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  Home » Morning Glory Collects » Jewel Chat Design
Jewel Chat Design  
We work constantly to offer extensive jewelry research, pictures and information in our references, " Jewel Chat " and " Morning Glory Collects ".
We do not, however, offer valuation or appraisal services or answer individual questions regarding jewelry or antiques. Appraisers can be found on the LINKS page.

 


Jewelry Design Art


 


Jewelry designers first developed their ideas on paper, thereby using material that was meant to be temporary. Because of that, we are fortunate to have any of these miniature art works remaining. They demonstrate the development from an original idea to the finished product, and lend insight into the creative process.

The art work and designs on paper shown below are from the DeRosa, Haskell and Barclay companies. The first rows show actual jewelry made from each design, and the other rows show jewelry that is similar or in the same style.
 

 

    BARCLAY brooch of green enameled leaves, red enameled ladybug and clear rhinestone pave pods, 3-5/8" by 3", Barclay by Rice-Weiner Alvin and Robert Rice, Louis Mark, circa 1950, Rhode Island. This brooch comes with the BARCLAY original design art work for this brooch. It is interesting to see that the original idea was for the pods to be green enamel, but in the finished brooch leaves are green instead. The process of jewelry design is documented here. To see more jewelry design art work, click HERE.   View   #X23718

  BARCLAY original art work for a brooch design.   BARCLAY  unsigned blue and white enameled gold tone 2-7/8" fawn pin.   View   #X23598 

 BARCLAY original art work for a fawn brooch.

 

  DeROSA bouquet of violets fur clip, 2-1/2 inches.    View   View   View   #d18705

   De Rosa original art work design for the clip shown at right... the note at the bottom reads "violets", and the clip was indeed done in violets instead of the forget-me-nots originally illustrated.  #140 

    DeROSA sterling cream and green enameled floral fur clip, 2-1/2".  View   #d23488

De Rosa #103

 

     The real but unsigned De Rosa brooch made from the design at left.   #d20435

       The De Rosa original art work design for the bird brooch shown at the right.  #174

DeROSA arrowroot floral clip.   View   #d21160  

   De Rosa Arrowroot design art work for the clip shown at left.  #146      

 

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

   DeROSA sterling vermeil bow fur clip with red and clear rhinestones and artificial pearls.  View   #d23729

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

   DeROSA sterling vermeil 3" bow fur clip.  View  #d21837 

 

  BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

 FLOWER 3-1/3" brooch in gold tone with green enameled leaves and glass ball stamen.   View  #Y21843

  BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

 GOLD TONE leaf with silver tone accents and clear and red rhinestone flowers, a large 4" brooch.   View  #Y23339

 

 BARCLAY art work for a brooch, earrings and rings designs.

  BARCLAY art work for a necklace design.   NECKLACE sterling vermeil clear and green rhinestones 15-1/3" necklace with 2-1/2" drops.  View   View   #Y18972 

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

 

  BARCLAY art work for a brooch, earrings and rings designs.

 UNSIGNED large purple and clear rhinestones brooch, 3-1/2".   View   #Y22107

De Rosa design for a fur clip.

De Rosa 2-1/8" fur clip with aqua rhinestone center.    View   View  #d19070

 

   CORO  green emerald-cut and clear rhinestones fur clip in gold tone, 2".   View   #C23602

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.   DeROSA fur clip with aqua and clear rhinestones set in sterling vermeil.   View   #d19782

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

 

Clip marked only "sterling".
Courtesy of  Deborah Kosnett

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.   RETRO sterling vermeil and purple rhinestones brooch, 2-1/2".    View   #Y23610

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

 

 CLEAR rhinestones 1-1/2" retro style pin set in silver tone. It also has a loop on the back so that it can be worn as a pendant.  View  #Y21751

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design. DeROSA sterling fur clip retro swirl with clear rhinestones, 2-5/8".   View   #d22405

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch design.

 

   BARCLAY art work for a brooch, earrings and rings designs.

    RETRO sterling vermeil brooch with purple rhinestone center, red rhinestones on each ray tip, and clear rhinestone accents.   View   #Y23610       BARCLAY art work for a ring design.

     BARCLAY art work for a ring design.

 

De Rosa design for a fur clip.

   BARCLAY art work for a ring design.     RETRO rose gold toned pin with pink and blue rhinestones, 2-1/4".  View   #Y22999

De Rosa design for a fur clip.

 

BARCLAY art work for a ring design.

     RETRO 14k yellow gold ring with rubies and diamonds.   View
Courtesy of Ann Crandall
 BARCLAY art work for a ring design.

DE ROSA 2-1/3" fur clip with a large oval faceted red rhinestone center and clear rhinestone accents. This clip also came in another color, VIEW here.  View   #d19834  

 

   DEROSA retro purple rhinestone and artificial pearl brooch, 2" by 2-3/4".  View   #d23931

DeRosa design art work.
Marked in pencil "Done 3-13-44"   #230 

   RETRO aqua-blue rhinestone clip, 2-1/8".   View   View   #Y8143

 


Jewelry Advertising Art


 


Jewelry makers also used artists renderings of finished jewelry as advertisements in stores and magazines. The Miriam Haskell original watercolors shown here were hung in shops and distributed to buyers at department stores. Most of these are thought to have been painted by Larry Austin, an illustrator about whom little is known other than this work.
 

 

 
   HASKELL Hess chartreuse, burnt sienna and tan glass beads and gold tone leaves expansion bracelet, 3-1/4" front, and matching clip. See Gordon & Pamfiloff's "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" page 130.    #H26051   HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clip, numbered "815" on back in pencil, 8" by 10".  View   #H26053    HASKELL early unsigned Frank Hess design from circa 1940. This 4" dress clip is made up of chartreuse, coral and tan glass beads.   View    #H23939 
And this HASKELL is a brooch, not a clip.  View #H21112

 

      HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass bead and artificial pearl dress clips, set of 2.  (See "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff, page 160.)   View  #Y23940

  HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clips/necklace, lady in furs, written in  pencil on the back  #1160.   #H27270 

  HASKELL early unsigned aqua glass bead and artificial pearls on fabric metal coil bracelet, circa 1940, 1/2" thick each, side motif 2-1/2". (See "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" by Gordon & Pamfiloff, page 160.)    View   #H26809

 

  HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell bracelet and clip/necklace of pastel blue glass leaves and beads, marked in pencil on the back "930A" and "left", 8" x 10".  #H27268   Entire group  of HASKELL blue glass bracelets and clips.   View
See Gordon & Pamfiloff's "Miriam Haskell Jewelry" page 31.
   HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell pink glass beads and leaves bracelet and clip, foil "Miriam Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10",  written in  pencil on the back  #615.   #H24366

 

  HASKELL 26" lariat necklace with 2" clips at each end, 15" necklace and 3-3/4" fur clip. See the ad for this set in Deanna Cera's "Jewels of Miriam Haskell" on page 29, bottom right. the ad states, "Miriam Haskell makes costume jewelry and Harvey Nichols have it!".      HASKELL Larry Austin original watercolor advertising illustration for Haskell flattened bead and metal leaves bracelet and clip with foil "Miriam Haskell" sticker, 8" by 10", framed so back is not visible.  #H24365     HASKELL early unsigned lariat necklace, purple pink and green beads, 26" long with 2" dress clip ends.   View   View   #H24989

 

 


JEWELRY DESIGN

In November 2004, Brenda, a long-time jewelry dealer and collector, wrote
: My husband and I are just back from at trip to New York City. We had the opportunity to see two fabulous jewelry shows in progress at the American Folk Art Museum.  Both are of fine jewelry. 

The first show we saw was "Seaman Schepps - A Century of New York Jewelry Design."  Much of this jewelry was designed from the early 1930s to the late 1950s.  He catered to a celebrity clientele from Hollywood to royalty. The jewelry was often pictured in glamorous photos in old Vogue magazines.  
Over and over, I saw how fine jewelry was the direct inspiration for our vintage costume jewelry, particularly in Trifari, Coro and even K.J.L
.  I had to keep reminding myself that what I was looking at was REAL, as I have almost line for line copies in vintage costume jewelry. I realized that my beloved Lucite jelly bellies were copied from figurals originally done in gold and rock crystal.
One example is the Trifari jelly belly bird brooch, shown at right.
 
       TRIFARI "jelly belly" bird brooch in brushed gold tone with rhinestones. View #T6116  
  The same is true of pearl bellies, tuttie fruity (which we call fruit salad), and invisibly set stones. Many of K.J.L.'s (Kenneth J Lane's) designs look very similar to Schepp's jeweled menagerie. Even the stylized  Hattie Carnegie figurals done with orange and green lucite saw their origination from the designs by Seaman Schepps

The second show (right across the street) was "Masterpieces of American Jewelry".  These fine jewels were by the best of the best - Tiffany, Cartier, etc.  Tiffany did a series of enamel and diamond orchid brooches in the 1890s, and Coro mimicked them in the enamel and rhinestone orchid pins done in the 1940s, like the one shown at left.
 
        CORO sterling vermeil orchid brooch with purple and yellow enamel and clear rhinestones, circa 1945.   View   #C21466  

 

These lovely designs were shared with us courtesy of Cheri Van Hoover of "Milky Way Jewels". Which company or designer created them is still a mystery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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