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We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our references, " Jewel Chat " and " Morning Glory Collects ".
We do not, however, offer valuation or appraisal services or answer individual questions regarding jewelry or antiques. Appraisers can be found on the LINKS page.

 

 


  During part of the Victorian period from about 1860 to 1890, this jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color, not just an ornament of mourning. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, each carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well, and worn for its beauty and sentiment.     

 

 

VICTORIAN bog oak and gold brooch with carved shamrocks, a very early and unusual piece, early 1800s, 1-1/2".   View   #V29953

 VICTORIAN painted gypsy boy brooch set in black pressed horn brooch, 1-1/2".   View   #V31811

VICTORIAN bog oak carved round brooch with the rose for England, shamrock for Ireland and thistle for Scotland, 1-1/2".   View   View   #V29890

 

  VICTORIAN pressed horn bracelet, floral motif on front and side links, elastic 3/4" wide 1-5/8" front oval, 6-1/4" to 8" wrist. View #V26089

VICTORIAN pressed horn bracelet with round floral center and 9 square floral side pieces, 6-1/2" by 1".   View   View  View  #V25883

   VICTORIAN pressed horn bracelet each piece patterned in diamond shapes, exp by 1" & 1-5/8".   View   View  #V25877

 


  HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a very dark brownish-black, and has a woody texture.

 

 

VICTORIAN horn wreath brooch, 2-1/3" by 1-3/4".   View   #V29883

VICTORIAN lady wearing a pair of jet earrings and a fern brooch. R. Riter & Co. Photographers, Bombay & Poona, India.  View   View   View

VICTORIAN bog oak large fern brooch with gold accents, 2", as is cracked but stable.   View   View   #V29956

 

VICTORIAN bog oak carved castle and ribbed links bracelet, 6-1/2" by 1-1/3".   View   View   View   #V29458  VICTORIAN carved bog oak "Empire" bracelet with carved Irish shamrocks, English roses and Scottish thistles links with paste centers strung on elastic, 6-1/3" when relaxed by 1" wide.   View   View   View   #V29457    VICTORIAN bog oak carved round links bracelet with harp, roses and shamrocks design, 7" by 1-1/4".   View   View   #V29445 

 

VICTORIAN large bog oak brooch, castle, 1-3/4".   View   #V28875

 VICTORIAN bog oak carved abbey brooch signed "Ross" on the back, 1-3/4", see Muller Jet, page 122.   View   View   #V29205

  VICTORIAN bog oak brooch, carved Gothic castle scene, 2". For a similar brooch see page 29 in Helen Muller's "Jet Jewellery and Ornaments" and on page 139 of Bell's "Collecting Victorian Jewelry".  .   View   #V25881

 

VICTORIAN bog oak brooch, carved abbey, 1-5/8".   View   #V29954

VICTORIAN vulcanite harp brooch with shamrocks, a very unusual copy of a bog oak piece, 1-7/8" by 1-1/2".   View   #V29963

VICTORIAN bog oak brooch, shamrock center, 1-1/2".   View   View   #V29955

 

   VICTORIAN pressed horn bracelet with floral and geo motif, 1-1-1/4" wide and 6-1/2" strung on elastic.   View   #V27902

      VICTORIAN very unusual set of pressed horn matching bracelets of embossed plaques strung on elastic, 6-1/2" by 7/8".   View   View   #V27794

     VICTORIAN pressed horn bracelet, geometric motif, 7/8" by 6-1/2" strung on elastic.   #V27903

 

VICTORIAN bog oak carved shamrocks bracelet, 7" by 1" to 2-1/4" wide.   View   #V31328

VICTORIAN bog oak carved shamrocks bracelet, 7" by 1" to 2-1/4" wide. A similar piece can be seen on page 130 of Bell's "Collecting Victorian Jewelry".    View   #V31329

VICTORIAN bog oak bracelets, unusual matched set.   #V31328 and #V31329

 

VICTORIAN bog oak shamrock shaped hand carved perpetual calendar with all it's celluloid leaves, circa 1880,  measures 3-1/2" by 3-1/4". The design is scrolls and shamrocks, typical pf the era. BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland.  View   #V35666

 VICTORIAN bog oak truncheon with carved Irish harp and shamrocks design, 13-1/4" length.    View   View   #V31586

VICTORIAN bog oak hand carved whist trump marker stand with harp and shamrocks designs, circa 1880,  measures 2-1/4" by 2-5/8". It has all it's 5 celluloid leaves. BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland.  #V35665 

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN bog oak hand carved abbey motif earrings, 1".   View   #V29207

 

 


  JET is the black fossilized wood of a particular tree, the Monkey Puzzle tree, that grew millions of years ago. It is particularly associated with the English town of Whitby where much of it was fashioned into jewelry and accessories. While jet was made into jewelry throughout the 1800's, it was especially fashionable between 1860 and 1890. Like amber, it will pick up paper when static is created by rubbing it on wool or silk.

VULCANITE (also sometimes called "ebonite") was made by combining and heating sap of the Euphorbia or Ficus trees from Malaysia with sulphur. Invented in 1843 by Thomas Hancock, pieces made of vulcanite were almost always molded, not carved, and it was used mainly in making jewelry.

HORN is the natural horn of an animal, pressed into a mold to form jewelry.

BOG OAK is fossilized wood or peat found in Ireland. It is a very dark brownish-black, and has a woody texture.

FRENCH JET and CREPE STONE are black glass, and not truly jet at all. Like all glass, they will be colder to the touch and heavier than jet or vulcanite.

BOIS DURCI was invented by Francois Charles Lepag in 1856. It is a composition of fine hardwood sawdust and blood which is pressed then highly polished.

GUTTA PERCHA is the sap of the Dichopsis tree also found in Malaysia. Invented by William Montgomerie in 1843, it was used mainly in technical articles, e.g. driving belts, stoppers, tubs, pails, cups, washing drums and cables. It was also used for household purposes such as mouthpieces for whistles, sticks and riding whips. It was very rarely used for jewelry.


Pieces like these, circa 1860-1890, can be seen in Helen Muller's book Jet and in Christie Romero's Warman's Jewelry, Ed. 3 on pages 51 and 52.

 

 

VICTORIAN pressed horn butterfly pin, 2".  See page 121 of Helen Muller's book "Jet".  View   #V25282

VICTORIAN carte de visite of a lady wearing a bog oak brooch, a double strand of jet beads from which a cross is suspended and earrings, 2-1/2" by 4". "W. Turner, 40 Albion Street, Leeds".  View   View   #Vkph18          

   VICTORIAN oval horn bird brooch, very three dimensional, 2-1/8".   View   #V26280

 

VICTORIAN pressed horn "tire tread" segments strung on elastic bracelet, relaxed size 6-1/4" by 1".    #V31805

VICTORIAN horn bracelet, as is with small flaw on one link, elastic is adjustable, best on a wrist of 5-1/2" to 6", links are 3/4" wide.    View   View   #V31771

VICTORIAN bog oak segments strung on elastic bracelet, relaxed size 6" by 5/8" wide.   #V31802

 

       

   

   

  VICTORIAN pressed horn with criss-cross designed links strung on elastic bracelet, fits a smaller 6-6-1/2" wrist, 1" wide.   View   #V29228

 VICTORIAN black pressed horn bracelet on elastic, 6" relaxed by 1-3/4".   View   #V29952 

VICTORIAN pressed horn matching flower bracelets, set of two, 7" by 5/8".   #V28058

 

   VICTORIAN double strand of jet beads and an ivory cherub brooch worn by Her Royal Highness, The Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lorne (Louise Caroline Alberta, b. 3-18-1848, d. 12-3-1939). She was the 4th of Queen Victoria's daughters.

   VICTORIAN bog oak rare and very old carved bead necklace, probably early 1800s, 36" long, See page 122 of Helen Muller's book "Jet" and Dawes & Collings "Georgian Jewellery, 1714-1830" page 167 View   #V29209

VICTORIAN lady wearing large hoop skirt and jet bead long chain.

 

  VICTORIAN pressed horn large rectangular brooch, 2-1/2" by 1-3/4".   View   View   #V29469

VICTORIAN pressed and pierced oval horn brooch, 1-3/4".  View   #V28204 

  VICTORIAN large pressed horn leaves and scrolls brooch, 2".  View   #V29139

 

      VICTORIAN pressed horn flower brooch, 2".   View   #V27210

    VICTORIAN pressed horn leaves and berries brooch, 1-1/2".   View   #V27795

   VICTORIAN bog oak domed brooch with paste shamrocks, 1-3/4".   View  #V27660     

 

 VICTORIAN pressed horn bow brooch with abalone insets, English registry mark for August 18, 1880 , 2".   View   View   #V29227

    VICTORIAN horn with inset mother-of-pearl and gold metal bow pin, hallmarked on the back, 2".   View   #V28193

   VICTORIAN pressed horn bow brooch with tiny embossed flowers, 2".  View   #V29133 

 

   VICTORIAN pressed horn pin with bird and leaves design, 1-5/8".   View   #V27242

  VICTORIAN pressed horn lily-of-the-valley brooch, 1-3/4".   View   #V27377   

 VICTORIAN pressed horn double horseshoe and blacksmiths nail pin, 1-3/4".   View   #V28060  

 

VICTORIAN bog oak carved swirl brooch, 1-5/8".   View   #V29211    VICTORIAN unusual horn links Prince Albert chain, 12". See page 121 of  Helen Muller's book "Jet".   View   #V28868   VICTORIAN bog oak small round brooch with Irish shamrocks design, 7/8".  View   #V29210

 

For more information about JET and other Victorian black jewelry we recommend the excellent book 'Jet' by Helen Muller.

Order a brand new black and white re-print of the original publication of  "JET" by Helen Muller with front cover in color. The first and only large book about jet jewelry and ornaments  ever published, it covers its history, geology and the materials used to simulate it (vulcanite, bog oak, pressed horn, etc.). There are 149 pages with wonderful black and white illustrations.
FIND OUT WHAT IS REAL WHITBY JET.
Buyer can request any signing of the book by the author.

The book is £12.50 plus postage £5.00 to USA from UK.

"Jet" by Helen Muller

Copies of the book can be obtained by contacting Helen Muller's daughter, Katy:  Email Katy  

Helen Muller

 
 

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