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VICTORIAN & GEORGIAN JEWELRY
  Georgian Jewelry
  Portrait jewelry
  Victorian agate jewelry
  Victorian hair jewelry
  Victorian jet jewelry
  Victorian jet vulcanite earrings
  Victorian jewelry
  Victorian silver jewelry
  Victorian vulcanite jewelry

EDWARDIAN to Czech JEWELRY
  Czech & Lavilieres
  Edwardian & Filigree

FINE & BRIDGE JEWELRY
  Cameos
  Fine jewelry
  Lockets
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  Paste Jewelry
  Rings, Fine
  Rings, bridge & costume
  Silver Jewelry

BAKELITE
  Bakelite bangles
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  Bakelite, Shultz pins etc
  Bakelite, contemporary
  Bakelite, pins etc

COSTUME JEWELRY
  Bakelite, pins etc
  Boucher
  Bracelets, signed
  Bracelets, unsigned
  Brooches, signed
  Brooches, unsigned
  Carnegie
  Christmas jewelry
  Ciner
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  Clips, unsigned
  Copper Jewelry
  Coro
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  DeRosa
  Earrings, signed
  Earrings, unsigned
  Eisenberg
  Gourdji
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  Miriam Haskell
  Necklaces, signed
  Necklaces, unsigned
  Plastic jewelry
  Regency
  Reproductions
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  Sets & parures
  Signed, misc
  Swarovski
  Swoboda
  Trifari
  Vendome
  Vrba
  Weiss
  Wood jewelry

ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES
  Accessories
  Boxes, Jewelry & Other
  Desk Accessories
  Porcelain & Glass
  Purses
  Sewing items
  Sterling objects
 
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our references, " Jewel Chat " and " Morning Glory Collects ".
We do not, however, offer valuation or appraisal services or answer individual questions regarding jewelry or antiques. Appraisers can be found on the LINKS page.

 


Like many Victorian items, jewelry could hold a message to those who knew how to interpret it. In the calling cards the message was printed on the card, as shown below. A lady's hand was one of the most popular motifs in jewelry and the object the hand held symbolized the message. Examples are roses for love; a dove for the soul winging it's way to heaven; forget-me-nots for remembrance; a wreath for hope and eternal life. But some hands are lovely just for the grace of a human hand.
 

 

This scrap card is friendship greetings
"Friends will meet and friends will sever,
But true friendship lives forever."

"Life bear for you it's sweetest flowers"
The rose and dove symbolize peace and love.

"May true friends be around you"

 

  VICTORIAN pressed horn hand brooch, 2-7/8", holding roses and forget-me-nots wreath laurel sheaf symbolizing love victorious. English registry mark on the back for August 18, 1870.   View   View   #V8502

  VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding sheath and flowers brooch, 3". See hand brooches in Luthi's Sentimental Jewelry on page 20.  View   #V25275

     VICTORIAN pressed horn hand holding sheaf and flowers pin, 2-7/8". May 18, 1880 English registry mark on back. For a similar brooch see page 26 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments" and "Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3" page 51.  View   View   #V25278

 

  
  VICTORIAN vulcanite large hand holding wreath brooch, 3".   View   #V29234    VICTORIAN extra large vulcanite hand holding a wreath of wheat and roses brooch, 3".  View   #V29140  VICTORIAN vulcanite hand and flower brooch, 2-3/4".  Roses and forget-me-nots wreath laurel sheaf symbolize love victorious   View   #V25886      

 

HAND BROOCHES    Back view 
Top: hand holding wheat and flowers, probably made of horn, circa 1880, hallmarked on back. View   #V8502
Middle: Width 1-7/8".  #V13204   Bottom: Mother-of-pearl.   #V8500
  VICTORIAN lady wearing a hand brooch.  View    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand brooch, holds a wreath of roses, 1-5/8".  View   #V29895

 

      VICTORIAN hand holding flowers, a piece that was originally part of a bracelet.   View   #V25195  

 VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding wheat wreath and roses pin, 1-5/8".   View   #V26088

 VICTORIAN 2" vulcanite  hand brooch holding sheaf and wreath of roses, symbolic of hope and love.   View   #V13204 

 

   VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding sheaves pin, 2-7/8", small chip on back.    View   #V25346

    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding wreath of roses brooch.   View   #V27296

    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand brooch, 2-7/8".   View   #V27211 

 

 VICTORIAN creamy plastic hand holding fan pin, 1-7/8".   View   #V27251

    VICTORIAN mother-of-pearl hand pin, 1-3/4".  View   #V25274

  MOTHER-OF-PEARL 1-3/4" hand brooch holding a pearl and wearing a gold wire ring and bracelet.   View    #V8500 

 

    VICTORIAN  ivory hand pin with ring and bracelet, 1-7/8".    #V27847

VICTORIAN sterling hand pin and clip with tiny Persian turquoise stones, 925/100 mark on back, 1-1/2".   View   #V29842

VICTORIAN ivory hand brooch with yellow gold band "bracelet" and rod, 2".   View   #V31786 

 

     VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding fan pin, 2-1/3". Fans often referred to a flirtation. English registry mark on back dates this to May 18, 1880. See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".   View   View   #V25190

    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding key and rose pin, 2-7/8" . See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  View   #V25281

   VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding fan brooch, English registry mark on back for 1881, 2-1/3". See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  View   View   #V26702  

 

 
During part of the Victorian period from about 1860 to 1890, this jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color, not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, each carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well, and worn for its beauty and sentiment.

  JET is the black fossilized wood of a particular tree that grew millions of years ago. It is particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into jewelry and accessories. While jet was made into jewelry throughout the 1800's, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890. Like amber, it will pick up paper when static is created by rubbing it on wool or silk.

VULCANITE (also sometimes called "ebonite") was made by combining and heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur. Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved, and it was used mainly in making jewelry.

HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a brownish-black, and has a woody texture.

FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass, and not truly jet at all. Like all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or vulcanite.

BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly polished.

GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was used mainly in technical articles, e.g. driving belts, stoppers, tubs, pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was very rarely used for jewelry.

Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller's book Jet and in Christie Romero's Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3 on pages 51 and 52.

 

 

   VICTORIAN vulcanite hand with lacy cuff holding basket pin, 2-1/3".  View   #V25280

      VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding basket of fruit brooch, 3".   View   #V25880

   VICTORIAN vulcanite hand with fluted cuff holding basket pin, 2-1/4". See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  View   #V25279

 

VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding a basket of fruit brooch.    View   #V29146   VICTORIAN jet hand brooch, crescent shaped with a hand holding arc of flowers, 1-3/4".  View   #V25878    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding basket brooch with c-catch, circa 1880, .   View   #V27230

 

     VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding basket brooch, Rd No 15623 for date 1885, 2-3/4". Old c-catch replaced long ago with a safety catch.   View   #V27230    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding basket brooch, circa 1880, 1-3/4".   View   #V28133     VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding basket of fruit brooch, 2-1/4".   View   #V27376

 

 

VICTORIAN horn hand with basket of fruit brooch, 2-1/4" .  View   #V29814

   VICTORIAN pressed horn hand holding basket brooch, marked on back "Rd. 15623", 2-1/4".   View   View   #V29763

 

 

  VICTORIAN  hand pins to show comparative sizes. See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".

     VICTORIAN vulcanite "Fede" or clasped hands pin signifying friendship, 2-5/8". English registry mark on back May 18, 1880.  View   View   #V25192

   VICTORIAN jet pendant with painted porcelain lady with a mirror portrait, 2".   View   #V25926 

 

   VICTORIAN vulcanite hand pin, 2-1/4".  View   #V25277

    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand with rose symbolizing love brooch, 1-3/4".   View   #V29144  

   VICTORIAN vulcanite hand with pointing finger brooch, 2-1/8".  View   #V28894

 

    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding rose for love brooch, 1-7/8".   View   #V25194

  VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding rose brooch, 2-1/4".  See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  View   #V27225  

  VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding single flower pin, 1-3/4".  View   #V25276  

 

  VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding wild roses brooch, 2".   View   #V25187

     VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding forget-me-nots brooch, 1-5/8".  View   #V24995

   VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding flowers pin, 2-1/8".  View   #V25191

 

 VICTORIAN hand surrounded by flowers pin, very unusual carved vulcanite, 2-1/8". See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".   View   #V25193

    VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding bird pin, 2". "P. Pat No.13124", circa 1884.  View   #V26449

   VICTORIAN  pressed horn hand surrounded by wreath brooch, 2-1/8". See similar brooch in Carole Tanenbaum's "Fabulous Fakes" on page 22.  View   #V25925

 

  VICTORIAN vulcanite hand brooch holding daisies, 2-1/2".    View    #V28370     VICTORIAN vulcanite hand brooch in a very unusual shape, 2-1/3".  View   View   #V28774 VICTORIAN vulcanite hand holding tennis racket brooch, 2-1/8".  See page 127 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  View   #V29509

 

For more information about JET and other Victorian black jewelry we recommend the excellent book 'Jet' by Helen Muller.

Order a brand new black and white re-print of the original publication of  "JET" by Helen Muller with front cover in color. The first and only large book about jet jewelry and ornaments  ever published, it covers its history, geology and the materials used to simulate it (vulcanite, bog oak, pressed horn, etc.). There are 149 pages with wonderful black and white illustrations.
FIND OUT WHAT IS REAL WHITBY JET.
Buyer can request any signing of the book by the author.

The book is £12.50 plus postage £5.00 to USA from UK.

"Jet" by Helen Muller

Copies of the book can be obtained by contacting Helen Muller's daughter, Katy:  Email Katy  

Helen Muller

 

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