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GENERAL GUIDELINES
Compare Known With Unknown
Whenever possible compare a known with your unknown. Often the
identification becomes obvious when this is done. Ask a knowledgeable and
willing collector or seller to let you handle some items. Most people will
be anxious to share their treasures and information with you.
Handle A Lot Of Jewelry - Often (the fun part!)
The more jewelry you handle, the easier it becomes to identify jewelry
materials. With experience comes accuracy. Go to auction previews, attend
antique and collectible shows, and visit dealers who have jewelry for
sale. Examine and hold pieces; try them on. Read, take classes and attend
a seminar! The more you know, the easier it becomes.
Keep An Open Mind
Think first of the most common and not of the rarest material. Usually
materials of similar value are found together, but , remember that humans
are creative. We make changes and by the time you see an item it may not
be the same as when it was originally crafted.
Keep A Timeline In your Head
Knowing when certain materials and findings were first patented and
used can help you identify materials. Having knowledge about what
materials were used with particular styles can also help. I suggest the
Timeline in Warman's Jewelry by Christie Romero.
Make More Than One Observation Or Test
"It's orange, ooh! it must be coral!" Not necessarily. Try
not to jump to conclusions. Do several tests and make more than one
observation before deciding what your article is made of.
USING YOUR SENSES
SIGHT Get the piece into good light.
Natural daylight is best but when indoors or at night, incandescent
lighting works better than fluorescent. If the item is dirty, gently wipe
it off with a soft cloth. Do not use water or any cleaning solutions until
you know what the material is.
Examine the article looking at all four sides including all findings.
Next examine it using a loupe (ten power magnifying lens).
Note the color:
Color that is evenly distributed throughout the piece usually means
it's a synthetic product.
Color that has different zones, various shades, throughout the piece,
means it is most likely a natural product.
TOUCH
Each material has its own weight and temperature you can learn to
recognize:
For example, JET is very light weight in relation to its size or when
compared with another non-jet item of the same size.
Most NATURAL materials mined from the ground feel icy cold.
GLASS and PLASTICS are much warmer; they feel room temperature.
HEARING
Each material has its own sound or resonance you can learn to
recognize.
For example, Tapping together two pieces of most plastics gives off a
high pitched clicking sound but two pieces of BAKELITE gently knocked
together give off a deep clunk.
 
OTHER TESTS
Beyond using your senses there are additional
tests you can do. The goal is to identify your jewelry's material
without causing damage to the piece. Some of these additional tests
can mar your item; so be aware and be careful. Always test on an
inconspicuous place.
LEMON JUICE is one such "testing" solution which can cause
damage. When you place a drop of juice on shell or coral (except black
coral) and look at the item with a loupe, you will see tiny bubbles.
However, if the lemon juice is not immediately rinsed off with cool water,
it can etch (remove the finish) from the piece.
LEARNING MORE
The information above is to get you started.
There is more to learn and it is not difficult. With a little effort you
can correctly identify the materials in antique and vintage jewelry so you
can buy and sell with confidence
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