulcanite chain with celluloid cameo pendant, chain is 19" with 5/8" by 1/2" links and 2-1/2".   View   View   #V31856   

 

     VICTORIAN vulcanite green boy pendant, 2-5/8".   See similar pieces on page 90 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".   View   #V28876 

   VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant with hand painted porcelain pink "Tyrolean boy" portrait, 2-5/8".   View   #V29161  

   VICTORIAN vulcanite boy portrait miniature on porcelain pendant, circa 1870, 1-1/2". See page 32 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments".   View   #V27673  

 

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a jet brooch and earrings and a vulcanite locket on chain, 2-1/2" by 4". "E. Le Jeune Photographe, Naples".  View   View   #Vkph22

VICTORIAN vulcanite heart and flowers pendant, 1-3/4".   View   #V29817

VICTORIAN vulcanite lily locket with fitting on one side inside, 1-5/8" by 1-1/3" with 1/2" loop.   View   View   #V32216

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite chain with highly embossed roses cross pendant, chain 30" with 1/2" round links, cross 3-1/3".   View   View   #V31854

VICTORIAN vulcanite china with four-lobed pierced and carved pendant with highly embossed floral front, chain 19" with 1-1/4" by 7/8z" down to 3/4" by 1/2" links and 3" pendant.    View   View   View   #V31855

VICTORIAN vulcanite necklace 22-1/2" chain with 5/8" by 1/2" links and Bacchante locket 1-1/2" by 1-1/8".    View   View   View   #V31857  

 

    VICTORIAN vulcanite chain and pendant with flower bouquet design, chain 16" with round 7/16" links, teardrop shaped pendant 1-5/8" by 1-1/8".  View   View   #V29896  VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite necklace.   VICTORIAN vulcanite chain and pendant with flower bouquet design, chain 19", teardrop shaped pendant 2-1/8" by 1-5/8".   View   View   View   #V29897

 

  VICTORIAN Prince Albert watch chain with charms, 11-1/2" chain with 1/2" to 1" charms on 3-1/2" chains.   View   #V28546

VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite chatelaine chain at her waist.

   VICTORIAN vulcanite 17" chain with hook closure and 2-1/3" etched design pendant.  View   View  #V29141

 

     VICTORIAN vulcanite bird and scrolls locket with charming baby photo inside, 1-3/4".   View   #V27374

       VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant with pansies hand painted on porcelain, circa 1870, 2-5/8". Pansies are the symbol of remembrance.   View   #V27373

   VICTORIAN vulcanite three-dimensional mother bird feeding nested babies locket, 1-3/4". See page 26 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments".   View   #V27375

 

    
VICTORIAN vulcanite oval locket with entwined initials "AEI" (Amity, Eternity & Infinity) on the front for eternal love and a tintype of a man inside, 1-5/8".  See similar pieces on page 90 of Helen Muller's book "Jet" and in Luthi's Sentimental Jewelry page 27.  View   #V29233 VICTORIAN lady wearing an intricate vulcanite necklace. VICTORIAN vulcanite large oval locket with flower bouquet front, intricate designed interior with covered photo compartment, 2", page, see Muller Jet, page 128.   View   #V29235

 

  VICTORIAN vulcanite brooch, a flying cherub holding a garland of flowers circa 1880, 2-1/3" by 1-1/2". This is a rare motif for vulcanite.  View   #V36056

 

 VICTORIAN Queen Victoria vulcanite expansion bracelet circa 1887, her 50th anniversary as Queen, 7" relaxed size, front 1-3/4" by 1-1/2", back width 1-1/8". This piece can be seen in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery" on page 128.
This very special piece is from the personal collection of Katy and Helen
Muller, authors of the books on jet jewellery. I am so very privileged to
have it and other pieces from their private collections. It is guaranteed to be genuine and all original Victorian. Their books "Jet Jewellery &
Ornaments" and "Whitby Jet" are the best books written on the subject.   View   View   View   #V36473

VICTORIAN vulcanite oval flower bouquet brooch circa 1880, 2-1/8" by 1-5/8".  View   #V36052

 

 

  VICTORIAN vulcanite links bracelet with a mosaic padlock charm closure, circa 1880, 7-1/3" long with 1-1/2" padlock. The mosaic is a motif of pink, yellow and white roses, blue forget-me-nots and green leaves.   View   View   #V36379

  VICTORIAN bangle with flower bouquet motif circa 1880s, 6-1/4" relaxed and will fit up to a 7" wrist, 1-5/8" wide at the front .  View   #V36377 

VICTORIAN chain necklace circa 1880s, a nice wearable length at 20" long and links from 7/8" down to 1/2" wide, has the original hook closure.  #V36378 

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite watch chain with oval double hole links, 20" long with links 1" by 3/4" down to 3/4" by 1/2", easily wearable as a neckalce.  View   #V31588

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a vulcanite locket on a black ribbon, 2-1/2" by 4". "Henry Knight, Artist & photographer, Regina House, Grand Parade, St. Leonard's on Sea".  View   View   #Vkph19

VICTORIAN vulcanite men's watch chain, also worn as a necklace, 17" long with graduated links from 1-1/4" by 3/4" down to 3/4" by 1/2".   View   #V31774

 

  
     VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) 54" long muff chain with very unusual "watermelon seed" or "crepe stone" beads and seed bead spacers, hook on the end. These beads were purposely made with a "bloomed" or matte finish in order to comply with obligatory mourning dress of the era.  See this on page 124 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  View   View   #V29215    VICTORIAN vulcanite collar necklace, 16-1/2" with black velvet ribbon to tie in a bow at the back for fastening. See Flower's "Victorian Jewellery" page 159.  View   View   #V26444    VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) beads muff or long chain, 56".    View   #V29256

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite links watch chain or necklace, 28" with each oval link being 7/8" by 3/4".   View   #V31407

VICTORIAN lady wearing vulcanite chain necklace and cross pendant, gold earrings and ring.  View

VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) and braided fabric Albert watch chain with tassels, 10".   View   #V29637

 


  JET is the black fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew millions of years ago. It is particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into jewelry and accessories. While jet was made into jewelry throughout the 1800's, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890. Like amber, it will pick up paper when static is created by rubbing it on wool or silk.

GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was used mainly in technical articles like driving belts, stoppers, tubs, pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was very rarely used for jewelry.


Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller's book Jet and in Christie Romero's Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3 on pages 51 and 52.

 

 

  VICTORIAN vulcanite fuchsia oval 1-7/8" locket on 28" chain, one link missing.   View   View   #V27201

    VICTORIAN vulcanite 15" chain with 18" ribbon and 2-5/8" deep relief teardrop shaped cameo pendant, 30".  See page 126 of Helen Muller's book "Jet" for a similar design.  View   #V27246

     VICTORIAN vulcanite teardrop shaped cameo pendant, 1-1/3".    V27238

 

     

 

    VICTORIAN lady wearing an elaborate cameo mourning piece.   View

   VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant on original chain, fastened with ribbon, 34" total. 4" pendant and chain.   View   #V27204    

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a cameo vulcanite necklace.  View

 

 
VICTORIAN vulcanite 18" links necklace with 2" grapes motif pendant.   View   #V29236  VICTORIAN vulcanite lady cameo large teardrop shaped pendant, 3".  View   View   #V33565 VICTORIAN vulcanite teardrop shaped grapes motif pendant with beaded edge, 1-5/8".   View   #V29242

 

 VICTORIAN vulcanite oval smooth 1-5/8" locket on 19" chain, circa 1880. See Flower's "Victorian Jewellery" page 178.  View   #V27239    VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite neck chain.   View    VICTORIAN vulcanite plain smooth oval locket with intricate design inside, 1-3/4".   View   #V29238

 

   VICTORIAN vulcanite lily-of-the-valley locket, photo cover on one side of inside, 1-7/8".   View   #V28893    

VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite neck chain and locket   View 

     VICTORIAN vulcanite pendant with trumpet flowers and leaves, 2".   View   #V26450

 

VICTORIAN lady with fancy hat and vulcanite necklace.   View

VICTORIAN vulcanite locket with 3-dimensinal forget-me-not flowers and leaves, 2-1/2".   View   View   #V27799

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a mourning necklace, brooch and earrings. 

 

 VICTORIAN vulcanite neck or watch chain with original clasp, 20" by 3/4".   #V25876

 VICTORIAN vulcanite thick graduated links watch chain or necklace, 22-1/2". Each link is graduated from 5/8" by 1/2" at the smallest up to 3/4" by 1" at the largest.    View   #V28209  

   VICTORIAN black bead muff chain, 54".  View   #V25993 

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite long Albert chain or necklace with hook end, 20".     #V29156 VICTORIAN vulcanite collar necklace, 14" by 1-1/3" with velvet ties on both sides, see Helen Mueller's Jet, page 84.   View   #V29157 VICTORIAN vulcanite oval links Albert chain, 18".   View   #V29160

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite chain with flat oval graduated 3/4"  by 1/2 smaller links and 7/8" by 1-1/4" larger links with hook closure, circa 1880, 20".   View   #V29448   VICTORIAN vulcanite watch chain, 13" with 4" decorative drop.   #V27236 VICTORIAN vulcanite chain, flat figure-8 graduated 5/8" by 7/8" smaller links and 7/8" by 1-1/4" larger links necklace with hook closure, circa 1880, 20".   View   #V29449

 

 VICTORIAN lady wearing vulcanite necklace with cross pendant.

   VICTORIAN vulcanite 24" necklace with carved 1-1/2" cross.   View   #V28802 

VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite pendant on a black ribbon.

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite beads, long strand 68".   #V27695

   VICTORIAN vulcanite 17" necklace with 2-1/2" anchor pendant. The anchor is the symbol of hope.   View   #V28557

   VICTORIAN dyed black wooden beads, knotted between each bead, silver hook closure, 52".  View   #V28416

 

VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) and braided fabric watch chain, 9-1/2".   View   #V29159    VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) beads Albertina chain for a pocket watch, 12".   View   #V28866    VICTORIAN vulcanite unusually patterned links Albert watch chain, 13".   View   #V29162

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite 15" by 5/8" watch chain with 1-1/2" pendant.   View   #V29471 VICTORIAN vulcanite necklace with unusually large square graduated links chain, 20" with links from 1" by 7/8" down to 5/8" by 1/2".   View   #V32217    VICTORIAN French jet (black glass) faceted and round beads muff chain with hook end, 51".   View   #V29446

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite graduated links necklace, 21" with links 1-1/4" by 7/8" graduating down to 3/4" by 1/2".   View   #V31336

VICTORIAN vulcanite chain, 20" long with links from 1/3" by 1/2" to 3/4" by 1".   View   #V28556 

VICTORIAN vulcanite long watch chain with oval fob, 15".   View   #V31333

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite links chain with hook closure, circa 1880, 20" by 5/8".     View   #V33986

VICTORIAN horn links necklace with hook closure circa 1880, 22" by 5/8".   View   #V61887

VICTORIAN horn chain necklace with hook closure circa 1880, a nice length at 21" by 1/2".   #V61802

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite watch chain and book charm, chain 14" book 1" by 3/4".   #V32621

 

 


  There are several materials used to make mourning jewelry, and they can be very difficult to distinguish between: jet, bog oak, horn and vulcanite. Jet was hand carved, while the other materials were pressed or molded.

For information on identifying these and other materials, see the booklet "What's It Made Of ?" by Sherry Shatz. 
 

 

 VICTORIAN vulcanite cross with leaves design pendant, 3-1/4".  View   #V29296 VICTORIAN bog oak cross carved with the name "Gladys", 2-2/3".   View   #V29206  VICTORIAN little bog oak carved cross pendant, 1-1/4".   View   #V29473

 

      VICTORIAN lady wearing parure of necklace, bracelet and earrings.   View   View

   VICTORIAN  vulcanite cross pendant, 3-1/8".    View   #V25356

VICTORIAN vulcanite cross with leaves design pendant, 3-1/4".  View   #V29296

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite lily cross pendant, 3" by 1-7/8" by 3/4" thick.   View   View   #V32620

VICTORIAN lady wearing matching jet cross pendant and earrings and a black neck ribbon. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4", marked on the back "Ulke Bros., No 1111 Penn. Avenue, Washington, DC, 1872" and hand written in ink "Julia, with love Judith". 
One photo expert contacted me wondering if this CDV might have been a gift to U.S. Grant's wife, Julia, as the Ulke Brothers were well known as photographers of the politically famous in Washington DC, and 1872 was the beginning of Grant's 2nd term as President. I would love to know who she is.

  VICTORIAN vulcanite cross pendant with design on the front, 2-1/8" by 1-1/3".  View   #V31334

 

    VICTORIAN large pressed horn cross, 4-1/2" by 2-1/2".  View   #V28200  

    VICTORIAN vulcanite cross on chain necklace, hook closure, 1-3/4" by 19".    View   #V29962  

VICTORIAN vulcanite long chain, 34".   View   #V29470

 

   
  VICTORIAN pressed horn "IHS" (In Hoc Signo) cross pendant, 3-1/3" by 2".   View   #V32825  

 

For more information about JET and other Victorian black jewelry we recommend the excellent book 'Jet' by Helen Muller.

Order a brand new black and white re-print of the original publication of  "JET" by Helen Muller with front cover in color. The first and only large book about jet jewelry and ornaments  ever published, it covers its history, geology and the materials used to simulate it (vulcanite, bog oak, pressed horn, etc.). There are 149 pages with wonderful black and white illustrations.
FIND OUT WHAT IS REAL WHITBY JET.
Buyer can request any signing of the book by the author.

The book is £12.50 plus postage £5.00 to USA from UK.

"Jet" by Helen Muller

Copies of the book can be obtained by contacting Helen Muller's daughter, Katy:  Email Katy  

Helen Muller


 

  Some Victorian vulcanite jewelry you may be interested in or Click here to view all Victorian vulcanite jewelry Jewelry for sale  
VICTORIAN vulcanite brooch, a flying cherub
VICTORIAN vulcanite brooch, a flying cherub
$248.00
VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding a rose brooch
VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding a rose brooch
$98.00
VICTORIAN vulcanite oval flower bouquet brooch
VICTORIAN vulcanite oval flower bouquet brooch
$98.00
Click here to view all Victorian vulcanite jewelry Jewelry for sale
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