VICTORIAN JEWELRY 1837 to 1901

Victorian jewelry is as complex in it's symbolism, sentiment and design as the fashion, architecture and decor of the time. Worn as an ornament, a love token or a remembrance, jewelry not only completed the well-dressed lady's costume but also denoted her position in society, her marital status and her sense of self.

Since the Victorian era stretched over six decades, many types of jewelry came and went in style. Mass production made jewelry available to the widest number of buyers in the broadest range of designs ever seen before in history. When it came to formal occasions, the "more is better" theme of the Victorian era carried over into how jewelry was worn by royalty and the aristocracy. Paintings of Queen Victoria and other royals at state occasions show multiple brooches, swags, earrings, bracelets and hair ornaments. But the jewelry of the everyday folk is collectible, fascinating and a lesson in history that enchants us even today.

Whether fashioned in the home as a lady's craft or professionally by a hair weaver or a jewelry maker, hair jewelry was the height of the romanticism and sentiment that characterized the Victorian era. Some pieces were done as mourning pieces or "momento mori" ("remember you must die"). While some may find this morbid, for the Victorians death was a common and accepted part of everyday life especially due to the higher infant mortality rate and the devastation of the Civil War.

Hair jewelry was not always mourning jewelry, however, as it was also crafted as love tokens from sweethearts, family members and cherished friends.  Rings might be engraved with loving messages and memorials either on the face or inside the band, and might also have hidden compartments for the hair. Brooches came in all sizes from the daintiest lace pin to a larger 3" oval meant to be worn at the neck. Watch chains and bracelets often show the most ingenious hair weaving techniques with more than one color of hair often used, as perhaps a chain given by three daughters to their father.

Black was the color of mourning, and jet, gutta percha and molded horn were fashioned into socially accepted mourning jewelry. Black enameling was a frequent element, as well as seed pearls accents denoting tears, and flowers which carried a message, the most obvious of which is the forget-me-not.

Valued among collectors are engraved pieces, especially if dated; well-crafted intricate pieces with unusual motifs; and pieces that might include photographs or hand-painted portraits along with the encased lock of hair. As with all jewelry, condition is important with these delicate treasures. Hair jewelry is difficult to effectively repair, so pieces in excellent condition command a premium.
 

   VICTORIAN HAIR bracelet with a purple stone in the clasp. Four colors of hair made up this bracelet, and was probably made by four daughters for their mother. It is 7" long and 1-1/4" wide.  #V1957

  MEMORIAL hair ring with pearl surround and blonde hair. Size 7-1/4 and engraved, " Joseph Dixon died 16th Jan.y 1815 aged 50".  Engraving   #V15165

VICTORIAN gold and enameled 1-7/8" hair brooch with "In Memory Of" encircling frame, engraved on back: 
Ms Buchannan
died 12th Nov 1843
John Wilson died 4th June 1843
    Engraving
Size 1-7/8" by 1-1/2".

  VICTORIAN chalcedony, enamel and turquoise brooch with forget-me-not motif, 2".  View   View   #V14952 

    PORTRAIT PENDANT This 2-3/4" hand painted portrait circa 1840 also has a lock of hair
on the back.    View   #V3810

      HAND BROOCHES These are mother-of-pearl and molded horn mourning brooches.  The top is 2-7/8" hand holding a sheaf of wheat and wreath of roses; middle is 2", bottom is 1-3/4".  View   View 

  VICTORIAN  hair ring with shield front, size 9-1/4.   #V21550

   VICTORIAN hair watch fob with crystal barrel.  View    #V4399

What is more classic and timeless than a cameo? Though they long pre-date the Victorian era, for Victorians who loved travel, a cameo might represent a meaningful souvenir of a Grand European Tour. Both men and women worn cameos set as necklaces, brooch, rings and earrings for women, and watch fobs, rings  and stick pins for men. The Victorian fascination with all things historic is demonstrated in the classical Greek profiles and mythological motifs. Reflecting the Victorians love of gardening and nature, floral cameos were also popular. Carved in seashell, ivory, lava or stone, cameos could be set in precious or non-precious metals. Although thought of as primarily an Italian art, there were also cameo carvers in America and other countries.

Quality and beauty of carving is the prime factor determining value, but cameos set in precious metal ornamented with diamonds, seed pearls or enameling are most desirable. Check condition by holding the cameo up to the light to detect possible cracks.

   CAMEO with lovely seed pearls surrounding the 14 karat setting.   #U4001

   CAMEO in 14 karat twist setting... she has an anchor motif at her shoulder and a star in her hair.   #Uagnes2

FLORAL bouquet cameo in a 14 karat setting.   View   #U20323

Colorful souvenir jewelry was purchased on Victorian travels. Italian mosaics and pietra dura pieces were popular for decades, and can still be purchased today. Older mosaic pieces tend to be more intricate and well-made, and done in softer colors with greater detail. Travel souvenir pieces were also made of Scottish "pebbles", seashells, bog oak, and other materials typical of their area of manufacture.

Historically inspired jewelry was prompted by the study of ancient Pompeii, Egypt, Greece and Rome, and the motifs included designs from wall paintings and excavated jewelry.  Heavier Renaissance and Medieval style jewelry combined well with the heavier Victorian fashions as well, and later in the century, Oriental motifs provided further inspiration.

Plant collecting was a passionate Victorian hobby, and natural motifs were also reflected in jewelry. Amazing novelty jewelry was made of everything from small real birds to beetles and other insects. Novel also was the way in which Victorians viewed this type of adornment. What we today might think grotesque they saw as innovative, and reflective of their interest in nature, science and leisure activities.

Jewelry could also be mechanically innovative, with moving parts and trembling portions to attract the eye. Advertising jewelry is rare, and one of the most unusual pieces of Victorian jewelry is this advertising bracelet, evidentially promoting a Victorian era London clothier.

  VICTORIAN 7"  by 1" agate bracelet with an engraved plaque that says, "AR Clothier. 111 London. Rd. Chippenham. WRCD 47/2".   View   View   View   View   #23382

Very unusual advertising bracelet.

   PIETRA DURA floral brooch.

    ITALIAN MOSAIC floral 1" round pin in soft pastel colors.   View   #Y18684

In the days before photography, a hand-painted portrait miniature was a desirable keepsake or love token. While some of these miniature art works were done of actual people including both royalty and everyday folks, others were painted of mythological characters and fictional lovely ladies. Mother-of-pearl, ivory and vellum were often used as paint surfaces. Settings range from the simplest rolled gold twist frame brooch to gem encrusted wonders. Artists who did portrait miniatures were called "limners", and they did not only pieces for jewelry, but also work meant to be framed for display, often in lacquered wood or ivory embellished frames.  Some traveled from city to city taking commissions as they went. Portraits could be worn on velvet ribbons around the neck, as brooches, rings and bracelets, and in lockets. Even men occasionally worn portraits suspended around the neck under their shirts.

Collectors prefer artist-signed pieces, lovely ladies and children, and identifiable individuals. Portraits that combine enclosures for hair or include an engraved notation are also sought after.

  VICTORIAN lady wearing a portrait brooch, cut steel buttons and diamond earrings. Cabinet card size 4-1/4" by 6-1/2", marked "J. O. Herbert, Grand Rapids, Wis."

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a portrait brooch.

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a portrait brooch and a watch chain with a ring as an ornament. Cabinet card size 4-1/4" by 6-1/2" marked on the front "Younge, Over Glenn's, Franklin Square, Utica, NY".   View

  VICTORIAN lady wearing a portrait brooch and watch chain. Cabinet Card size 4-1/4" by 6-1/2" marked "Jacoby, Minneapolis" on the front.

      PORTRAIT PIECES This 2-3/4" hand painted portrait circa 1840 also has a lock of hair on the back.    View   #V3810

    PORTRAIT 2-1/8" brooch hand painted on porcelain in a twisted gold tone setting.    View   #V23717

   PORTRAIT BROOCH set in mother-of-pearl 1-5/8 inch brooch.   View     #V16362

  VICTORIAN portrait brooch, 2-1/2". This lady dressed in plum is delicately hand painted on a porcelain disk set into a twisted gold filled setting. Notice the detail of the feather in her hat.   View   #V22943 

Photography was an invention of the Victorian era, and photographic jewelry represented a permanent way to document beloved friends and family. Since the opportunity to be photographed was not as prevalent as it is now, a photo was a precious thing. Worn as brooches, cufflinks and pendants, these faces from the past were most often mounted in non-precious metals under crystal or celluloid covers for protection.

Collectors especially appreciate pictures of lovely women and children, Civil War soldiers and subjects wearing interesting clothing or jewelry. Here again, the addition of engraving, especially dates and love messages, makes the piece more interesting.

Great Aunt Mary and my Grandmother Agnes as young girls, circa 1890's.   View

  My very bearded great great grandfather, circa 1870.   View 

  My favorite Aunt Sissie, circa 1900.   View

  Photo brooch of three of my Victorian-era uncles.   View

Well-dressed ladies wore "long chains", sometimes looped and caught on the bodice with a brooch, sometimes worn full length, and often holding a lorgnette or watch. Chains were made in both precious and non-precious metals, and could be extremely simple or ornamented with stones and seed pearls. Some had slides, which have become collectible in their own right. Today's collectors create bracelets from them, as well as from fobs, button covers and cuff link tops.

The lorgnettes in sterling and karat gold, those with lovely enameling or gem stones, and those with a strong design sense (for example Art Nouveau or Arts & Crafts) are most desirable. Some collectors have their own prescription mounted into an old lorgnette so that they are actually useable.

Could she wear more jewelry? Multiple bracelets and rings are shown to their best advantage by her pose, including a bracelet of polished agate stones.   View

  Corset stays made this wasp-waisted dress possible, and the draping watch chain highlights her small waist.

   In addition to her decorative belt buckle, this lady wears a long chain and hair earrings made in the shape of acorns.

    Her long chain probably held a lorgnette at the end. 

  Lorgnette of gold washed silver with enameling, semi-precious stones and pearls, 5-1/2" by 1-1/4". Tiny mark "800" on the glasses hinge. Circa 1900.   View    View    View    View    #L13478

UNGER sterling lady face lorgnette, 4-3/4" by 1-1/2".   View    View    #L14745

  LORGNETTE sterling Art Nouveau Iris motif, 5" by 1-1/4".  View   View  #L20909

    LORGNETTE sterling with flower motif, 5-1/3" by 1-1/4".   View   View    #L4619

  VICTORIAN gold tone bracelet with watch fobs as charms.  View   #V17891

BRACELET made of turn-of-the-century cuff link covers. View    View    View   #V18690

 VICTORIAN gold tone bracelet with crystal fobs as charms.   #V10721

    VICTORIAN gold tone bracelet with watch fobs as charms.  View   #V22040

  BLACK JEWELRY During the Victorian period, from about 1860 to 1880, mourning jewelry was the height of fashion and black was a stylish color. Made of jet, vulcanite, bog oak or pressed horn, each carried special meaning as a memento of a loved one. A brooch in the shape of a hand carrying a bouquet conveyed a message symbolized by the flowers. Photos might be housed inside lockets and watch fobs, and portraits hand painted on pendants and earrings. While some black jewelry was meant to be worn during mourning, black jewelry was fashionable as well, and worn for its beauty and sentiment.

VICTORIAN lady wearing jet mourning beads with her fancy hat laying on the table top before her. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4", marked on the back, "J. Raine, Portrait & Landscape Photographer, Richmond, Yorkshire" with a roses and trellis design.

    VICTORIAN lady wearing a portrait pendant set in jet on a black neck ribbon and a bog oak oval brooch at her neckline. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/4", marked "R.P. Skeolan, Harrogate" on the front and "miniature painter" on the back.  View

   VICTORIAN lady wearing a vulcanite hand brooch on her lacy necklace and faceted jet bracelet on her arm. Carte de viste size 2-1/2" by 4-1/8", marked W.J. Wellsted & Son, 19 & 20 Paragon St, Hull on both front and back, and "Photographers of the Prince & Princess of Wales" along with "Copies can be had at any time or an enlargement finished in oil or watercolors" on the back. Back also has a birds and bamboo design.  View